Changing Bars

[wots]

My ER6 has some custom clip-on style bars.
https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/bars_115.jpg
I don't like them, they are a little low for me and far forward.

The bike came with the originals which I'm going to swap back to this weekend. Is there anything I need to consider when doing this?
As I'm going back to stock I'm thinking I won't have any cable routing issues. My only worry is grips, but as luck would have it, I have a brand new set of Keis grips (which appear to be the ones fitted) as the ones on there don't work. So I'm not worried about having to get them off. Controller works but nothing happens.

It looks to me as though everything unfastens and I just need to fasten onto the stock bars when they are in the right position and set switch positions accordingly.

Would this be right?
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Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[stinkwheel]

Yes. Unbolt the old ones, remove the switchgear, put it on the new ones, re-attach.

There will probably be dowels on the switchgear that locate in a hole in the handlebars but they could have been removed. When they fitted the custom bars, they'll have had to either drill a hole for them or remove the dowel.

Without the dowel, the switches may be a bit loose and able to rotate on the bar. Wrapping several layers of PVC tape round the bar under where they clamp on gives them enough to grip on in these circumstances.

It's usually pretty easy to get grips off if you need to providing they haven't been glued on with anything rediculous. I generally start to wiggle a screwdriver in between the grip and the bar from one end. As I go, I slide the straw from a can of WD40 in alongside it and squirt as I go. Once you've got to the end, pull the straw and screwdriver out and twist the grip back and forth. It should come right off with minimal effort.

To fit the new grips, clean and de-grease the bar where it's going, give the inside of the grip a good squirt of hairspray and slide it over. You've got a couple of minutes to fiddle it round top where you want it to. The hairspray is quite slippy while wet and allows movement but holds them firmly in place when dry.

You do not need to use glue on handgrips unless they are solid ones. As long as the bars and grips are clean and grease-free, hairspray does a fantastic job even for heated ones and allows easy removal in the future with the WD40 technique I described above.

I preferr firm hold, I'm undecided on the provitamin B5
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/drumbrake/DSCN0617.png
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[wots]

That makes sense as there are a couple of little holes in the standard bars (thought they were drain holes or something )

Glad I asked. Hairspray tip is helpful. Thanks
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Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[Casper]

If the bar height is the issue and not the looks why not just get risers for the fixing mount? saves lots of time and hassle as you are not fucking about with taking of levers and grips, switchgear.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=er6+bar+risers&_sacat=0&_from=R40

[wots]

[map]

[wots]

As above going back to original bars from non-standard and these have the locators in them.
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Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[Nexus Icon]

I like those clip on style bars.

If you want someone to take them off your hands
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Greetings from Shitsville!

[wots]

I'll let you know.

It depends how I feel when I put the original ones back on. I don't really have any desire to keep them.
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Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125

[stinkwheel]

[wots]

Either that or I could remove the bars altogether and swap it for a flight stick on the tank
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Currently: Yamaha DT 125 LC2,Repsol Fireblade, and Bumblebee MSX 125