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How to clean a rusty tank

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alex2013
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 01 Jan 2013
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 06 Jan 2013    Post subject: How to clean a rusty tank Reply with quote

I have a "sort of" rusty tank, which was on a bike when I got it, when I drained out the tank it was rusty water/petrol that came out.

So far I've put bolts and screws basically anything that will hopefully loosen of some rust, placed a few magnets to hopefully attract fragments of rust

Is there a way of sealing it to stop it from rusting again?

Thanks
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 06 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pet seal apparently works well Thumbs Up
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mospeed
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 26 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 06 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/gastank.htm

This should help. Although there are other products also available.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 23:55 - 06 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phosphoric acid. I've done quite a few tanks with it now, search in the forum for phosphoric acid and you'll find my instructions somewhere.

Actually gets rids of rust, rather than just binding it into a layer of epoxy. Eats aluminium and rubber though.
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andym
World Chat Champion



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: 01:36 - 07 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

To make sure it's clean in the first place try a bit of electrolysis to remove the rust, then slap in some kreem (or other tank sealer)
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katana
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 07 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

POR15 tank kit.
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BTTD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Nov 2012
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 07 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done electrolysis on a small generator tank, same process as a bike tank. There's lots of info via youtube and google.
After that I filled the tank with sainsburys cola and let it sit for a week to disolve any crud left, then a small tin of POR15 tank sealer.
Tip - shove a whittled down stick/pencil/whatever up the breather tubes etc so they don't get blocked by the POR when you slosh it about. Pull em out when the tanks drying.
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Srengam
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 23 May 2012
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 07 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took my tank off, removed the fuel filter, took the tank to work in the car, and steam cleaned it (lowered to pressure a little on the jet washer to be on the safe side), just stuck the end of the pressure washer in the top and give it some welly.

It cleaned up fantastic, spotless, like a bran spanking new tank.
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



Joined: 02 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 07 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
...search in the forum for phosphoric acid and you'll find my instructions somewhere.

In my rebuild thread, no less: https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=2894513#2894513
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 07 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The POR15 kit is good, but the POR15 stuff itself is useless.

The key is to use the Marine clean, then Metal Ready, and only use the POR15 if there are holes. However, I've never managed to make it work.

I did it on my FZR400 tank, and I used Marine Clean, and then Metal ready which coats the inside of the tank in some sort of salt. I then rinsed it with clean water, and then old petrol.

On the RD tank, it was a different matter. I ended up with huge holes in the tank that could not be fixed even with the POR15.

Just buy a gallon of metal ready and a gallon of Marine clean.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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BTTD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Nov 2012
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 08 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay, interested that you couldn't get the POR15 stuff to work - what went wrong? Did it flake off or not set properly?

My tank wasn't holed, but had a shit ton of rust all over the inside. My process was rinsing out with hose pipe (to blast flakes off), electrolysis, rinsing, cola, thorough rinsing and an hour or so with a hair drying blowing hot air through the tank to dry it out.
Plugged up the holes and poured in the POR. Lots of rotating and sloshing about, pour out excess, unplug holes and leave to dry for a week.
It went off rock solid.
Mate at work used the same on his Fazer tank, but he did repair small holes first.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 08 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
MarJay, interested that you couldn't get the POR15 stuff to work - what went wrong? Did it flake off or not set properly?


Both. The holes in the tank weren't particularly large. Mostly pinholes, and the stuff didn't set very well. I just wasn't impressed overall.

My opinion on the matter is that if you've got no holes, try the marine clean and metal ready first. If you've got holes after that then you need to repair them properly, not try to use a tank liner.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 13 years, 22 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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