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Brake pads, what to get

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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 08 Jul 2014    Post subject: Brake pads, what to get Reply with quote

I'm not far off needing new brake pads for my 535. She's a 1992 so the fitting is FA136, there is not much choice. EBC HH are not available.

known availability:

EBC FA136 (Organic/aramid)
Ferodo FDB591P Plantinum (organic)

and via eBay
Brembo 'blue' (carbon ceramic)
Kyoto (organic)
Carbon Lorraine Reflex (sintered)
Galfer HH (only HH pads I can find)
Vesrah (organic)
Armstong (organic)
edit: Goldfren AD (carbon ceramic, S3 or S33 compounds do not appear to be available)

I really liked the feel of the goldfren AD (ceramic carbon I think) on my GZ, felt really confident with them and never locked the front outside of finding the limits of emergency stop on private land, better than the ferodo platinums they replaced. Hated the Kyoto pads I put on the first GZ, no feel, worse than ferodo platinums.

My riding is mostly urban by requirement, often in the rain, with much exploring of local back roads if i have a free half hour, and some longer trips, usually with heavy luggage.

From the state of my front tyre it's safe to say I'm exploring a good deal of what my brakes can do.

So... Ferodo are the safe bet, but tempted by the brembos.

Anyone have any relevant thoughts?
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Last edited by talkToTheHat on 00:29 - 10 Jul 2014; edited 1 time in total
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Robby
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 09 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's not much in it. Goldfren HH pads work well and are cheap, not sure how long they last though. They seem to start off quite thin.

Cheap organic pads (vesrah/kyoto) are often shit. You get what you pay for.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 09 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the goldrfen HH pads the S3 / S33 branded items? After much searching all I can find are the 'AD' in my fitting, which is the least sporty.
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Last edited by talkToTheHat on 00:23 - 10 Jul 2014; edited 1 time in total
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 09 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

talkToTheHat wrote:
sporty

talkToTheHat wrote:
XV535


I don't think that you're really looking for the right things in your brake pad selection criteria.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 09 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

XV535... and you're worried about brake pad feel?

Keep drinking that kool-aid! Wink
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 09 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something HH rated and sintered is ideal. I'd choose a well known brand of pads and not some cheap as possible ones.

I've always to a point found sintered pads to give a sharper initial bite, and stronger braking until you get them too hot! I would say that it does not matter what your bike is, you want the best strongest braking you can get, and things like pad noise or disc wear rates should for the majority of bikers not come into it.

If your only concerned with preserving a set of discs for as long as possible then your priorities are wrong unless good brakes is not something you need or feel are important.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 10 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry I don't fit the cruiser riding stereotype by bolting decorative shiny things onto my bike in order to make it less fast.

Strangely I want my slow old bike to stop in a controlled a manner as possible in the minimum possible distance.

I asked on here because I have not found anything that marked HH that fits the 87->95 model years' front calliper from a brand whose reputation I know.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 10 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not do the obvious thing and stick with the brand and type of pads that you've had a good experience of, then? The reason you can't find HH rated pads for your bike is that they're designed for bikes that have a much higher power to weight ratio than your virago. You don't have to worry about bleeding off ~120mph in short order, so you don't need HH rated pads. GG should be more than sufficient, and I believe that the goldfren AD pads you've found are to that spec.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 10 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

talkToTheHat wrote:

Strangely I want my slow old bike to stop in a controlled a manner as possible in the minimum possible distance.


You are aware that the rake angle of a cruiser makes this statement redundant? I assume you're aware that a component of the braking force goes into pushing the front tyre rather than pressing it down on the surface of the road reducing grip?

If you want a bike to stop properly, buy one with a sensibly designed geometry and not one designed for looks.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 10 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strangely, I know a little bit about vehicle dynamics and braking systems. May have paid some attention to those bits whilst I at that end of the faculty of engineering. They were actually interesting.

