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Ripp3rCrust
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: K&N Filters Reply with quote

Will be doing a service in the near future on my bike, part of this being replacing the oil and air filter. Is it worth paying a few quid extra for K&N filters or should I just stick with cheaper stock stuff? Is their any particular advantage to the K&N products?

Cheers.
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Ja7
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think k+n pod filters, need setting up on a bandit, and it will never be right, run rough and have flat spots, it's the only thing on a bandit that should be left alone, save your money or better still, spend the money on iridium plugs.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd stay with OEM filters, the gain/prize ratio isn't really good if we talk about K&N products and as Ja7 mentioned the bike would need new jets Thumbs Down

+You can make your own filter out of the filter foam, I did and it's great the foam for 2 complete air filters costed about 2.50GBP Thumbs Up

A friend of mine had CB500 and put in it K&N air filter, tuned exhaust and muffler from Ixil, dynojet kit and some other bits and the bike was a beast BUT the power band was like a stairs Laughing
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Last edited by RhynoCZ on 21:54 - 04 Feb 2013; edited 1 time in total
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Drake
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

pods arent worth it on a b6, the total surface volume the carbs match the surface volume of the airbox. it is a common thing to do on a b12 due to the extra capacity and larger carbs
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have them on the bandit ,they are shiiiit. I wanna fit foam ones.
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd definately stick to OEM. I feel that changing the air filter is needlessly introducing potential problems that aren't needed and would cost you money.

Better to concentrate on keeping it running tip top in stock form such as checking the plugs, balancing carbs, valve clearances, oil changes and the likes.

Surely if a filter is letting through more air, it is likely letting through more rubbish too?

Any gains made from a K&N and rejet are going to be marginal and not really worth it.

Don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with modding a bike to get more power. Sticking in a K&N without anything else isn't really going to do it though.

Just make sure OEM filter is nice and clean.
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Cheeseybeaner
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Re: K&N Filters Reply with quote

Ripp3rCrust wrote:
Will be doing a service in the near future on my bike, part of this being replacing the oil and air filter. Is it worth paying a few quid extra for K&N filters or should I just stick with cheaper stock stuff? Is their any particular advantage to the K&N products?

Cheers.


If you get the 'standard replacement' ones to suit the stock airbox you won't need to re-jet the carbs (with stock or road legal exhaust), the advantage is that they don't need replacing ever and have comparatively long service intervals (you're supposed to re-oil them at something like 50k.)
Oh and the bike will breathe somewhat better too, for me the bike definitely felt 'better' with one fitted though it may be subjective! Nice intake sound...
For £30 against maybe £8-£10 every 6k (?) miles for a new standard/pattern filter you can see after a few miles you'll recover the purchase cost.
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Last edited by Cheeseybeaner on 22:42 - 03 Feb 2013; edited 1 time in total
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the_quick
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 03 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

K&N oil filter is bit easier to fit, as it has bolt on the top - in my bandit it helps a lot as a filter sits between down pipes.
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Re: K&N Filters Reply with quote

Cheeseybeaner wrote:
Ripp3rCrust wrote:
Will be doing a service in the near future on my bike, part of this being replacing the oil and air filter. Is it worth paying a few quid extra for K&N filters or should I just stick with cheaper stock stuff? Is their any particular advantage to the K&N products?

Cheers.


If you get the 'standard replacement' ones to suit the stock airbox you won't need to re-jet the carbs (with stock or road legal exhaust), the advantage is that they don't need replacing ever and have comparatively long service intervals (you're supposed to re-oil them at something like 50k.)
Oh and the bike will breathe somewhat better too, for me the bike definitely felt 'better' with one fitted though it may be subjective! Nice intake sound...
For £30 against maybe £8-£10 every 6k (?) miles for a new standard/pattern filter you can see after a few miles you'll recover the purchase cost.


What does "breathe better" actually mean.

It feels "better" because you are running it leaner than stock so more oxygen for a given volume of petrol.

The bike manufacturers have set up the bike to run with the stock air filter. If you want to change for aftermarket ones that let through air then I'd get it rejetted.
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Cheeseybeaner
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PostPosted: 00:31 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Re: K&N Filters Reply with quote

bluezedd wrote:


What does "breathe better" actually mean.

