snapped cylinder bolt... :(

[Norlig]

Just going to start this thread with saying that, I am going to buy a torque tool and new bolts first thing tomorrow.


So, I managed to do this:

https://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6835/r00x.jpg

A friend said it was easy and that I just need to drill it out?

Can someone tell me what the easiest way to get this out now is? is it indeed drilling?

[dansp1]

How did you snap it? doing it up?
if so a good sharp centre punch used carefully to tap it round should work

[Norlig]

[Hetzer]

[smegballs]

[Hetzer]

True that.
____________________
"There's the horizon! Ride hard, ride fast and cut down all who stand in your way!"

[Nobby the Bastard]

Hit the stub square on with the punch near the edge. This will leave a dent in the stub (if you hit it hard enough).

Then, angle the punch with it in the dent and then gently(ish) tap the punch in the correct to undo it.

You'll need a good quality punch with a thin tip for best results. A good quality punch will have a seriously hard tip.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Ed Case]

[Nobby the Bastard]

[1cyl]

Buy Dormer screw extractor. Tape up crankcase opening and slowly drill a nice neat hole in snapped thread using a nice cutting agent. Spray with WD 40. Extract using correct extractor for hole size.

Cheers
____________________
Chase my Witch up, Catch my Snitch up.
The SMC | The Pit | Stable

[Ariel Badger]

What has happened to your piston, it looks like it has had acne.
____________________
Bikers make great organ donors, get 115 on your licence today.

[Norlig]

[dansp1]

no charge

[Robby]

Don't use an extractor. It will snap, and then you'll be fucked.

Drill a pilot hole with a cobalt drill bit and plenty of cutting fluid. Then switch to left-handed drill bits to drill out the remains. Most times the left-handed drill bits will unscrew the remains once enough metal has been removed.

Use a torque wrench next time. It looks like an M10 bolt that you've snapped. Cylinder head bolts only tend to require between 20 and 40 ft-lb of torque, and it takes a lot more than that to snap an M10 mild steel bolt.

[Ed Case]

[smegballs]

[Norlig]

As mentined earlier, I got the bolt off easy as It hadn't bottomned.

I have bought a Torque socket wrench now, also found in the manual that I need 15nM of torque on them.

But, I did not find any bolts from any store that were the same length and diamater as the ones I had, so I made my own:

https://imageshack.us/a/img543/8116/ch2h.png

https://imageshack.us/a/img708/918/2lzz.jpg

But then the same person as in the first post said that I should not use them because they might not take the heat from the cylinder (although the bike is liquid cooled), another person said it might corrode, as the crank case is cast steel?
The bolts I made are stainless steel, not fermented

Can I use these, or do I have to order some bolts?

[Timmeh]

Is this is a trick question?
____________________
GSXR400 x2 | '94 RVF400 | '93 TZR125 4DL (again)
20:22:30 BLUEX5: i would love to be forced to undergo a**l plugging with different sizes
20:48:18 Temeluchus: comp you hunk of smouldering homos3x you

[Welshd1k]

[Robby]

I say mild steel as opposed to stainless steel, not going into complexities of grades.

OP, get the right bolts from a dealer. You managed to snap a mild steel bolt, so now you want to replace it with what looks like some easy-shear stainless threaded bar from a garden centre. When that snaps you'll be fucked.

Get the right parts, follow the manual to do the job right, don't bodge it or take shortcuts when failure can cause expensive damage.

[Norlig]

Gonna visit the local MC workshop on monday then, if they dont have it, I'll order from the webs.

Thanks!