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YBR 125 Not Starting Help! SOLVED

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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 11 Jan 2014    Post subject: YBR 125 Not Starting Help! SOLVED Reply with quote

So, haven't run it since buying it last week, go out this morning and didn't start on first button press. Turned it off and tried again and it started. Continued to start a few more times throughout the morning whilst I was checking & topping up the oil and before I went out for a ride. I managed to put a little too much oil in so it went above the max marker slightly.

Now, during the ride, went to the garage to check the tyre pressure and when I pulled up, i put the side stand on with the engine running so it cut out. Did the tyres and went to start up again and wouldn't start. Tried a few more times and each time the starter was struggling more and more. I left it for a while and just sat there thinking about starting to walk it to the nearest mechanic in town when I thought about jump starting. So walked with it and let the clutch out and it started - almost run away from me but managed to grab it. Rode home but noticed when stopped at a few lights, the revs were dipping on idle a bit.

Left it for an hour and tried to start again a min ago and wouldn't start. Tried to kick it over and didn't start either so now wrapped it up again and looking for help for what to do. Only things I noticed were different to normal are:

too much oil
engine stopped with kill switch on side stand before it wouldn't start again

TLDR - electric and kick start doesn't start engine, symptoms sound like when my battery is low/dying in my car but it had just been running minutes before
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Last edited by Doomsnite on 07:27 - 13 Feb 2014; edited 1 time in total
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 11 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly when you mention the sidestand cut out switch - the sidestand switch is only supposed to cut the engine if the bike is in gear, can you confirm this is what you meant?

When trying to start it, do you get anything on the engine management light, such as a constant flashing, or a series of slow and fast flashes?

If you're able to bump start it, it could just be a flat battery, but you should be able to kick start it on a flat battery if you give enough of a kick.

Lastly you say it's on an 09 plate, but it has the chrome style exhaust from the 2005/2006 carb versions as I've never seen that exhaust on a post-2007 YBR. Just to check its the fuel injection model (easier to troubleshoot than the carbs) check if there's a fuel tap or choke down by the tank somewhere - if there isn't you've got the right year Thumbs Up
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 11 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was in gear but I had the clutch in.

The engine light was doing something but can't remember what - does that show you what kind of fault? I seem to remember it getting slower in flashing as it was dying off. Turning over got more strained. Will have to try it again in the morning and see.

When I was stuck at the garage, I forgot it had a kick start… Wasn't until I got home that the wife reminded me Embarassed Will have to give it a proper kick in the morning and see.

Could it really be flat battery if I had just been riding it for half an hour and it started before that - it should have charged it? If it is, whats the cure? Replacement?

Pretty sure it hasn't got a choke - what am I looking for and which side? /novice
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 11 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the deadly YBR is more of a suicidal YBR?
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 11 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel tap would be on one of the side pods or underneath, if you can't see it then you haven't got one, as it's pretty obvious!

Firstly make sure the oil is at a healthy level - drain some if necessary. If you can kick and bump start it fine and it runs ok then it could well be the battery being flat - whether it's a knackered battery or something more sinister such as a faulty regulator or rectifier (parts of the charging circuit) I don't know.

If you have a battery charger or maintenance charger (such as oxford oximiser or optimate) then let it charge the battery to full, then try again.

Try to find out what the orange engine management light is doing. If it's flashing fast constantly, it could be the sidestand switch, clutch switch, or neutral switch, all part of the safety circuit. Try starting the bike off the kickstand (while you're on it), make sure the neutral light is on (make sure it is in neutral), and try pulling the clutch in at the same time as starting.

If the management light gives a fast flash at first, then a series of pulsed flashes, then it's giving you an error code. For example after the initial quick few flashes.. ONE slow flash then NINE faster flashes means error code 19. If it is giving you an error code post it here or video it and I'll look it up in the Hayne's manual (or if you've got one, fault codes are on page 3B-6).
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 11 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks will try looking at the error codes tomorrow. Do you keep the starter pressed during that time or will the lights continue flash after youve stopped?
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 11 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The light will continue to flash. Try to start it, if you see anything on the engine management light, let go of the starter and pay close attention to the light. Good luck!
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 08:09 - 12 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im looking into getting an oxford charger today but would it be worth while getting a multimeter on it first to see if it had discharged?
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 12 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soo.. started it this morning and there was just nothing there. NO engine light coming on, it yelped into trying to start but didn't attempt to turn over.

Pumped the kick start a few times and it started. So battery not charged then? I'm going to get a multimeter in a minute to see if its completely dead or has some amount of charge. The Oxford charger says it cannot help if its completely dead, so would have to look at something else if its that.
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 12 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely worth checking the voltage, though its very unlikely it will have dropped below an unrecoverable level. So get it on charge when you can, if the battery voltage is low. If you charge the battery, and it works fine then that's a start, but if the problem comes back it means either your battery is knackered, or your charging circuit is faulty. As aforementioned, this is commonly regulator or rectifier, though not seen this issue on a YBR for a while. Hopefully it might just be cold starts etc. But make sure that you've got nothing on the bike like heated grips or an alarm etc. that could be drawing current from the battery. I've got a set of heated grips on mine but I always remember to switch em off Idea
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 12 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

No nothing draining it. How long should a standard battery last without it being charged or using the bike to know whether its a duff battery? Ive read lots of people have chargers when not using it but is a week normal for it to lose charge or should it be longer?
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 11:46 - 12 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tested it… 11.8 with ignition off, 11.1 with ignition on, so battery is discharged. Just have to get a charger now and see if it holds it and whether there may be another problem. Still wouldn't mind knowing how long a decent battery should hold a charge for - what does yours do?