It feels "better" because you are running it leaner than stock so more oxygen for a given volume of petrol.

The bike manufacturers have set up the bike to run with the stock air filter. If you want to change for aftermarket ones that let through air then I'd get it rejetted.


The airbox fitted direct replacement types aren't intended to require re-jetting provided you're using a standard system or similar legal one.
The pod types do require rejetting as you're junking the airbox.
They're just less restrictive by design, allowing the engine to breathe more easily - better flow than the stock designs, simply leaning the bike up as you suggest wouldn't necessarily improve the feel let alone the performance. You definitely get a crisper feel to the throttle with the K&N, also it requires less servicing and is cheaper in the long run.
Don't take my word for it though!

https://www.knfilters.co.uk/filtercharger.aspx
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Last edited by Cheeseybeaner on 00:46 - 04 Feb 2013; edited 4 times in total
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andym
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had pod filters on the GPz for a bit (partly because I didn't want to fight putting the air box back on), I could never get it to run properly no matter what I done (didn't try rejetting though), eventually I used the heat gun on the airbox and forced it back into place and the bike ran fine again... total waste of money imo
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Cheeseybeaner
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PostPosted: 00:37 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

andym wrote:
I had pod filters on the GPz for a bit (partly because I didn't want to fight putting the air box back on), I could never get it to run properly no matter what I done (didn't try rejetting though), eventually I used the heat gun on the airbox and forced it back into place and the bike ran fine again... total waste of money imo


You need to re-jet with pod type filters as you're junking the airbox which completely changes the conditions.
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Ripp3rCrust
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies everyone, helped me to understand it all a little better. I still have a number of questions though! Laughing

I was unaware that it would be possible to fit one of the Pod-style filters to a bandit and will definitely give it a miss anyway now.
However with the flat ones that look similar to the OEM ones, I assume these just slot into place. Would these be compatible without having to do any configuration afterwards (such as rejetting carbs)? If so, do they give any additional performance? After reading on their website it seems that these types also allow additional air in so would this affect how lean it runs?

Another question, how do K&N oil filters differ from OEM ones?

Cheers.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah with K&N filters my bandit wouldnt rev over 5k. Wrapped each filter up with window fabric tape to choke it, and it ran really nicely.

So the prev owner thought they were a good idea (bikes not on the road, and ditching them asap).

As said, I'll be buying those 'pitbike' air filters with duel lots of foam.

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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:
Yeah with K&N filters my bandit wouldnt rev over 5k. Wrapped each filter up with window fabric tape to choke it, and it ran really nicely.

So the prev owner thought they were a good idea (bikes not on the road, and ditching them asap).

As said, I'll be buying those 'pitbike' air filters with duel lots of foam.

Thumbs Up


Hi, have you ever heard of rejetting?
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
mysterious_rider wrote:
Yeah with K&N filters my bandit wouldnt rev over 5k. Wrapped each filter up with window fabric tape to choke it, and it ran really nicely.

So the prev owner thought they were a good idea (bikes not on the road, and ditching them asap).

As said, I'll be buying those 'pitbike' air filters with duel lots of foam.

Thumbs Up


Hi, have you ever heard of rejetting?



Hi, I have but why when there's no need. Cheers!
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Cheeseybeaner
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 04 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ripp3rCrust wrote:
Thanks for the replies everyone, helped me to understand it all a little better. I still have a number of questions though! Laughing

I was unaware that it would be possible to fit one of the Pod-style filters to a bandit and will definitely give it a miss anyway now.
However with the flat ones that look similar to the OEM ones, I assume these just slot into place. Would these be compatible without having to do any configuration afterwards (such as rejetting carbs)? If so, do they give any additional performance? After reading on their website it seems that these types also allow additional air in so would this affect how lean it runs?

Another question, how do K&N oil filters differ from OEM ones?

Cheers.


The OEM replacement ones just pop straight into the airbox as is - no re-jetting required provided you have a standard exhaust. If you have a louder non road-legal can you may need to rejet.
I found the bike felt better in terms of throttle response generally, nice bit of intake noise also - they claim extra horses but I'd expect that would be more with an exhaust change also.
What I also like is the fact that they don't need to be replaced/cleaned so often as an OEM.
They don't lean up the mixture they just let the engine breathe more easily.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 02:33 - 05 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:
Hi, I have but why when there's no need. Cheers!


