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stranger12
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 28 May 2013    Post subject: next steps in my riding career Reply with quote

ok i am now back in the track and have decided to keep my lovely sv for now

what do you guys suggest or did do when you were at my stage to gain skills etc apart from just riding back and forth

currently i am ok on maintaining bike balance etc but want to move on and be a better rider . have a skill in turning and be brave
for whatever reason i think it is very dangerous to go over 100 miles etc thinking the wheel comes off or i am somehow gonna die

so my next steps is track days as people seem to suggest school is waste of money . i was thinking of going to california school

while on the topic, do you guys open the throttle while turning ? i have seen videos of bike rear tyre drifts thus dropping you if you do not know how to control it . i guess if that happens you shouldn't in a sudden action shut the throttle as this makes it worse and you loose all traction but simply slowly close the throttle


i also tend to use the following combination of braking

dry :80%front 20% rear
raind: either 80% front 20 rear or 30 rear 70 front


is thatgood?

i did manage to spin the rear wheel up today in the rain and kick the tail out while accelerating Very Happy
this is despite me knowing that rain and full throttle can be enemies
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 28 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Generally speaking, you get all of your braking and gear changing done before you turn into a bend or corner, then keep a neutral throttle through it (neither slowing not accelerating) then gently roll the throttle on as you come out of it.

Braking should be approx 75% front 25% rear with the front leading in the dry and approx 50% front 50% rear in the wet. Brake progressively - don't snatch them and they shouldn't lock under good conditions. The percentages are only a guideline and experience will show you what's best for your bike.

The overall trick is to be smooth - no sudden turns, don't snatch the throttle open and don't snatch the brakes.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 28 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Generally speaking, you get all of your braking and gear changing done before you turn into a bend or corner, then keep a neutral throttle through it (neither slowing not accelerating) then gently roll the throttle on as you come out of it.

Braking should be approx 75% front 25% rear with the front leading in the dry and approx 50% front 50% rear in the wet. Brake progressively - don't snatch them and they shouldn't lock under good conditions. The percentages are only a guideline and experience will show you what's best for your bike.

The overall trick is to be smooth - no sudden turns, don't snatch the throttle open and don't snatch the brakes.


You're supposed to gently roll on the throttle as soon as the turn in is complete, at least that is what they teach on the California Superbike School. It's the only way to keep the correct weight balance on the front and rear tyres (the rear tyre being wider than the front).

"Once the throttle is cracked open it is rolled on evenly smoothly and constantly throughout the turn"

This is what Keith Code calls "Throttle control rule number 1". Every time I think of it I can't help but remember those damn kids repeating it over and over again on that stupid yet extremely useful DVD.
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Last edited by MarJay on 22:18 - 28 May 2013; edited 1 time in total
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G
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 28 May 2013    Post subject: Re: next steps in my riding career Reply with quote

Get yourself a copy of "twist of the wrist II" - read it cover to cover, then go back and practice section at a time.

On track the idea is to get on the power as early as possible and be continually feeding the throttle in so the tyre is always right at the limit of traction.

Reality for most is we start opening it up gently, then when we feel brave whack it open.

Same for braking but the reverse - slowly release the brake as you are tipping it in.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 28 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:


You're supposed to gently roll on the throttle as soon as the turn in is complete, at least that is what they teach on the California Superbike School. It's the only way to keep the correct weight balance on the front and rear tyres (the rear tyre being wider than the front).

"Once the throttle is cracked open it is rolled on evenly smoothly and constantly throughout the turn"

This is what Keith Code calls "Throttle control rule number 1". Every time I think of it I can't help but remember those damn kids repeating it over and over again on that stupid yet extremely useful DVD.


That's new to me and I'm not sure I agree with it - I certainly wouldn't want to use it on the roads up here given the crap you're likely to come across on an apex. But again, the key is smooth and that I can agree with. Thumbs Up
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G
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 28 May 2013    Post subject: Re: next steps in my riding career Reply with quote

Also - 100% braking from the front unless your front brakes are cack.
Possibly some rear in adverse conditions, but engine braking on a SV isn't too bad

If they are good brakes, then maximum braking occurs as the rear is just about to lift off the tarmac. At this point, the rear brake's not going to have much use.
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 28 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's only two situations to be in, on the throttle or braking, never use the back brake because it is useless if your wheel isn't on the road. As for spinning it up and drifting it out of corners this is good and should be practised more.
Brake right into the apex then crack the throttle and control the drift, don't shut the throttle if it starts getting away from you cos you will high side or if you are very lucky catch it on your knee.
Or just go do a trackday, get an instructor to show you the line and just try and enjoy it, no need to go to Califorinia Superbike school, go to a Cadwell Park MSV day or evening and pick up what you can, riding is 75% instintictive and reading a book won't teach you what I think you want to know, there's no substitute for doing.

OGR
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 00:54 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old Git Racing wrote:
There's only two situations to be in, on the throttle or braking, never use the back brake because it is useless if your wheel isn't on the road. As for spinning it up and drifting it out of corners this is good and should be practised more.
Brake right into the apex then crack the throttle and control the drift, don't shut the throttle if it starts getting away from you cos you will high side or if you are very lucky catch it on your knee.
Or just go do a trackday, get an instructor to show you the line and just try and enjoy it, no need to go to Califorinia Superbike school, go to a Cadwell Park MSV day or evening and pick up what you can, riding is 75% instintictive and reading a book won't teach you what I think you want to know, there's no substitute for doing.

