Car Help: Failed MOT

[David072]

Hi Guys,

Sorry, car question! This is for a 2001 Honda Accord 1.8.

I haven't driven my car at all in the last 6 months, and only did 3k miles since the last MOT. I had it in for it's MOT today and it has failed.

Apparently, the handbrake is only working at 15% efficiency and therefore it failed. The reason, they said, is because the rear brakes need replacing - new discs and pads, because of rust and pitting?

They want £250 inc labour to replace the rear pads and disks.

Thing is, I had planned on selling after it passing the MOT (expected it would fly through, it had no advisories last year and has done only 3k since). If I sell the car, it'll only be worth around £1,000 (despite it having FSH) as its done 100k and is an old car.

Therefore, not sure I can justify spending £250 on getting this fixed. And I'm not entirely convinced it should've failed.

Anyone got any thoughts here? Curious as to what you guys would do at this stage.

Thanks all!

[-]

How many clicks does it take to get the brake to hold when you pull the lever?

Try adjusting the cable to tighten it a bit. Also once adjusted up, if it's been stood a while, drive a few meters with the handbrake applied to clean off the surfaces of the shoes/drum.

This might help...

https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4565
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[P.addy]

This is why you get it MOT'd at an MOT place, rather than a garage that does both MOTs and repairs.

I'd just whip the wheels off, remove any shit on there, adjust the cable a little and bam it back in.

[David072]

Thanks for the replies guys.

He said it was operating at 15% efficiency, if that's the case, surely an MOT only place would still fail it?

I don't see how this would justify new pads and disks.

Would the car be worth £250 less if I sold without an MOT? As if I can sell without one and it only be worth £200 less, surely I'm better off selling without the MOT...

[Northern Monkey]

[P.addy]

How much do you want for the car...

How soon do you want it shifted? I'd say rear disks and pads on an Accord, following ebay.. comes out as £15 per disc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-ACCORD-2-0I-2-0-TURBO-DI-1-8I-2-0I-16V-2-0-98-03-Eicher-Rear-Brake-Disc-/400587419299?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Year%3A2001%7CCar+Make%3AHonda%7CModel%3AAccord&hash=item5d44deeea3

all rear pads £15.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Accord-MK7-1-8-Omega-Rear-Brake-Pads-Genuine-OE-Spec-Service-Replacement-/331146830004?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Year%3A2001%7CCar+Make%3AHonda%7CModel%3AAccord&hash=item4d19e3a0b4

£45 and an afternoons work.

If you are around Kent, I'd probably give you a hand if you weren't too keen

[David072]

[MarJay]

I had this on my BMW recently. I did the pads and disks myself then had to readjust the handbrake. It was a pain, but they were right.

In your case, you left the car to stand for ages. Why not try to adjust the handbrake a bit, then hammer the car as hard as you can on the way to the test centre on the brakes. This should improve the brake efficiency a bit and might allow a pass.

Or sell the car for scrap. £1000 sounds optomistic for an old 1.8 Honda tbh.
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[ficedula]

If you do end up putting new discs and pads on - and it's worth trying alternatives first - then I'd certainly shop around, £250 is expensive. Last time I needed a pair of discs/pads fitted to my car, first place I went to quoted £250; got it done for £150 at a different garage (and I'm fairly sure I could have got it done cheaper still, if I'd been willing to go further afield.)
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[-]

I think you're being a bit optimistic thinking you'll get a grand for it.
A 2000 model 1.8 VTEC with FSH and 100,000 miles can be had for under £500 with MOT and tax.


https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201403232741858/sort/default/usedcars/engine-size-cars/1-7l_to_1-9l/price-to/1500/model/accord/make/honda/maximum-age/over_10_years_old/price-from/0/maximum-mileage/over_100000_miles/page/1/radius/1501/postcode/tn249lx/onesearchad/used%2Cnearlynew%2Cnew?logcode=p

The site I linked to told you how to check for the amount of clicks and showed you an easy way to adjust the cable at the lever end. If you do this and get the clicks to raise the lever within range, drive it around for a few seconds with the handbrake to clean up the shoe/drum surfaces, it'll probably pass. Try parking it on a steep hill.
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[Rogerborg]

[Busa1340R]

Used to work in a Honda dealership back in the day. Not uncommon for rear pads to seize to the caliper abutments.

