Problem with YBR125 - possibly clutch?

[Nandonian]

Since I went from the CG to the YBR I've had a few issues, sorted most of them, but it feels strange to ride. Going 40, if I go full on the throttle the revs jump up but not power, then they drop down and I accelerate. It's like a lag and has a wheelspin feeling about it (I know it's not actually wheel spin but that's what the acceleration feels like).

I replaced the cushion drive and the sprocket seemed loose but it's not done much. I'm thinking it's something to do with the clutch possibly?

Has anybody had this happened on a bike, do you know what could be up with it?
____________________
Suzuki Katana AY50; Peugeot Jetforce C-Tech 05+06; Honda CG125 ; Yamaha YBR125; Aprilia RS125 FP; Lexmoto XTRS 125; Aprilia RS125 Race Replica; Aprilia RS125 Extrema FP; Seat Ibiza FR 1.9 TDI

[hondakawasaki]

hi

sounds like your clutch is slipping, does the bike scream for a few seconds before the clutch finally grips

my mates ybr has the same problem

get some new friction plates and springs and it will be sorted shouldn't cost no more than £30

[Nandonian]

[Pigeon]

The wheel will rotate with the clutch pulled in and the bike in gear just because of the movement of oil. You can easily check if you actually have sticking plates.

From cold. Leave engine off, clutch in, select 2nd gear, either try to rotate the rear wheel by hand or move the bike forwards with you on it. If you can move it freely and easily, not likely sticking plates.
If there is an initial small drag, then a click and then easy movement forward. Yes you have sticking plates, and you just unstuck them
Although they will likely stick again next time you stop and the bike cools.

You can also try to stop the rear wheel rotating with your boot when the engine is on and the clutch is in. If it's just natural momentum, you'll easily be able to stop the wheel. If its sticking clutch plates, it will nearly take your foot off
Which is why the first method is probably better.

[Nandonian]

[Pigeon]

I think slipping clutch (rising revs with no increase in actual speed) can be caused by:
- Using engine car oil, which has anti-friction additives.
- Too tight clutch cable (aim for about 2p coin thickness gap at end of clutch lever that pivots)
- Worn plates or springs
- Glazed plates

As usual, try the simple stuff first. Adjust cable, then oill change (bearing in mind if you buy new plates you'll want to save the new oil if its only a week old etc).

[Nandonian]

[Pigeon]

Yes, 24hrs in old engine oil.

[Nandonian]

I've adjusted the clutch lever and now the clutch isn't slipping, but now it has a ridiculous amount of play - enough for me to accidentally stall because it wouldn't engage at the lights

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77SkrICRpGk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

How can I adjust it?
____________________
Suzuki Katana AY50; Peugeot Jetforce C-Tech 05+06; Honda CG125 ; Yamaha YBR125; Aprilia RS125 FP; Lexmoto XTRS 125; Aprilia RS125 Race Replica; Aprilia RS125 Extrema FP; Seat Ibiza FR 1.9 TDI

[Mark65]

Odd, when I changed my cable I just set everything at halfway then connected it up, only needed a tweak to get the play.
Is the clutch arm on the casing sticking?, pull it right back and mark it and the casing then connect it up and set cable, pull lever and see if marks line up again when you release the lever, it should go back.
What about the clutch cable is it sticking in the outer sleeve?(frayed maybe inside).
Mark
____________________
07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650

[ian505050]

If the clutch is not slipping but the lever has massive play, remember that sometime the cables can be adjustable on both ends.


My bro was driving his dirt bike with a slipping clutch for ages until i adjusted the clutch cable at the engine end.