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Do I need a new battery?

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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 20 Feb 2013    Post subject: Do I need a new battery? Reply with quote

Just tried to start my varadero, it started initially with full choke and quickly slide the choke in once it's fired up, left it to warm a bit but by the time I'd nipped back inside for my helmet it had cut out again (nothing new there)

Tried to re-start it and while it ran on tick over, it just died when applying throttle,

re-starting it flattened the battery.

It's been stood for about a week, outside with a cover on, prior to that, two days of a 40 min ride to, and then 40 min ride back someplace,
before that I had a flat battery after doing a service and checking timing and compression before a 20 min ride home.

So, is it just the cold weather and lack of riding or is it likely I need a new battery?

Cheers
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Benson_JV
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 20 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd give it a try with a charger first, no point buying another battery until you know this one is toast.
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Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 15:37 - 20 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My advice would be to charge it first.
If you can use a 'recovery' type charger such as Optimate/Accumate (there are others, wemoto do one for example).

My lad's Varadero battery has failed. He didn't really mention this, just a vague "it's iffy" comment. Turns out push starting it is a doddle. Place in 2nd gear, pull in clutch and run with it. then let clutch out and it should catch. Remember to pull clutch in and select neutral before putting on side stand. Also don't set off in 2nd as found it can stall.

He will be getting a new battery. When I put the power pack on it (effectively a 12v jump start battery) I was a bit concerned it would not start at all. Just a click from the solenoid. So crossing fingers starter not fubared. Hope yours isn't.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

SOunds like the battery is fecked or on it's way out.

It should be fully charged by the alternator after five or six miles running. Unless you run it in top gear all the way.

You could try charging but the battery should be good for more than six or seven long bursts of starting.

If you have a meter you can check it easy by measuring the 'open cell voltage' between the + and - posts. Stick it in top gear. Hold the rear bake Then crank the engine or hold the start button. The battery should hold 12 volts and not dive into single figures.
If it can hold at least ten volts for a few seconds then it is probably OK and only needs a good run.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
SOunds like the battery is fecked or on it's way out.

It should be fully charged by the alternator after five or six miles running. Unless you run it in top gear all the way.

You could try charging but the battery should be good for more than six or seven long bursts of starting.

If you have a meter you can check it easy by measuring the 'open cell voltage' between the + and - posts. Stick it in top gear. Hold the rear bake Then crank the engine or hold the start button. The battery should hold 12 volts and not dive into single figures.
If it can hold at least ten volts for a few seconds then it is probably OK and only needs a good run.


10mph bump start, trying both pulling the clutch in as it catches and attempting to apply throttle to ride away failed (was on the bike both times)

So, my guess is, either my alternator is borked and not charging the battery, or, more likely, the battery isn't accepting / holding charge.

I could find a bigger hill to bump it down, but I don't fancy pushing it back up the hill afterwards if it won't start.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly, thou shalt buy or order thyself a cheap digital multimeter.

Then get it out and (unless it's a magic gel one) have a look at the level of the electrolyte in the cells. There should be clearly marked min/max levels. If any are low, top them up using deionised water, which you should be able to get from a garage or many supermarkets.

Then try charging it with a decent charger. That'll cost you about the same as a new battery, but will be an investment that will stay with you from bike to bike.

If that recovers it, I'd suggest getting a solar trickle charger and wiring that up, especially if it's used occasionally or for short trips. You can get 500mV ones for ~£10 from eBay which are ideal.
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Last edited by Rogerborg on 12:00 - 21 Feb 2013; edited 1 time in total
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regulator/rectifier could have blown too (if you charge the battery and it still loses its charge, that is).
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snorty wrote:
Regulator/rectifier could have blown too (if you charge the battery and it still loses its charge, that is).


Worked out that it's been about a week since I last ran it, it only had one 20 mile trip, other than that, sat in the cold,

prior to that, two 20 mile trips a week before and again sat in the cold, over christmas it sat for about a month with a load of snow on top of the cover,

I think the battery has just given in to the cold.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, battery is inside overnight instead of out in the cold,

hoping that it'll have enough power in it for one attempt at starting.

failing that I have jump leads.

I need to know, I've jump started cars many times but never a bike.

Some people say you should have the car lights on when removing the leads so that it doesn't damage any relays or fuses, anything similar with bikes?


Is it ok to jump start a bike from a car? The car is standard 12 volts, the bike's battery says 12v so I'm assuming it's all ok?
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:
Right, battery is inside overnight instead of out in the cold,

hoping that it'll have enough power in it for one attempt at starting.

failing that I have jump leads.

I need to know, I've jump started cars many times but never a bike.

Some people say you should have the car lights on when removing the leads so that it doesn't damage any relays or fuses, anything similar with bikes?


Is it ok to jump start a bike from a car? The car is standard 12 volts, the bike's battery says 12v so I'm assuming it's all ok?


Do not turn the car on. Just jump straight from the car battery.

I've jump started many times from a car battery, stupidly I tried with the engine on once, luckily it only fried my main fuse on the bike.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you got a multi meter?

If so crank it over and see what happens to the voltage, below 10 its fecked.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Firstly, thou shalt buy or order thyself a cheap digital multimeter.

Then get it out and (unless it's a magic gel one) have a look at the level of the electrolyte in the cells. There should be clearly marked min/max levels. If any are low, top them up using deionised water, which you should be able to get from a garage or many supermarkets.

Then try charging it with a decent charger. That'll cost you about the same as a new battery, but will be an investment that will stay with you from bike to bike.

If that recovers it, I'd suggest getting a solar trickle charger and wiring that up, especially if it's used occasionally or for short trips. You can get 500mV ones for ~£10 from eBay which are ideal.



Have you STILL not bought a feckin AVO meter??? Shocked Rolling Eyes

Before worrying about charge you can also check if a 'wet' battery is fecked by checking the individual cell voltage.
Open the little caps so you can see into the 'water' (electrolyte).
Hold the Neg or Pos meter probe on the pos or neg post.
Stick/Dip the neg or pos probe (which ever you choose to use) into the electrolyte and read the meter. It should show two volts per cell. Less if flat. But record the reading. Move the probe from the post to the next 'cell' it should read the same as the first.#
Hop from cell to cell (6 in total 2 volts each makes a twelve volt battery) each cell should be near as dam the same voltage.
If one cell is very low the battery is kapoot. That cell is dead and will not hold a charge or will discharge it's guts at the first loading.
It will save you paphing about charging a Dead Horse.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can easily test the battery. Stick it on charge, until it indicates full. Discharge it with a small bulb, measure the current * voltage = power /12 * time = amps/hour.
Then do the opposite, charge it while measuring the rate (ideally 0.8A) * time = A/H.

Let it settle for a while between each. You shouldnt have any problems starting a bike if the battery measures over 2 A/H.

35 amps for half a second should start most fuel injected 600's .
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 21 Feb 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
You can easily test the battery. Stick it on charge, until it indicates full. Discharge it with a small bulb, measure the current * voltage = power /12 * time = amps/hour.
Then do the opposite, charge it while measuring the rate (ideally 0.8A) * time = A/H.

Let it settle for a while between each. You shouldnt have any problems starting a bike if the battery measures over 2 A/H.

35 amps for half a second should start most fuel injected 600's .


That would require buying a charger, testing it would require a multi-meter.

I don't have money to spare to buy either, so I've borrowed some jump leads.
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