General Q's

[Shreeve]

New rider here, passed my CBT mid July and bought a 2011 CBF 125 immediately.

Clocked up 300 miles so far, riding most days after work and on the weekends, just locally at the moment as i tend to get lost quite easily

Just a few questions that have occured to me over the last few weeks:

1) I was in 5th gear and just got up to 60mph, all of a sudden the bike seemed to lose a bit of power and went down to 50mph despite no movement in throttle, no increase in incline or headwind. It has only happened once, apart from that the bike runs smoothly. Any ideas why?

2) When you apply ACF50 do you just spray it straight onto the bike and take no mercy? I went back to it after an hour to find a big pool of the stuff settled underneath the bike (that stuff just doesn't want to budge).

3) Is it possible to adjust the rear brake lever? It doesn't have the traditional lock nut that you just screw. It has a nut at the back of the connecting rod (no idea what it's called) that adjusts the slack of the pedal and that's it. Any ideas? (have searched for the answer to this to no avail)

4) What the hell do you do with the build up of chain lube in the chain guard? just get the thick of it out and degrease it with something? What do you use? Just cleaned/lubed the chain today and i swear shit was growing in it...

5) Generally, do you just use warm soapy water to clean fairings and general muck off the bike?


I think that's it, had the bike for less than a month and already wanting a bigger one (Triumph Street Triple), this 'hobby' is clearly a bottomless pit for the old bank balance

Great fun so far though! Cheers.
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Current: Suzuki GSX650F (2010), Suzuki GSXR1000 K7, Suzuki GS250T (1980) currently restoring: Clicky.
Previous: Honda CBF 125 (2011), Suzuki GSXR750 K4

[deadwolf]

I'm by no means an expert but here's my thoughts:

1) Ran low on fuel? Did you try downshifting?

2) Can't say, not used it myself yet.

3) Don't know.

4) I used SDOC100, it's expensive but pretty effective. Unscrew and remove chain guard before applying so that it gets to all the crap on the underside.

5) Warm soapy water's fine. I used cold water, fine as well. The important bit is drying the bike off properly with chamois/etc to prevent unsightly marks left by the water. If you want showroom quality finish, you'll need to start looking into polish/wax and the whole shebang.
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Motorsapien Art

[c_dug]

Generally with acf50 you wipe it on to get an even coating.
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[-Matt-]

Hi

1] Maybe you just hit a bump in the road or something if it was just the one off I'd think 60 is up near if not on the top speed of the bike so wouldn't take much for it to drop off, just a guess though - if it started happening more regularly maybe its a fueling issue

2] Sounds like you put a bit too much on - ACF goes a long way, i do tend to spray mine from the can but don't go wild with it, you can also spray a load into a rag and give it a wipe on, especially good for getting it in and around nooks and corners.

3] Not sure on this one in the case of your bike sorry

4] I remove the guard and use an old large flat-head screw driver [don't use it anymore] to scrape it all off, then some degreaser on the last bit. I wouldn't bother trying to get it sparkling clean though it'll be mucked up again in 5 minutes

5] I use muc-off bike cleaning range, theres plenty of other brands, some a bit cheaper but muc-off are very good from my own experience and quite a few others. I'd be cautious using soaps/car shampoos many have additives and chemicals added that aren't good for a lot of bike fairings and finishes. They won't melt and break the bike by any means, but if you want to keep it looking pristine they're not a good idea. Especially if you have anything powdercoated/aftermarket painted etc.

HTH

[Shreeve]

Cheers for the responses chaps!

Gonna run the bike down to a local bike shop and ask them about the rear brake lever.
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Current: Suzuki GSX650F (2010), Suzuki GSXR1000 K7, Suzuki GS250T (1980) currently restoring: Clicky.
Previous: Honda CBF 125 (2011), Suzuki GSXR750 K4

[lukamon]

adjusting drum brakes is easy. on the end of the lever attached to the rear drum is a big (length, not spanner size) nut on a pretty long thread. this rotates in half - turn steps, unless you have strong fingers you may need a spanner. turn the nut in while spinning the wheel by hand. you should start to hear a rubbing roise as the wheel spins, back the nut off until the first step where you cant hear any rubbing. job done.
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killa wrote: Im an ass man myself

