Do you aim for the upper or lower limit of valve clearances?

[0l0dom0l0]

Just doing the valve clearances on the TL.

The manual states that the acceptable clearance is 0.1-0.2mm for inlet valves and 0.2-0.3mm for exhaust valves.

I've got all the shims out etc as pretty much all the valves are put of spec and I'm going to have to buy new shims.

But when calculating the new shim thickness where do the clearances want to end up after adjustment? Do they want to be at the lower end of the limit, or middle, or upper?

The Haynes book of lies it telling me to the lower end but I thought you aimed for the middle?

Many thanks

Dom
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[stinkwheel]

Bucket and shims tend to tighten up over time so I do these to the upper-end of the valve clearance.

Locknut adjusters tend to open up over time so I do these to the lower-end of the valve clearance.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[DrSnoosnoo]

I had the haynes book give me a big table so you could relate current clearance with shim thickness to tell you the correct shim that would get you back to clearance.
____________________
I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[Robby]

As SnooSnoo said, look in the table in the workshop manual. You should find that you can get away with re-using some of the existing shims by moving them around, instead of buying a whole set of new ones.

[0l0dom0l0]

The Haynes table gives me the shim to get them to the tighter limit of the clearance.

I've worked it out to get to the middle anyway as upon more research that's the target.
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[stinkwheel]

Remember that the shims are not necessarily the size they say they are so it's going to be "ballpark" to a certain extent.

Measure them with a micrometer (both the ones you've taken out and the new ones).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Pete.]

Too right Stinky I've found a good proportion of shims are not the size that's printed on them. Nowadays I tend to lap them to the size I need since they almost always need adjusting down in size.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[0l0dom0l0]

[Copycat73]

given the sizes of shimms available aim to get them within spec. that's all..
I`ve seen gaps that shrink and enlarge some what of a lottery.
wemoto shimms were spot on size to a closer spec than the Yamaha which were the smallest fraction over sized.

charts are usefull but after the first you can work out the size in your head without lookin.
____________________
Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[Pete.]

My shimcalculator lets you mix and match the wrong-sized shims on paper before you go buying them.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Fizzer Thou]

I have owned my Exup 1000 for so long I keep a record of clearances and what size shim is fitted where.So in the future I can measure the clearances and see which way they are shifting so as to choose the correct size shim before removing them.With shim-under-bucket placement this makes the job quicker and easier.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Nobby the Bastard]

[Fizzer Thou]

My Exup now has over 52,000 miles on the clock and I have checked and adjusted where necessary every 10,000 miles.I know what it says in both the genuine Yamaha and the Haynes manuals,but I do things my own way,not what is suggested in a book.

If anything,the R1 engine is easier to work on than the Exup,despite the fact that there are 20 valves to check and the frame is tighter around the engine on the R1.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'