Thanks for all your help thus far, much appreciated Thumbs Up
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 12 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You shouldn't lose charge in a week with a healthy battery and charging circuit. I tend to use a charger because of the many cold starts, short journeys and the fact that I constantly use a set of heated grips when I'm riding. But on it's own the battery shouldn't lose charge unless you're doing many short journeys.

Once the battery is charged - check the charging circuit by getting your multimeter, set it on the 20v setting and put it across the battery when the bike is off, should read between 12.4 and 12.8 for a battery charged over 75%. Then start the bike and see what the charging voltage is, it should be considerably higher than the battery voltage, should be well above 13.0 but no higher than 14.4.
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 12 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

To check the charging voltage is it to read the voltage as its starting or whilst its running?

Gonna order it today so might be a few days. Got something else to fix today - the noggin on the body panel fascia covering the battery has snapped off Mad Will try and superglue it but don't hold out much hope!
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 12 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whilst it's running mate - check the voltage whilst it's idling and rev it a bit - see how the charging voltage changes. If it runs perfectly once started it's unlikely to be a problem with the alternator, but we don't know that there IS a problem so just have to wait.

You can order the side panels on ebay if you want to replace it - the lock that you put your key in screws off from the inside. I put WD-40 on the pins because those panels are a nightmare to get off!
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doomsnite wrote:
Got something else to fix today - the noggin on the body panel fascia covering the battery has snapped off Mad Will try and superglue it but don't hold out much hope!


Depends how its broken, but you can use a non melting superglue to hold it in place then JBweld or Araldite to strengthen the join. It's also a good idea to surround the part with Blutack or plasticine to prevent whatever you use from flowing away from where you really need it.
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

YBR Ric wrote:
Doomsnite wrote:
Got something else to fix today - the noggin on the body panel fascia covering the battery has snapped off Mad Will try and superglue it but don't hold out much hope!


Depends how its broken, but you can use a non melting superglue to hold it in place then JBweld or Araldite to strengthen the join. It's also a good idea to surround the part with Blutack or plasticine to prevent whatever you use from flowing away from where you really need it.

The little noggin has snapped off with just a small bit of the base, so have superglued it back on last night. There's loads of black crap around it so looks like someone has tried to fix it before. Was planning to put something else on top, will look into what you suggest thanks.

Where do you mean putting the bluetac?
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Iain_ wrote:
Sounds like battery is toast.

You need a YTX7L-BS for a YBR125ED which is what I suspect you have, however pull the battery out & check the code on the side.

We'd charge £30 for a Dynavolt/Rob Hunter battery, or £40 for the genuine Yuasa battery.

Yeah I'm thinking I might have to replace it, the dad in law said a week is not very good. Although I only went out on it for a couple of hours and dont know the last time it was ridden before that, although it did start.

The charger will be a good investment though as I will still wont be using the bike every day. I did see a "new" ybr125 battery on eBay for £19.99...
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get a decent maintenance free battery on ebay. Just make sure its not your charging circuit!
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah will check it all out first, was just looking around.
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bikersupermot...
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

get a charger maintainer and use that especially in winter. cold damp weather, lights on all the time, electric starts - they all take their toll on a battery and if your doing short journeys it ll kill your battery - your taking out more than your putting back in.

i got an oxford oximiser 900 for 29.99 ( now down to 24.99 ) off ebay last week - just leave it permanently attached whenever the bike is not being ridden and it ll keep your battery in tip top shape and probably save you having to to replace it quiet so often - 1 replacement battery = cost of the charger so it kinda pays for itself.

this:- [url]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oxford-Oximiser-900-Battery-Charger-Motorbike-Motorcycle-Optimiser-Trickle-UK-40-/321289473312?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4ace584d20

lidl did an really good one for 14.95 last year - again, fully auto, just leave it permantly connected and it does a great job.

iv also got an optimate 4 ( too many bikes haha ) but it does the same job as the cheaper chargers and costs up to twice as much. get the cheaper one![/url]
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I ordered that one off ebay last night... £24.99. A lot better than the £50 Halfords are quoting in stock - I nearly bought it at the weekend but realised I was in now rush as I had the kick start Thumbs Up
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Doomsnite
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

they just emailed me to say that they have run out of the Oxford charger until next week but can offer me the Optimate 3+ in its place at the same price... is this better, worse, same?
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 13 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

They'll both do the same job fine - the optimate 3+ doesn't have a screen I don't think - so you'll just have to use a multimeter to check the voltage. When I connect my oxford I usually park it in the alley under it's cover and trail the cable through the letterbox so I can see the voltage without getting the cover off or even going outside Thumbs Up not a major loss though.
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