Whilst all of the above could well work, I would probably do this.

Let off the handbrake cable adjuster a bit so that there is plenty of free play.

Remove the rear calipers and wind the pistons back in to ensure that the pistons are not seized.

Take the pads out and (if serviceable) grind/file/clean up (not too aggressively) the top and bottom "ears" on each pad.

Measure the rear discs and compare to Workshop Manual tolerances. They will either be worn or not. Replace only if worn past service limit.

Remove and thoroughly clean the silver coloured anti rattle shims.

Reassmble with a reasonable amount of copper grease on the pad "ears" and backing plates.

Pump out the pads with the footbrake ensuring a firm pedal, before re-adjusting the handbrake cable. I would usually adjust until rear brakes binding and then back off a couple of turns of the adjuster nut.

Ensure everything that you have undone is done up securely and then take it for a good run making full use of the brakes.....
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[Nb]

Thats harsh, find a tester with a stronger arm you are 1% off passing.
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[bikenut]

so its been siting all neglected and idle for the past 6 months........while you've been partying all hours no doubt!!

remove wheels, clean rust off discs, remove pads and clean away rust etc....free caliper and mechanisism......make sure pistons are free, hand brake so pistons may need to rotate, get maual anad check, when all cklean and reust free re assemble and adjust.....any better...if it fails it fails for a reason........
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[DrDonnyBrago]

TBF, my bro's BMW 540 failed for the same reason. After removing the rear disc, the handbrake shoe came out in no less than 10 pieces. About 1/3 of the shoe was still attached with the rest rattling about as crumbs or completely missing.

So... could be worth investigating further.

[Llama-Farmer]

Find some industrial estate or somewhere quiet with ideally with a big roundabout or carpark and drive around for a few minutes with the handbrake on a few clicks, just enough so that theres slight resistance, not so it's noticeably holding the car back.

That should scrape most of the crap off without snapping a cable or overheating the brakes.

Then tighten up the handbrake cable at the lever (you'll need to remove plastic/rubber gaiter) and you may get away with passing without having to spend any money.
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[David072]

Thanks all.

Took the car for a second opinion and the guy said the rear brake discs were really corroded, which is probably the problem and why they suggested new discs and pads.

Now then... What to do? If I try as you've said, driving with the brake on for a bit, will it remove enough of the rust for me to pass...?

The fail certificate says I can return in 10 days and pay a partial retest fee, anyone know how much that is?

[dansp1]

The corrosion has to be bad enough to make them think the disc is unsafe IE about to break- very unlikely

Do not adjust the handbrake cable, if it has been over adjusted that is likely the reson for a poor handbrake, if the levers on the calipers do not return to the stops the self adjustment wont work

Jack it up and take the wheels off, check to see if the levers are moving freely and returning to the stops, if not that is what needs sorting out, as somebody already mentioned it is worth pulling the pads out and cleaning up the ears to make sure they are not binding in the calipers.

As has been said you only need 16% efficiency on a dual circuit system so it shouldn't be hard to find....

[Rogerborg]

[David072]

[moonzoomer]

[-]

[WD Forte]

Dont know why you seem to feel hard done by
It deserved to fail IMO
why? because it was neglected !

If it was bike everyone on here would be kicking your ass
and telling you you to whip the wheel off and have a look FFS!
It aint rocket science
Some basic servicing would probably have got you that MOT

If you wont take a wheel off to examine the brakes
what does that say about the rest of the car?
14 years and 100,000 miles eh? how many of neglect I wonder?
and you want a grand without getting your hands dirty?

You know the commonest worst thing that can happen
to a car or bike?

the owner
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[bikenut]

hear hear to above!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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[David072]

Cheers for the help guys!

As for it being neglected, I simply haven't had to drive. I ride a bike and I work in central London - no need to drive, and when I have had to I've used the GFs car. When I was driving, I always had it serviced.

I made a few calls and got a mobile mechanic coming to do the work Monday. They're charging £110 including parts to replace the rear brakes. I figured for that price I may as well do it tbh.

No doubt the things mentioned above will have helped and probably got me through the test, but as I'm selling the car the last thing I want to do is sell someone a car with dodgy brakes.

Thanks for the advice, all.