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Full battery, still not starting.

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Saltire
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Joined: 11 Apr 2013
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Full battery, still not starting. Reply with quote

Just charged my battery up with the OptiMate, green light so I know the battery is good since it tests as well as charges it and would let me know if it wasn't holding a charge.

Key in, switched on, nout. I had some prior problems before with the ignition where I'd put the key in and nothing like now, but after a minor jiggle it was sorted.

Any advice? Don't have an ammeter (?) to hand but can get one, though I don't think it should be necessary as I said the OM tests it.

Edit: When I say nout I mean absolutely nout, not that it's almost cranking or w/e.
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Saltire
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PostPosted: 18:51 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, don't think it has a side stand switch but there is no leccy what so ever.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the lights and everything else working?

A TOTALLY flat battery will sometimes result in a green light on a modern charger. It just assumes it isn't connected to anything.

If they are. Try shorting between the terminals on the solenoid using an old screwdriver (sparks will fly). This ought to turn the starter motor even if the ignition is off.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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jimmyRS
Scooby Slapper



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PostPosted: 19:00 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

no lights on the dash whatsoever? guessing youve checked the main fuse?

if you're saying a jiggle of the key used to bring it back on, possibly the internals of the key barrel, or maybe just below outside the barrel itself there may be a stray/damaged wire.
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Saltire
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah no lights, nothing. I tried jump starting it and still no juice so I am starting to think it is the ignition barrel/wiring itself.

Not checked the fuse as I'd need an ammeter, I think, but I will just in case Thumbs Up.

Will take some pics of the botch job on the ground wire that's been done but again, I don't think that would cause the issue, was just frying my battery before it was done.

Not really sure where to start when checking the ignition, guess having a look at the wires I can see and making sure they are connected together can't be too wrong.

Note to self; do maintenance course ASAP.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You remove the fuse nearest the battery + so likely on the solenoid.

Check it, its crispy, replace it.
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misscrabstick
Crazy Courier



Joined: 05 Jul 2013
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

A prior issue with the ignition you say that jiggling the key rectified? It's probable that issue has got much worse perhaps and you need to look at the electrical bit of the ignition switch a bit closer.
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
You remove the fuse nearest the battery + so likely on the solenoid.

Check it, its crispy, replace it.


My asshole puckered well and truly when my bike died after changing a bulb, after a frantic search I found the fuse and thankfully it was this that blew.

I did have to bodega the gap to see if it was this if course as didn't have another to replace it with (old fashioned bullet type) until I see that a spare was I the fuse holder...

Embarassed
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J.M.
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Joined: 27 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saltire wrote:
Not checked the fuse as I'd need an ammeter, I think, but I will just in case Thumbs Up.


Just take it out and look at it. Broken/corroded then replace. If a fuse has broken, it's designed to be visibly broken.
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Saltire
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have checked the fuse and it seemed fine, there was also a replacement fuse in the cartridge so i replaced it and tested just in case but still nothing.

Tried the solenoid trip method and it would crank the engine (which tells me the battery and fuse is okay?) but the bike obviously wouldn't start, I imagine because of the lack of input from the ignition barrel Thinking

All advice appreciated people thanks!
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had similar issue with GT. Key turned but no power. Put wd40 and even 3in1 oil down barrel. Worked key in and out of barrel. Sorted the problem.

If bike left out in recent cold and rain it might be similar fault. Hope you get sorted.
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Saltire
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone, I have got her started and let her run like she well needed at last.

The ignition barrel has changed it's sweet spot on me but I think maps' advice on the wd40 helped uncover it as I was getting nothing before - thank you map! Karma Karma Karma

Minor (hopefully) issue though - after having the bike started no more than 4 minutes I noticed some smoke coming off of the start of the exhaust in the way you would see if there was dry material on an unlubed hot frying pan. I know it is probably from me wd40ing it whilst it was out of action but should the exhaust be getting hot enough to do that so quick? I did have it on choke so obviously that's a factor but still. May be a daft question but I'd rather ask it and be safe.

Again, much appreciated BCF Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 22:02 - 27 Mar 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saltire wrote:

Tried the solenoid trip method and it would crank the engine (which tells me the battery and fuse is okay?) but the bike obviously wouldn't start, I imagine because of the lack of input from the ignition barrel Thinking


It tells you there is enough power in the battery to turn over the engine, the starter motor is working and the battery terminals are connected securely. So whatever your problem is, it's not the battery or starter motor. It tells you nothing more than that. It's not fused.

And yes. The exhaust header gets hot enough to burn oil off (or take the skin off your hand) within a very short time of starting the engine. Putting a drop of oil on each exhaust header and watching for them burning off is an old fashioned way of checking all the cylinders are firing (or which one isn't) on a multi cylinder engine.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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