Kmx problems

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Evening all, i have a couple of troubles just got my engine back from being rebuilt (supposed business & trained mechanic). from the outside all together looked great compression was unbelivably high and looked half decent but noticed in his own clutch cover which he sprayed it has a slit in the metal sitting behind window rather than no metal and clear view of whole window having bits of white paint showing i thought it couldnt be any good in the gearbox oil so delicately took the clutch cover off saving the gasket(hoping its fine to re use) the clutch cover was dirty to say the least and on inspection the clutch cover power valve actuator bearing is gritty & engine bearing for the pva is also similar. The powervalves are quite stiff on push/pull movement after its rebore i had a .5mm oversize piston thats fitted so guessing .5 oversized bore would this make any kind of difference or the steel filings may still be there possibly? He assured me that mains and seals were done but im not 100% as the gear shift drum screw was rounded which i supplied new screw and asked him change its still rounded and that has to be undone to split the cases? In picture im not sure if kick mechanism is inserted right with spring slightly crooked & the inlet manifold\oil intake jet was resin'd in as was sliding out of the rubber. Can anyone shed any light please

[bladerunner]

Not really good photos most of them. I'd be unhappy about the screw being left like that if you'd asked for it to be done tho! Kickstart spring looks ok to me if it's under tension and resin on the oil injector should be fine if done correctly....bearings can sound gritty if he cleaned them in a parts washer before the rebuild....you seem to be finding a lot of problems for just having taken the clutch cover off then re using a gasket! I'm left wondering why you didn't rebuild the engine yourself if you have such high standards! As for the pv....hmm did you have a steel liner fitted? And the pv gears have a habit of shearing on these if tight so I would be wanting them free and smooth!
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Thanks for the reply & sorry about pictures . Thats whats baffling me if he has replaced the mains like i said how has he got the screw back in and tight other than heating it possibly? The kickstart spring is under tension as it should be just seemed jump out its slot when kick lever was pushed all the way down in its momentum. I didnt rebuild it as didnt have case seperator and didnt want cause damage. He gave me two bearings back which seem be used & not the brand new ones i gave him but i dont trust anybody. The clutch cover was oven baked to replace the mechanical seal, back up seal and bearings which has been done, then sprayed in black but seems he did it with oil filler cap off and abit got inside should i worry about this? How come the clutch cover has the slit in window rather than other one on last picture i added to this any ideas?. And it already had a steel liner fitted just got him do a rebore which seems to be done well looking through the exhaust port

[bladerunner]

That screw looks like it was never removed due to its condition. If a shop or specialist rebuild I would have expected any builder to have mentioned it even if you hadn't asked for it to be done! Maybe it was possible to split the cases anyhow as the other side of the selector drum is just a slide in fit on the other side I expect. With any rebuild I fill with fresh gearbox oil and coolant....let the motor do 3 heat cycles ie...run it till warm and let it cool completely then repeat just to make sure no leaks or the such then give it a days use and drain the gearbox oil and inspect for debris and refil with fresh oil again and good to go. With the steel liner you'll have to run it in vs the plated bore which does not really need it. As for the kickstart spring issue...if it was still under tension when you took the cover off then it sounds ok....if the kmx is like my kdx then they are known to sometimes be a bit iffy Engaging the kickstart gears ie slip if you don't run thin oil in the gearbox...one of mine is not an issue but the other does it with std 10/40 oils unless you prod the kickstart to engage the ratchet first! Seems not to do it with thinner Light gear oil tho! I'll be interested in knowing how you get on with the steel liner as both my KDX200's are on original plated bores and am interested in the 240cc big bore that can be done with a steel liner!
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Yes thats what i thought, he took pictures of the rebuild but funnily enough had "got halfway through before took pics" and only ones were of top half attached to this post. I appreciate your input and will do the 3 heat cycles without a doubt, it is unlikely hes opened the cases at all but a possibility with the old seals and bearings come back but they could be out of another kmx im guessing. Im gonna contact him and say im not happy but guessing be best to say i put engine in frame and run it but powervalves were a miss rather than i opened the cover because didnt trust him & may make the work he done void if i could take it to small claims court if it came to it? I paid him £150 labour + spent over £300 on all the genuine parts its not something i can afford to do again. Any ideas why the clutch cover has that slit in ? Thanks again

[stevo as b4]

Was this a professional re-build by a well known firm, or a mate/mechanic friend doing you a favour etc?

I agreed with bladerunner that the pics were hard to make out, but also that if you want something done properly and to a high standard, you need to either employ someone you trust/has a very good reputation. (usually expensive).

Or you supervise the work going on and watch, or simply you do it all yourself.

I've known people have re-bores and crank re-grinds done, and the dimensions the machine shop have worked to are either wrong for the shells/Pistons etc or they have caused damage to something else doing the work. Many people have re-built engines straight from the machine shop, to find they either smoke, knock or go bang, because they have not checked the clearances after machining before re-building it all etc.

You might as well sort your clutch cover out, and then try the motor out in the bike and see how it goes. You have no idea of if it's a good or bad re-build other than by trying it really.

Don't go back complaining saying you took 1/2 the motor apart to check his workmanship, and that you didn't trust him, as it won't get you anywhere, and he could blame any problems on your work and not his.

[Medicinal_Motocross]

Hi, yes its basically a business who breaks bikes by me more than anything quite a old guy so i thought yeah he knows his stuff. 13000 + feedback on ebay for service but he does it from his garage at home which i thought bonus be cheaper and the rebores on a miniature lathe but it seemed all genuine to me. I have a receipt clearly stating rebore, new mains and seals ect ect. Im just going have to like you say check how it runs in the bike what should i listen out for? As is 25000 miles on the clock and i doubt if the main bearings and seals havent been done they wont be lasting over 30000 road miles am i correct? I was thinking of heating the clutch cover with a blow lamp if i can get one cheap & replace the covers power valve actuator bearing as it feels slightly stiff along with the engines pv actuator bearing would a camping kind of stove gas bottle with a blow lamp end on (which i have one similar) do the trick?