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How do I compression test an NSR125?

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scoobiemandan
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 03 Apr 2014
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PostPosted: 03:17 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: How do I compression test an NSR125? Reply with quote

Hi,

Very new to bikes so excuse my ignorance. Recently bought me an NSR125 with little history and no idea whether a top end rebuild has ever been done. It's currently sitting at 21,000 (possibly km as an import). Don't have any running issues at present but would like to check for piece of mind.

Done some searching but found different answers which never really helps from a newbie perspective. Anyways, could someone please explain the steps (easy for an idiot to understand) on how to do a test? Also, is there any particular bit of kit I require or is the following okay for the job?;

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199553_langId_-1_categoryId_255216#tab3

Thanks for reading peeps Smile
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 04:22 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You take the spark plug out fit the compression tester in the hole where the spark plug was and then turn the engine over.
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scoobiemandan
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PostPosted: 04:43 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suppose I asked for that Rolling Eyes

Thanks but do I need to ground the spark plug, if so, how? Do I need to open full throttle? Cold engine or hot engine?
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jeddy11
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PostPosted: 06:47 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

No its a compression test that is all to make sure your cylinder inst leaking air pressure so take a plug out and pull the ht leads off the other plugs(if there was any) as said plug the compression tester in the hole then turn the bike over your not trying to start the bike up so no throttle etc needed as the engine turns over your compression tester will go up and a reading will be made.

You will now know if your pistons/rings/cylinders are good or not..
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scoobiemandan
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PostPosted: 06:52 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jedda but how is air gonna enter the chamber if the throttle isn't open and couldn't I damage the ignition system without grounding the ht lead?

Just wanting to do this the safest and best way Wink
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weasley
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The compression tester will have instructions, but typically you do have the throttle wide open when compression testing, to eliminate the vacuum effect of a closed throttle (plus allowing the engine to turn over easier/faster).

And don't worry about the spark plug.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

scoobiemandan wrote:
Thanks Jedda but how is air gonna enter the chamber if the throttle isn't open and couldn't I damage the ignition system without grounding the ht lead?

Just wanting to do this the safest and best way Wink


Yes, open the throttle all the way, let it pump free air.
Air will get through the carb with the throttle closed, same as it does when the engine's idling, with the throttle shut; its never totally shut, its not a vacuum seal, but compression test will be better WOT.

If spark plug isn't grounded, then spark don't jump. That's all. There's no circuit, so electric wont flow. Shouldn't damage anything.

If you are really worried about it and want to see sparks; earth spark plug with a a jump-lead from the spark plug threads to the swing arm pivot or other convenient earth point.
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scoobiemandan
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tested the compression before reading your post Mike but with throttle shut. Came back as 115psi!

I'm assuming that the top end needs a rebuild soonish based on that but not really sure what the psi should be! I've read it should be circa 125psi!?

No paperwork with the bike to say it had had a rebuild and is showing 21k on the clock, I'm thinking this is KM as the bike's an import so it's most likely due one!
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P.
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say as long as its over 110, you are ok, but start saving.

You want over 130 really.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Throttle wide open and redo it.

From memory it should be 10 bar +/- 2 bar (so ~145psi give or take 29psi, so min 116psi).

All the best

Keith
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Hugh Farking Cant
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Them Gunson (and also the Draper) gauges are not renowned for their accuracy.
Alright for checking differences between cylinder though.

115 psi on closed throttle is very good if that is actual pressure.
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scoobiemandan
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PostPosted: 11:45 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hugh Farking Cant wrote:
Them Gunson (and also the Draper) gauges are not renowned for their accuracy.
Alright for checking differences between cylinder though.

115 psi on closed throttle is very good if that is actual pressure.


And Laser ones!!??
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IN THE GARAGE: 2001 Fox Eye Honda NSR125R, 2004 Subaru Legacy GT Spec-B, 2013 Ford S-Max 2.0 Titanium X Sport
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Hugh Farking Cant
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

scoobiemandan wrote:
Hugh Farking Cant wrote:
Them Gunson (and also the Draper) gauges are not renowned for their accuracy.
Alright for checking differences between cylinder though.

115 psi on closed throttle is very good if that is actual pressure.


And Laser ones!!??


Lucky bag (for those old enough to remember) or xmas cracker material I'm afraid.

Here is a link to a good NSR forum if you have just got into them ;
https://www.125ccsportsbikes.com/forums/index.php?s=7b632101ad02b235615578d9b7f07330&showforum=10
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 06 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hugh Farking Cant wrote:
Them Gunson (and also the Draper) gauges are not renowned for their accuracy.
Alright for checking differences between cylinder though.

115 psi on closed throttle is very good if that is actual pressure.

Hi,
i've using the gunson (with all the adaptors) for years + i've never had any issues with it, + found it to be fairly accurate when tested side by side to the kit my local garage has.
op : take spark plug out, completely. stick it in your pocket then theres nothing connected to the plug cap + there will be no stray sparks.
hold throttle wide open hit the starter + keep your finger on it until the needle on your testerr tops moving.
do this 3 or 4 times + get an average figure.
your wanting around 140psi.
the nsr has quite a reliable engine,icl cylinder + dont usually nee top end re-placed as much as say, an aprilia rs125.
spark plug : i know alains is the resient nsr guru & recommends using an iridium plug but i personally think they are a waste of money on a 2 stroke. tenner for 1 plug? f*ck that, buy 3 copper tipped ones for the same price. (keep a spare with you

cheers,
GAZ
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alains
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

i agree 120 PSI is a minimum
you need at least a ring set change (plus gaskets,pin,bearing) which wont cost a fortune
see david silver spares
if you're doing so , i can guide you through the process
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scoobiemandan
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

We're moving to morrow so things are a bit up in the air at the moment but I shall be redoing the test and having throttle full open and see if that makes a difference and do it maybe three or four times to get an average. I'll report back when I do.

I got a nephew who's just rebuilt his Aprilia engine so I've already told him I'll be accosting him when the time comes Wink
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

A two stroke rebuild is easy-peasy as long as you can follow some instructions Thumbs Up
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scoobiemandan
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 16:30 - 07 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aye, read up on it. Seems easy enough. It's all about finding a day or two where I won't be needing the bike in case I come across other parts I need upon inspection.
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