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Changing fork seals - how to lift front end?

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jimmyd
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 15 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 08:38 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Changing fork seals - how to lift front end? Reply with quote

Any tips on how to get the front of the bike up safely so I can do the fork seals?

I have a front paddock stand but it fits to the bottom of the forks, which isn't going to help if I'm taking them out..!

I don't have a garage/winch/anything, driveway only Sad
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supZ
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PostPosted: 08:43 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you have no way to pull the front up (rafters in garage or the like) then your only real option is to buy another front stand. - a headstock stand

https://www.ghostbikes.com/products/accessories-bike-stands/10051-biketek-red-front-steering-head-stand-and-pins.html

you could try rigging something up to push the headstock up using wood etc.. but it won't be stable
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 08:45 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bike?
I assume it doesn't have a center stand?

First offer is axle stands or a pile of bricks under the foot pegs.
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supZ
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
What bike?
I assume it doesn't have a center stand?


that's a good point.

if it has a centre stand (or you can lift the middle on bricks as mentioned or something) you could lob a bag of cement or something on the back of it and lift the front up.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above, axle stands or concrete blocks under the footpegs makes a good stable stand as a temporary solution. Check to see if the pegs are hinged first though! Someone on here suggested reversing the pegs to lock them if this was the case.

Long term solution? Treat yourself to an ABBA stand - no more paddock stand gymnastics, simple single person operation and it's very very stable. It's good for both front and rear - you can just chock the bike up under the header pipes with blocks of wood or similar if you need the front off the ground. Thumbs Up
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another option is an Abba stand or equivalent, which acts like a centre stand when you don't have one.

Once it's hoisted on that, you can tie down the rear to lift the front.

There is an Abba stand attachment which lifts the front up, but it's not really necessary if you have a luggage strap or similar and a couple of solid points to attach it.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i did my cg seals, put the bike on center stand an put 3 cases of strongbow on the seat

bike didn't more,

you cant much ghetto than that
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Islander
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mudcow007 wrote:
when i did my cg seals, put the bike on center stand an put 3 cases of strongbow on the seat

bike didn't more,

you cant much ghetto than that


Yes but what happened when you drank your way through the Strongbow though? Razz

You did say ghetto didn't you?
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stickybackbob
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 23 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do mine by putting the side stand (none of my bikes has a centre stand) on a brick so the bike stands more upright, then put a trolley or bottle jack under the frame on the opposite side to lift. If I'm not feeling brave, I replace the jack with bricks or an axle stand.
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moppy
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Axle stand under the crash bungs is how I did it.
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andym
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just used a trolley jack and piece of wood last time I done mine:

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/andy36586/forksremoved_zps635ade0e.jpg
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jimmyd
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 15 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all Smile good ideas. Thinking about your suggestions and the things I have, I think i can use the front paddock stand to lift the bike straight (yep, no centre stand), then put bricks under where the engine is, lower it back down and go from there.

Now to read as many guides as I can on replacing the seals themselves....!
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moppy
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's all a bit overwhelming, it's usually only an hours labour if you take the legs in to a decent mechanic. Got mine done for 30 quid
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jimmyd
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 15 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

moppy wrote:
If it's all a bit overwhelming, it's usually only an hours labour if you take the legs in to a decent mechanic. Got mine done for 30 quid


Hmm, got quoted £40 per leg if I bought them in by my local place... not going there then!
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stickybackbob
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 23 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 12 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's an easy enough job. Just remember to loosen (not remove) the top caps whilst the forks are still in the yokes. You may need to undo the top pinch bolts to allow this.

Next, use a good fitting tool on the damper bolt at the bottom of the forks. You may need to give it a sharp tap but don't round it off.

Getting the seals out shouldn't be difficult but try not to chew them up as you can use them again to knock the new seals into place.

Depending on the type of forks you have, the stanchion may need to be in the fork leg before fitting the new seal. If this is the case, use a bit of a plastic bag over the top of the stanchion so that there are no sharp edges to rip the new seal as you slide it over.

Do the job yourself and you'll be satisfied, have some beer money and you'll know your bike that little bit better Smile
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 04:03 - 13 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

stickybackbob wrote:


Do the job yourself and you'll be satisfied, have some beer money and you'll know your bike that little bit better Smile



Ahh SBB you optimist, what a very rosy picture you paint. Reality tends to be a little different for the budding DIYer.

Do the job yourself and you'l have bruises and cuts, be ready to strangle kittens and have to pay someone to do it properly in a few days time.
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stickybackbob
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PostPosted: 09:26 - 13 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:

Ahh SBB you optimist, what a very rosy picture you paint. Reality tends to be a little different for the budding DIYer.

Do the job yourself and you'l have bruises and cuts, be ready to strangle kittens and have to pay someone to do it properly in a few days time.


Bruises, cuts and kitten killing is part of the rite of passage from DIYer to 'the bloke that can' Yeah, it's an optimistic view but come on, it's not that hard a job to do and we all started somewhere. Besides that, the world is a much better place if your glass is half full Smile
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andym
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 13 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've said it before and I'll say it again, if you know the forks are ok internally there is no need to remove the stanchion.

Remove the forks, remove the spring, tip the whole front wheel and forks upside down to remove the old oil, punch the old seal with a screwdriver and lever it out, use the old seal to push the new one into place, use a measuring tape rather than jug to replace the oil and reassemble.

Rounded bolts = 0
Time to complete = 45 minutes (even if you haven't got a clue what you're doing)

So far I've used this method on all of my bikes (intruder, diversion, GPz, zxr), and I imagine if I was to try it on the VFR it would be just as easy
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 13 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did the Fazers by putting on the centre stand and propping the front end up with 2x 2x4 bits of wood.

Failing that put on centre stand and get someone to sit on the bike.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 13 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a manual for your bike, watch a few videos on you tube, get all the pieces together that you will need, then have a go. The worst that can happen is you end up taking them to the mechanic for £40 a leg.

Mine were a cunt to do as the bottom bolt wouldn't undo and due to corrosion the seals had welded themselves in. Took me a few days to get it done and I did take it to a local guy to get he bottom bolts out (even he struggled) but he cost £20 for both.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 13 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

janner_10 wrote:
Failing that put on centre stand and get someone to sit on the bike.

His bike ain't got a centre stand.
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 13 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raffles wrote:
janner_10 wrote:
Failing that put on centre stand and get someone to sit on the bike.

His bike ain't got a centre stand.


Good point!
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jimbob005
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PostPosted: 07:51 - 14 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

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