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| David072 |
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 David072 Nova Slayer
Joined: 23 Mar 2013 Karma :     
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| Fizzer Thou |
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 Fizzer Thou World Chat Champion

Joined: 06 Aug 2011 Karma :     
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 Posted: 09:32 - 22 Oct 2013 Post subject: |
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The first thing that I would buy when considering doing home servicing is a workshop manual.If you do not trust the Haynes version,you can buy the Yamaha one.
I change the oil and oil filter every 4,000 miles,with just an oil change every 2,000 miles.Oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild.It is not worth changing the coolant at the mileage you have stated,but you could do well to remove the air filter and blow it through in the opposite direction to air flow.Check the chain drive slack and clean and lubricate as necessary.Check the tyre pressures regularly.
As for which oil and filter to buy,unless you are using the full revs available all of the time,the oil that you have seen on ebay may well be a bit OTT.I use Halfreuds own 10w40 at about £22 for 5 litres.This is quite adequate for my R1,Exup and XR400 when changed on a regular basis.I only trust genuine oil filters after a bad experience with pattern ones years ago,but some have said that the K&N ones with a hex head,which is helpful when doing up the filter to the required tightness,is a good idea.
https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/oil_filter_boxes_zps56a91979.jpg ____________________ Just talk bikes.What else is there?
Always have a 'Plan B'
Last edited by Fizzer Thou on 09:46 - 22 Oct 2013; edited 1 time in total |
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| DrDonnyBrago |
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 DrDonnyBrago World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 Jan 2010 Karma :   
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| David072 |
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 David072 Nova Slayer
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| weasley |
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 weasley World Chat Champion

Joined: 16 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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| DrDonnyBrago |
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 DrDonnyBrago World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 Jan 2010 Karma :   
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| L12Mason |
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 L12Mason Derestricted Danger
Joined: 20 Jan 2012 Karma :  
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 Posted: 13:31 - 22 Oct 2013 Post subject: |
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I have the same bike as you.
I changed the oil, filter, spark plugs and the front and rear pads on mine last month.
It was all fairly straight forward apart from the 4th plug, which was a pain in the ass.
Here's a link for the oil change I used.
https://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/how-tos/18531-how-change-your-oil.html |
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| Bloggsy |
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 Bloggsy Spanner Monkey

Joined: 08 Feb 2010 Karma :     
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| David072 |
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 David072 Nova Slayer
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| weasley |
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 weasley World Chat Champion

Joined: 16 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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| 0l0dom0l0 |
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 0l0dom0l0 World Chat Champion

Joined: 21 Oct 2009 Karma :  
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 Posted: 14:23 - 24 Oct 2013 Post subject: |
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I've got the same bike and I did for the 6000 mile service last year as follows:
Oil filter (go to Yamaha dealer, tell them your bike, they will give you a genuine oil filter about £15).
Oil (Halfords, Castrol Semi Synthetic 10w - 40. 4 litres is more than enough (some spare for top ups if needed)
Plugs (NGK CR9EIX). I used iridum plugs as it was about £5 more expensive and they last longer.
To get to the plugs I removed the radiator (not as bad as it sounds) and so drained the coolant and replaced this which I would recommend doing. (Castrol Motorcycle Coolant).... about 2 litres is needed.
I was changing the brake fluid so took the time to fit braided lines to the front (again something I would recommend). Changed fluid in both front and rear brakes. Halfords DOT4 brake fluid (make sure it's for a bike though, and check the boiling point. You want it to be as high as you can find)
That's it really. It's a bit over kill, but mine was an 06 with 6k miles at the time so knew it hadn't been done. 6 years is long enough for coolant and brake fluid to go off.
I'd also as Fizzer said check your chain and adjust if you need to and oil it as well..... plenty of guides if you aren't sure.
Just one thing to remember, on these the oil filter is located by the rear sprocket. I'd also recommend you get yourself an oil filter removal tool if you're going to be doing it yourself, they're such a good investment and I wish I'd bought one 3 years ago as I'd have used it about 10 times by now. Much easier than struggling with stupid chain thing anyway.
Good luck, it's all stuff you can do yourself and theres plenty of guides online about it all..... but if you don't feel confident about some of it, then I would get a garage to do it. £150 in labour is cheaper than a new engine or what not.
Hope this helps. ____________________ CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.
Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30. |
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| sprintster |
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 sprintster Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 18 Aug 2013 Karma :     
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 Posted: 16:31 - 26 Oct 2013 Post subject: |
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I wouldn't worry too much about changing the brake fluid just now.If you want to improve your brakes the best thing to start with is cleaning the brake caliper pistons,that'll have more effect than changing fluid.You should be able to tell if the brake fluid needs changing by the colour of it.If it's dark it needs changing,if it's light it'll be fine unless you feel the brakes are spongy and then you need to bleed the air out of the system anyway.Bleeding the brakes is a doddle if you use a Motrax Little Bleeder or similar.No need to keep opening and closing the bleed nipple,just open it and keep pumping away.  |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 65 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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