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| Phil D |
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 Phil D Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 30 Jul 2014 Karma :    
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 Posted: 14:15 - 30 Jul 2014 Post subject: Respraying my bike with Rattle Cans |
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After I've sorted out a few more issues with my newest steed I'm probably going to respray the tank, front mudguard and rear cowl in black. The tank is a bit beat up from various drops from the previous owner (cheers mate!) the worst of which is below:
https://s9.postimg.org/sgmkmg9wf/image.jpg
Although there are a few others and a small bit of surface rust.
As there are small bits of surface rust do I need to strip it back to bare metal or can I just sand back the affected areas and do some spot rustproofing/etch priming/filling?
Im looking at either a matte or satin black paint job with a matte clear coat. Im sure the standard acrylic based halford rattle cans will do for the plastics but for the tank is there any sort of rattle can paint that will give some resistance to petrol?
Any recommendations for brands of stuff to use? |
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| Efes123 |
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 Efes123 World Chat Champion

Joined: 08 Sep 2011 Karma :   
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 Posted: 14:19 - 30 Jul 2014 Post subject: |
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| Phil D |
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 Phil D Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 30 Jul 2014 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:30 - 30 Jul 2014 Post subject: |
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From what i've read matt black is the easiest paint to get a decent looking finish with as its very forgiving. Doesn't seem anything that comes out of a rattle can is going to be resistant to any sort of petrol splashes so i may just do away with the lacquer all together so i can touch up when necessary! |
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| TUG |
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 TUG World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 May 2007 Karma :  
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 Posted: 20:11 - 30 Jul 2014 Post subject: |
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Nothing says I've crashed it and I'm cheap more than matt black! Also you can't clean it properly petrol will eat through it like a fat kid and a chocolate cake. I was going to rattle can my ER-5 but because of reasons, I'm just going to send the panels off to be sprayed in Yam pearl white and save myself the hassle, there is a place by me that is relatively cheap so why the fuck not.
Jokes aside, whats wrong with having the ding filled in, then etching primer 2 coats, then spray away, smooth off with wet and dry then lacquer, smooth that off for a nice shine, I'm led to believe this is the correct way, however I may (and probably) be incorrect. ____________________ Haz ER-5, innit! |
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| matto |
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 matto Crazy Courier
Joined: 18 Apr 2012 Karma :  
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| MartZ0r |
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 MartZ0r Nova Slayer
Joined: 24 Sep 2008 Karma :  
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| Phil D |
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 Phil D Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 30 Jul 2014 Karma :    
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| 0l0dom0l0 |
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 0l0dom0l0 World Chat Champion

Joined: 21 Oct 2009 Karma :  
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 Posted: 21:11 - 30 Jul 2014 Post subject: |
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I'd sand back the rust to bare metal and the rest of the paint back so all the dents and scrapes are out. Then fill all the bumps and scratches and re sand. Then prime and you'll probably find some more pin holes so do the same again.
You might as well go for something that will look half decent when done. Even a gloss black would be good, although gloss paint is a bit of a nightmare. Really you want to spray the paint then sand it back to get a key and lacquer with a petrol proof lacquer. Once lacquered to get a good finish you need to cut back and polish.
Not using a lacquer is just a waste of time. If you've done all the prep the hassle of painting, the lacquer is the easy bit in terms of the time it takes. If you do it properly you shouldn't need to touch it up.
Otherwise if you don't, you'll forever be 'touching it up'.
Painting is one of those things you do once and do properly. After you've sanded, prepped and attempted to paint something once you'll understand why. It takes forever and is just easier to do properly once. ____________________ CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.
Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30. |
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| Shaft |
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 Shaft World Chat Champion

Joined: 27 Dec 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 21:13 - 30 Jul 2014 Post subject: |
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| Phil D wrote: |
From what i've read matt black is the easiest paint to get a decent looking finish with as its very forgiving. Doesn't seem anything that comes out of a rattle can is going to be resistant to any sort of petrol splashes so i may just do away with the lacquer all together so i can touch up when necessary! |
I don't know what you've been reading, but the only good thing about black is it's coverage (you can pretty easily bury any colour under it) but I guarantee any proper painter wouldn't describe it as unforgiving.
It shows imperfections more readily than any other colour, so you had better be sure your preparation is perfect, because anything that isn't will stick out like a sore thumb.
Similarly, any bits of dust or crap that settle after painting will look like boulders and if your painting technique isn't the best, you will know all about it.
Some of that isn't a problem with a gloss finish, because you can dump it on and take care of it afterwards with flatting and polishing, but of course you can't polish matte paint, so if you bugger it up, you're starting again.
So actually, matte black is probably the worst colour you could choose, if you want it to look really good (incidentally, my painter who has been doing it for 35 years, won't do matte black repaints, because it's too much aggro). ____________________ Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
WooHoo, I'm a Man Point Millionaire! https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=234035 |
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| matto |
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 matto Crazy Courier
Joined: 18 Apr 2012 Karma :  
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| Intruder_Andy |
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 Intruder_Andy Two Stroke Sniffer
Joined: 23 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 151 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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