Herp. Derp. Herp.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 05 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:
Yeah with K&N filters my bandit wouldnt rev over 5k. Wrapped each filter up with window fabric tape to choke it, and it ran really nicely.

So the prev owner thought they were a good idea (bikes not on the road, and ditching them asap).

As said, I'll be buying those 'pitbike' air filters with duel lots of foam.

Thumbs Up


Just to make it clear to other persons on the forum who might copy this - NEVER EVER do the tape bodge. Rejet.

Besides strangling the motor and defeating the supposed purpose of individual filters, tape WHEN (not if) it falls off you will run terribly lean. If you want burnt valves, molten pistons and running like crap by all means use the tape.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 05 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
mysterious_rider wrote:
Yeah with K&N filters my bandit wouldnt rev over 5k. Wrapped each filter up with window fabric tape to choke it, and it ran really nicely.

So the prev owner thought they were a good idea (bikes not on the road, and ditching them asap).

As said, I'll be buying those 'pitbike' air filters with duel lots of foam.

Thumbs Up


Just to make it clear to other persons on the forum who might copy this - NEVER EVER do the tape bodge. Rejet.

Besides strangling the motor and defeating the supposed purpose of individual filters,tap when it falls off you will run terribly lean. If you want burnt valves, molten pistons and running like crap by all means use the tape.

Up to



Just to make it clear I did it as a test and it worked. Bike is sorn so I needed to know what to buy next. (aint being used)

better off running the standard airbox.

Taping up with breathable fabric tape won't burn out the valves, you just admitted running lean would, why would the filters suddenly fall off. Laughing

FYI though I ditched K&N style filters because mine went rusty. No point sucking rust into my engine, hence why I'm against using them.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 05 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:

Just to make it clear I did it as a test and it worked. Bike is sorn so I needed to know what to buy next. (aint being used)

better off running the standard airbox.

Taping up with breathable fabric tape won't burn out the valves, you just admitted running lean would, why would the filters suddenly fall off. Laughing

FYI though I ditched K&N style filters because mine went rusty. No point sucking rust into my engine, hence why I'm against using them.




Petrol vapour+glue=tape fall off. Tape fall off=run horrendously lean, horrendously lean=bad things happen to motor. Alles Klar?

I also advise against individual filters generally, but the above should never ever ever be used on a bike doing more than emergency mileages.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 05 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temeluchus wrote:
mysterious_rider wrote:

Just to make it clear I did it as a test and it worked. Bike is sorn so I needed to know what to buy next. (aint being used)

better off running the standard airbox.

Taping up with breathable fabric tape won't burn out the valves, you just admitted running lean would, why would the filters suddenly fall off. Laughing

FYI though I ditched K&N style filters because mine went rusty. No point sucking rust into my engine, hence why I'm against using them.




Petrol vapour+glue=tape fall off. Tape fall off=run horrendously lean, horrendously lean=bad things happen to motor. Alles Klar?

I also advise against individual filters generally, but the above should never ever ever be used on a bike doing more than emergency mileages.


Ahh I see where you're going, yeah that's cool I concur. Like I said though I needed to find out the cause of not being able to rev over 5k. Thumbs Up I wouldn't ride it like that.

I'm going to fit the double foam filters (pit bike style) and when the bikes on the road I'll do a plug chop test, I'm hoping I won't need to rejet, but I'll see what happens. I've already modified the exhaust quite a bit so chances are It'll need to be done.

cheers.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 05 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mysterious_rider wrote:


I'm going to fit the double foam filters (pit bike style) and when the bikes on the road I'll do a plug chop test, I'm hoping I won't need to rejet, but I'll see what happens. I've already modified the exhaust quite a bit so chances are It'll need to be done.

cheers.


What bike?

In my personal experience Pod filtering a few different bikes, you need a quite larger mainjet.
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mysterious_rider
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 05 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

bandit 600. not possible to run an airbox due to modifications.
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Cheeseybeaner
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 05 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whats the point of putting pod filters on if you can't be bothered rejetting! The whole point of scrapping the airbox and going that route is to gain a little performance isn't it? Surely you aren't going to get that otherwise and will sod up what was an otherwise good running bike?
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