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New exhaust rings - silicon sealant

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colink98
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: New exhaust rings - silicon sealant Reply with quote

my exhaust is making some noise again and i have ordered a set of new rings and studs (as the studs where a mess).

i recall giving everything a good clean last time around and was not overly impressed with the exhaust headers (if that's the right name).

is it good, bad or ugly to run a smear of silicon over the new exhaust rings to aid with a decent seal ?

i have read its OK to use silicon to seal other joins of the exhaust
I'm just not sure about so close to the engine.

Cheers
C.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not know but I wouldn't have thought silicone could handle the 800+ degree temps of an exhaust.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used bathroom silicone around end cans and link pipes, might survive around a head-downpipe gasket but it shouldn't be required fi you are using nice new gaskets.

I've had better experiences with the copper ring gaskets over the fibre/aluminium versions.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've not tried using it at the head, but await stinkwheel's pronouncement with interest.
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Baffler186
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most high temp silicone I have seen is good up to 3 or 400 degrees C. I wouldn't have thought that is enough. Some people have used normal silicone on end cans etc but when I tried it on one of my old bikes it started to burn and turn into crisps within a couple of weeks. I would not do it myself unless you can find silicone that's resistant up to 8 million degrees and specifically deigned for the job.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good gasket fitment and properly tightened bolts are sufficient 👍

No reason to mess it up with silicone that will burn and drop off within hours.

If your gaskets are shit - a touch of instant gasket around the OUTER edges before closing and tightening the bolts will help.

Silicon = no Smile
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hawkeye1250FA wrote:
a touch of instant gasket around the OUTER edges before closing and tightening the bolts will help.

Silicon = no Smile

https://i.imgur.com/oFk0B3N.png
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Baffler186 wrote:
Most high temp silicone I have seen is good up to 3 or 400 degrees C. I wouldn't have thought that is enough. Some people have used normal silicone on end cans etc but when I tried it on one of my old bikes it started to burn and turn into crisps within a couple of weeks. I would not do it myself unless you can find silicone that's resistant up to 8 million degrees and specifically deigned for the job.


I remember Aga (Auld fashioned stove makers) use High temp silicone to glue the fire ring rope stuff into the lids of the hotplates. (The stoves rely on detailed energy conservationa and rope prevents heat escaping.) The hottest plate was way over 500°C.

3M make stuff that goes into orbit.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-High-Temperature-Sealant-1137/?N=5002385+3291796008&rt=rud

There are 3M products that are sold in smaller quantities too.

Google 3M high temp silicone.

OP The other issue is, why do you need to add a sealant? Unless the surfaces are compromised the own gasket should be all that's required.
Maybe the faces of the zost are mis-aligned warped.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used plumbers silicone on the header of my air coooled enfield. However hot that gets.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Hawkeye1250FA wrote:
a touch of instant gasket around the OUTER edges before closing and tightening the bolts will help.

Silicon = no Smile

https://i.imgur.com/oFk0B3N.png


“Its special formulation allows Silverhook RTV Instant Gasket to withstand temperatures from -62°c to +260°c & intermittent use to 315°c.”

Still no.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not going to be 800 degrees anyway. Aluminium melts at 660 and that's what the engine, and the metal foil in composite exhaust washers are made of.

How hot is something in contact with the cylinder head of a liquid cooled bike actually going to get? I'd be very surprised if it's over 200.
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Hawkeye1250FA
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
It's not going to be 800 degrees anyway. Aluminium melts at 660 and that's what the engine, and the metal foil in composite exhaust washers are made of.

How hot is something in contact with the cylinder head of a liquid cooled bike actually going to get? I'd be very surprised if it's over 200.


That’s interesting.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
It's not going to be 800 degrees anyway. Aluminium melts at 660 and that's what the engine, and the metal foil in composite exhaust washers are made of.

How hot is something in contact with the cylinder head of a liquid cooled bike actually going to get? I'd be very surprised if it's over 200.


Watched a thing on youtube a while ago about tuning cars based on EGT, and I seem to remember it was about 800c. I imagine bikes would be similar. I don't know how much transfers to the steel mind.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:

Watched a thing on youtube a while ago about tuning cars based on EGT, and I seem to remember it was about 800c. I imagine bikes would be similar. I don't know how much transfers to the steel mind.


Aye, when the gas hits the first bend, it's epic hot. But the gasket is against the cylinder head. It can't be hitting 800 degrees, it would melt.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 02 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't tune anything based solely on EGT readings. Its just another indicator tool when you have all singing equipment for monitoring and setting up engines.

They got by years ago without EGT sensors, and from just what I've read on two stroke tuning, EGT's vary with stuff like types of fuel, compression ratios, head design etc. Its easy to get into a minefield and then ignore basic principles IMO.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:43 - 03 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hawkeye1250FA wrote:
“Its special formulation allows Silverhook RTV Instant Gasket to withstand temperatures from -62°c to +260°c & intermittent use to 315°c.”

Still no.

Then which "instant gasket" are you recommending?
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 03 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for Loctite 5990. My total bodge-job exhaust uses it liberally. Used just after first bend and in a few places down to the endcan. Just Works.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 04 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the bike is EFI with modern emissions control systems make sure the sealant is o2/lambda safe.
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colink98
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PostPosted: 08:43 - 05 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:

OP The other issue is, why do you need to add a sealant? Unless the surfaces are compromised the own gasket should be all that's required.
Maybe the faces of the zost are mis-aligned warped.



The studs were a mess, 2 of them were M8 to M7.
The other 4 were just M8 Stud.
2 of the copper washers i removed where not even slightly crushed.
i think the flanges were binding on the M8 stud instead of moving freely as they would on M7 thread.

brand new studs installed which are M8 to M7.
the exhaust ports on the engine block are clean and sound.

the down-pipe's looks nasty as fuck.
https://i.imgur.com/fh5XhJU.jpg

if i commit to "Ste for Mod" will it help my exhaust seal better ?
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Ride it like you stole it.
ride sensible and not like an idiot and you wont get 6 points in one week.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 05 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ColinK98 wrote:
MCN wrote:

OP The other issue is, why do you need to add a sealant? Unless the surfaces are compromised the own gasket should be all that's required.
Maybe the faces of the zost are mis-aligned warped.



The studs were a mess, 2 of them were M8 to M7.
The other 4 were just M8 Stud.
2 of the copper washers i removed where not even slightly crushed.
i think the flanges were binding on the M8 stud instead of moving freely as they would on M7 thread.

brand new studs installed which are M8 to M7.
the exhaust ports on the engine block are clean and sound.

the down-pipe's looks nasty as fuck.
https://i.imgur.com/fh5XhJU.jpg

if i commit to "Ste for Mod" will it help my exhaust seal better ?


His campaign is based on him turning the forum around to make it a 'Going Concern' again.

Knowing that the forum is back in safe hands will keep your mind off of your clattery pipes at least.
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