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Removing seized engine mount bolt.

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R1stu
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Joined: 12 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: 04:47 - 22 Jul 2013    Post subject: Removing seized engine mount bolt. Reply with quote

Ive been trying unsuccessfully to remove the front engine bolt from the nee 350 engine ive got.

I had to cut the engine from the frame to get it out and I have been left with the engine with the front engine mount bolt still in the engine.

It is just one long piece of threaded rod. No nuts on either end. I have had to dremmle off one side as the engine mount had snapped off. Now Ive been putting wd40 on it for a few days now, and ive used a wire brush to remove as much corrosion as possible.

Ive also tried a blow torch and hammer, as well as two nuts locked against each other.

HELP!!!
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 05:47 - 22 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

PlusGas might be better than WD40 - worth a try anyway.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 07:52 - 22 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cut some tube (or turn some on a lathe) that fits over the stud leaving enough thread to just get a nut on. Wind the nut down and it should pull it through. Then make a slightly longer bit of tube and repeat (piles of washers will work as well).
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SQL
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 22 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

drill the engine mount with a very small pilot hole fill with plusgas/acf50/snakeoil and 2-3 hits later it will be out.
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cb1rocket
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Joined: 30 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 22 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

SQL wrote:
drill the engine mount with a very small pilot hole fill with plusgas/acf50/snakeoil and 2-3 hits later it will be out.



drill it exactly how?
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 22 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 50:50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and paraffin makes an excellent penetrating oil.

Hot oil is also good if you can turn it on its side and pour it into the bit you are worried about.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 22 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definetly get yourself some plusgas.

I had a stuck bolt in a fairing frame I replaced a couple of weeks back, my friend held it under a blowtorch for a good minute or two and then we caked it in plusgas and two minutes later it was finger tight at most.
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R1stu
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Joined: 12 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 22 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ill pop to shop and grab a tin tomorrow.
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CG Sam
Crazy Courier



Joined: 08 Apr 2013
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 23 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just get a pair of water pump pliers and turn, can be hard work but it hasn't failed me yet.
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Ed Case
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Joined: 01 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 24 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

As SQL says, drill it out starting with a small 'pilot' drill and increasing sizes as you go, yes I know it's a pain in the ass but it's the safest method. CB250RS's suffer from this exactly, all the road shit and salt in the winter hits there and electrolytic action damn' near welds the steel (?) and alloy (?) together. Don't continue beating the thing with a hammer as it's very easy to knock the entire 'boss' off the crankcase taking a big lump of 'case with it. Levering like buggery with a long pole, scaffold pipe etc can produce the same result. Drill it out, I've been there, I've done it !. Best of luck !.
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