[Shreeve]

Yeh that's the one that adjusts the slack, the problem is i'm 6"2 and when it's adjusted to the most extreme point (no slack in the lever) it's still uncomfortable
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Current: Suzuki GSX650F (2010), Suzuki GSXR1000 K7, Suzuki GS250T (1980) currently restoring: Clicky.
Previous: Honda CBF 125 (2011), Suzuki GSXR750 K4

[metalangel]

[Shreeve]

Above, the instructor from my CBT stressed to always be covering the brakes and it planted a bit of a seed.
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Current: Suzuki GSX650F (2010), Suzuki GSXR1000 K7, Suzuki GS250T (1980) currently restoring: Clicky.
Previous: Honda CBF 125 (2011), Suzuki GSXR750 K4

[metalangel]

Don't do that. Once I was out on the road doing lessons, with the same instructor as my CBT, I was told not to. I had tried to make it a habit myself, and the result was as my muscles got tired holding my foot just above the pedal (bigger bike, but I'm the same height as you) it would imperceptibly drift down and start to apply the rear brake.

When we stopped for a break, the instructor observed that I'd been braking for the last several miles. I responded that the bike hadn't been performing any differently, so he conceded it might have just been enough to make the light come on.

Regardless, all you're going to do is wear your brakes out and maybe overheat them for when you really need them.

Just rest your foot on the peg, point it out to the side and there is a position you'll find that it rests comfortably sort of against the side of the pedal. Getting your foot back onto the pedal when you need to brake is extremely quick, don't worry about it.
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Previous: 2002 Honda CB500 (sold), 2007 Suzuki SV650SK6 (crashed), 2005 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer (sold). Currently bikeless
"A faired bike will get you 10x more clunge than a unfaired one." -Marlboro Matt

[Shreeve]

[DrSnoosnoo]

When I was learning I thought I was covering the rear brake but I had it enough to put the brake light on. I'm 6'2" on a ZZR600 which is a bit cramped but ok. There's no way I could sit with my foot hovering over the brake pedal. I point my toe outwards, or put my toes on the pegs
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I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[FiBob]

I'm a short ass compared to you tall blokes, but even I sit with my toes on the peg - it is remarkable how quickly you can get your foot in position to use the brake when you need to

[Baffler186]

1) 60 is at the top end of this bike's capabilities, it only takes a slight bit of wind or incline to drop it back to 50. If you are sure there was none of the above then possibly a fuel pump or injector issue, but if it was a one-off it could have been just a bit of dirt in the fuel. The later (2010 on) models commonly had problems with the FI or fuel pump, but I wouldn't rush out and buy new parts unless it keeps happening.

2) ACF50 - apply sparingly as a) it's expensive and b) it goes a long way. Rub over it with a rag, enough to wipe away any excess but not too hard to rub away all that you've just sprayed on! I also spray a bit onto my fingers and apply as less gets absorbed that way compared to using a rag.

3) Should have just a single nut at the rear, on a long thread. Adjust this until it's tightish on the lever but not so it's rubbing - spin the wheel to check this. Depending on age/wear of the rear drum you could get it checked out or look on youtube to see how to check this yourself if you're confident enough.

4) Take off the chain guard (3 bolts) and give that a clean with soapy water. Clean chain with a toothbrush and liberal squirtings of WD40 or cheap substitute. Put cardboard behind chain to prevent any going on your tyres. When chain is clean, re-lubricate with whatever you've got. Some use old sump oil, others use WD, but if in doubt buy some branded spray lube - do it at night and leave over night to set off a bit, otherwise it will fly off if you ride right away. In summary never use a de-greaser to clean chains. The shitty build up is common but shouldn't build up to that extent if you clean and lube often enough. Greases are ok for lubing chains but being more tacky they tend to collect road dirt and dust which can then turn into an abrasvive.

5) Fairings = plastic; soapy water or use some of that halfords car shampoo you get every year for Christmas.

[Ribenapigeon]

I just spray ACF50 into the cap then use a paintbrush to dab it onto vulnerable areas, then I treat the bike with it

[Marmalade]

Don't worry about getting lost. This is how you will learn your way around.

When I was 16 I just rode, miles and miles and then found my way home eventually.
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[CG Sam]