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chain lubricant/oil ??

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redelmo
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 26 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: chain lubricant/oil ?? Reply with quote
Is there any specific chain lubricant i should use for a 125cc or are they all the same and 10/40 oil is there any make i should go for because other bike have had what oil to use. Sorry if this is a stupid question thanks all.
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jeddy11
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Joined: 06 Jul 2012
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Any oil will do for the chain- specific sprays or 3 in 1 or old engine oil think the key is to keep it reguly lubed and clean.

Engine oil should use a motorcycle specific as some of the car ones are rumoured to cause clutch slip and cooling issues but others say they use car oil !!

You can't go wrong with a specific chain lube and specific motorcycle oil though if your unsure.
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Varadero Viking YBR125>Varadero125>ER6F>Z1000SX !!!
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neil.
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
80 or 90w gear oil is a good choice, doesn't fling as much as engine oil and is generally recommended by the likes of Honda in their service manuals. Still works out cheap. Thumbs Up
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redelmo
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 26 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cheers for your replies will have a look how do i clean the chain becausei am being told to use white spirit or parrafin is this rite thanks again.
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ricklincs45
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 11 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Don't use car oil in your engine; it's generally not designed for high revving engines and it's not capable of withstanding the shearing forces of gear cogs etc (cars have separate gearboxes with separate oil).

A proper chain lube is the best thing to use on your chain; oil will just fling off and most likely go over your rear tyre.
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Author '80 Bikes, and counting...' Currently getting frustrated with an MZ 125 TS.
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blurredman
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Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
neil. wrote:
80 or 90w gear oil is a good choice, doesn't fling as much as engine oil and is generally recommended by the likes of Honda in their service manuals. Still works out cheap. Thumbs Up


All very well, and i'll take that advice on board, but I generally have a few gallons of used 10w/40, or 20w/50 oil lying about, but generally no gear oil Laughing
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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redelmo
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 26 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Sorry is this oil any good.
Check out this item I found on eBay: https://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251212558985

Chain lube
Check out this item I found on eBay: https://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=310604673138

Thanks again.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi

A few modern car oils can cause clutch issues, but most will be fine. But on a small bike the amount of oil used is so small the cost difference is nominal. So just comes down to the convenience.

For chains I tend to use old engine oil. Gearbox oil is recommended in a lot of workshop manuals, and no doubt will last longer than old engine oil. But it is an easy way to use up old engine oil! Chain lubes are also good, but tend to attract grit which becomes a nice grinding paste (old tends to fling off and take the grit with it). Chain lubes are also pigs to get off the wheels and the like.

ricklincs45 wrote:
Don't use car oil in your engine; it's generally not designed for high revving engines and it's not capable of withstanding the shearing forces of gear cogs etc (cars have separate gearboxes with separate oil).


I wouldn't worry too much about those. Some cars specify normal 10W40 for their gearboxes. And while bikes might rev higher, they are also putting out a LOT less torque hence a lot less force on various bearing faces, etc.

Used car oil in bikes loads of times.

All the best

Keith
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whitedevil
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Joined: 28 Nov 2010
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Paraffin is definitely the best choice for cleaning and its pretty cheep if you buy it in gallons. I have a chain saw so i use the chain saw chain oil on my chain which is also very cheep if you buy in gallons and has anti-flick off properties.
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ricklincs45
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Joined: 11 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
I wouldn't worry too much about those. Some cars specify normal 10W40 for their gearboxes. And while bikes might rev higher, they are also putting out a LOT less torque hence a lot less force on various bearing faces, etc.


Torque is only part of the issue. Most cars don't rev much beyond 6k; most modern bikes start producing their power at that point and then go on revving.

Even on a steady throttle, the action of the gears is producing far more wear and degradation on the oil than any other engine component. Basically, the molecules in the oil are being torn apart, reducing the oil's ability to lubricate and dissipate heat.
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redelmo
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 26 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thank you all massive help.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
ricklincs45 wrote:

Torque is only part of the issue. Most cars don't rev much beyond 6k; most modern bikes start producing their power at that point and then go on revving.


But is the revs of any real issue. It is the torque that is putting the pressure on things. Either way the bearings, etc, should be specced to cope with it.

A lot of bikes just specify a fairly low grade oil. For example in the Suzuki workshop manual for the 1200 Bandit they just specify 10W40 SF or SG oil (both fairly low specs). Nothing about bike specific oil.

ricklincs45 wrote:
Even on a steady throttle, the action of the gears is producing far more wear and degradation on the oil than any other engine component. Basically, the molecules in the oil are being torn apart, reducing the oil's ability to lubricate and dissipate heat.


And bike oil change intervals are fairly minimal compared to car ones. And there are cars that specify normal 10W40 for their separate gearboxes, with oil change intervals far in excess of their engine oil, let alone bike oil change intervals.

Would a bike oil possibly be better? May well be so. Will the rest of the bike last long enough for that benefit to become apparent? Very different question and personally something I would doubt.

The ZZR600 we has has done something around 60000 miles, much of it running on car oil. And unlike most other ZZR600s 2nd gear is still fine.

All the best

Keith
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ricklincs45
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 11 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
But is the revs of any real issue. It is the torque that is putting the pressure on things. Either way the bearings, etc, should be specced to cope with it.

A lot of bikes just specify a fairly low grade oil. For example in the Suzuki workshop manual for the 1200 Bandit they just specify 10W40 SF or SG oil (both fairly low specs). Nothing about bike specific oil.


This one could run and run Very Happy

Well, the more revs, the faster and more often a gear will bite through the oil simply because the gearbox shafts will be turning more quickly (compared to a car, for instance). This isn't so much of a problem for the bearings, as, like you say, they are generally well up to the job, though, how bearings interact with oil is different to how gear teeth interact with it.

Quite happy to accept that oil technology has improved since 'I were a lad', though I don't think I'll be rushing out to buy a gallon of Morrison's own-brand 20/50 any time soon Laughing
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Islander
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
+1 for the EP90 gear oil as a chain lube. It's very cheap, it doesn't fling and it does the job. Paraffin or diesel to clean the old crap off - use an old washing up brush or similar to work it in and scrub it. Top tip is to stick an old offcut of plywood or some cardboard between the chain and the wheel to stop the diesel from flicking over the tyre. Thumbs Up

Any decent semi synth 10W40 will do for the engine.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 02 Mar 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
ricklincs45 wrote:

Well, the more revs, the faster and more often a gear will bite through the oil simply because the gearbox shafts will be turning more quickly (compared to a car, for instance). This isn't so much of a problem for the bearings, as, like you say, they are generally well up to the job, though, how bearings interact with oil is different to how gear teeth interact with it.


Aye, but the only one that really applies to is the primary drive, as that is stepping the revs down by quite a bit for the rest of the gearbox. After that they are probably at similar revs.

Sure the gears give the oil a harder life, but then the oil is binned after maybe 6k max (and probably far less), rather than maybe triple that in a car. And even old Minis could cope with engine and gearbox oil shared with that kind of change interval.

All the best

Keith
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