OGR


why do you think spining the rear wheel and drift is good, wouldn't that just drop the bike and out of control .
or is it that the more you do it the more prepared you are for unexpected situation ?
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 07:42 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was meant to be a bit tongue in cheek, don't do it really, you will most likely fall off.

OGR
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 07:56 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

After pulling a 6ft skid during an emergency stop practice the day before my mod 1 (instructor was quite impressed by my releasing and re-applying the brake) I was told in wet conditions to bring the back brake in slightly before the front so that it's already braking before the front brake is properly biting.

The reason for this he said, was to transfer some of the bike's weight forwards to lessen the likelyhood of a rear skid.

I've not skidded since despite some of the crap driving that happens around here.

with regards to throttle coming out of a corner,

"don't accelerate if you might have to come off the throttle again, wait until you can see the exit to the corner is clear, then you can accelerate as you know you won't have to slow again. As you accelerate let the bike start to stand up.

This was with regards to riding smoothly on the road - I've no interest on going on the track.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you transfer weight forwards then you're reducing the weight on the rear wheel, reducing its grip and hence increasing the likelihood of a rear wheel skid. Wink
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

i love this forum.
when you post 2 mins later 100 replies , bunch of lovely people Very Happy

Back to topic, i will get the book as it seemed to have good reviews etc which is very good


one thing though, i have seen people doing stopie( tail comming up as they brake) . i guess that needs you to intentionally press the brake hard so it comes up

i have noticed that when i press the front slightly hard the tail is about to come up and also throw me over . i don't know how those people stay on the bike
i am 21 st but still will be thrown forward even when the rear isn't up just the suspension has expanded all the way.
do i need one of those tank things which is a little rubber preventing me from sliding on it thus being throwed over ?
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:

The reason for this he said, was to transfer some of the bike's weight forwards to lessen the likelyhood of a rear skid.

.


The above makes no sense. if you think about it, shifting weight forward actually increases the chance of the rear locking up as it has less load on it.
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G
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PostPosted: 10:38 - 29 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, just brake harder and harder to do a stoppy.
Go a bit at a time until you're used to being on one wheel.

Braking effort has to be reduced to sustain a stoppy in mid air, so if you don't go over the front when braking really hard, you shouldn't for a stoppy - it's just like braking going down a hill.

Doing one handed stoppies it is worth gripping the tank with your knees as I've found - other wise you can slide forward into the tank and, which isn't exactly the feeling you want while trying to control a bike in the air with one hand Smile.
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TheRevr
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Re: next steps in my riding career Reply with quote

what do you guys suggest or did do when you were at my stage to gain skills etc apart from just riding back and forth

Have you seen these rider video's there's a series of 10?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGkGb8FU4lg

there's also a website that gives links to bikesafe and enhanced rider training...

https://www.twistandride.net

at first you think - what the hells going on, then you get it.

I've booked bikesafe as a few have recommended it.
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Enduro Numpty
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

The short answer is there's no substitute for experience so riding back and forth is part of the learning curve. That said, take good advice where it's offered and learn from experienced riders.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steady on there, you've been riding this bike for 5 minutes, wanted an R6 because it wasn't quick enough and now you're 'doing stoppies' (you're not, the suspension is compressing and lifting the rear of the bike, not the rear wheel).

How about riding it and learning how it rides and go from there, practice is everything.
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fox
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can find the full version of Twist on Youtube here
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 30 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:

That's new to me and I'm not sure I agree with it - I certainly wouldn't want to use it on the roads up here given the crap you're likely to come across on an apex. But again, the key is smooth and that I can agree with. Thumbs Up


Well I'm sure you've got more riding experience than Keith Code and Andy Ibbott, and all of the instructors at the California Superbike School! Wink

Seriously though, their argument is that the rear tyre is wider than the front, and so you want to keep the weight shift so it is favouring the rear tyre, otherwise you're overloading the front end and are more likely to lowside. Modern bikes with wider rear tyres are designed to be ridden on the gas. I'm not talking about whacking open the throttle all the way, I'm talking about turning in then cracking the throttle and progressively opening it throughout the turn.

It works, I've tried it and I'm sold. If you don't believe me then watch the A Twist Of The Wrist DVD on Youtube, that'll convince you if I cannot.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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stranger12
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 03 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

what is the point of doing california bike school stage 1 to 4 each at £400 when you can get the book for £10 and have a free dvd of it ? i guess california bike school is based on keith code priciple thus really don't know why someone would go to those school unless they have a lot of spare money which i can help them spend it Very Happy
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 03 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stranger12 wrote:
what is the point of doing california bike school stage 1 to 4 each at £400 when you can get the book for £10 and have a free dvd of it ? i guess california bike school is based on keith code priciple thus really don't know why someone would go to those school unless they have a lot of spare money which i can help them spend it Very Happy


The California Superbike school is a bit more in depth than the book and DVD. The DVD really only covers level 1, and the book can't correct you where you're going wrong.

The level 1 school I did made a massive difference to my riding.
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