What I don't have is a decent knowledge of the real world performance of commercial friction compounds. Yes, I've put fresh pads on both the Suzuki GZ125s I've owned, disliked one set, liked the other. When I started the topic I couldn't find Goldfren AD pads to fit.

It's tempting to get my hands on the 1996 onwards twin-pot calliper, as replacement discs are cheaper. Not sure on whether they changed the fork lowers or wheel centres at the same time so some research required. Then everything becomes available.

Given that I appear to prefer carbon-ceramic over EBC and Ferodo organics and the budget organics can be ruled out, how about I try a simpler question:

Goldfren AD or Brembo 09
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 10 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Caliper upgrade possible? maybe off something more sporty which would have more choice of pads?
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Conzar
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 10 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

INB4
https://oi59.tinypic.com/290q04z.jpg https://images.motorcyclecruiser.com/roadtests/250s-AC-crash2-lg.jpg
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 10 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
You are aware that the rake angle of a cruiser makes this statement redundant? I assume you're aware that a component of the braking force goes into pushing the front tyre rather than pressing it down on the surface of the road reducing grip?

The only extra surface-normal force you get from this is the bike actually rotating around the front wheel's contact patch (and forcing the cog to rise). In other words, you can't use this extra downforce until you're almost already stopped, or while the front suspension hasn't yet reached the limit of its travel for the forces involved (which is just another way of talking about the rotation of the bike's central mass).

When the bike's mass is not rotating, there's no difference. A bike geometry that puts more weight on the front correspondingly puts less weight on the rear. Any extra braking effect that can be gotten from the front simply means less braking effect can be gotten from the rear.

The cruiser geometry would benefit more from ABS though, as the front will slide more easily, while the rear needs to do actual useful braking at the limit.
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Bunny Lingus
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PostPosted: 02:05 - 11 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sintered pads eat brake discs. Just buy some bog standard EBCs & bed 'em in nicely & they will stop you wayyy beyond the capability of your tyre in all situations & last longer than the others. Look after your discs by not buying abrasive pads or its a catch 22 moneypit - worn discs make worn pads real quick, like two weeks quick...
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evoboy
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 11 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bunny Lingus wrote:
Sintered pads eat brake discs. Just buy some bog standard EBCs & bed 'em in nicely & they will stop you wayyy beyond the capability of your tyre in all situations & last longer than the others. Look after your discs by not buying abrasive pads or its a catch 22 moneypit - worn discs make worn pads real quick, like two weeks quick...


70k on my old zx6 on the stock discs having run sintered SBS pads from 20k and the discs were still within spec and not warped. The bike was used on track many times too.

EBC Organic or Sintered are terrible in terms of bite. So much so, my ZRX came with new ones fitted. Ran them for 500miles and binned them for new SBS ones. Instantly transformed from somthing that took a fist full to get it to stop to only needing one finger to stop from motorway speeds.

Out of the ones listed, Id go for the CL or Galfer pads.
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Slacker24seve...
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 11 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bunny Lingus wrote:
Sintered pads eat brake discs. Just buy some bog standard EBCs & bed 'em in nicely & they will stop you wayyy beyond the capability of your tyre in all situations & last longer than the others. Look after your discs by not buying abrasive pads or its a catch 22 moneypit - worn discs make worn pads real quick, like two weeks quick...


Says who? Urban myth I'm afraid. See here:

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=3927474

And look at the amount of trackday riders who brake much, much harder than road riders with sintered pads (especially on old knackered 90s track bikes) that don't eat or warp discs.

Re: OP's pads, I would have thought that the geometry of a 535 would mean it would be very difficult to distinguish between the bite and feel of one pad over another. Just put some EBCs in and be done with it.
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Bunny Lingus
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 11 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

evoboy wrote:
Bunny Lingus wrote:
Sintered pads eat brake discs. Just buy some bog standard EBCs & bed 'em in nicely & they will stop you wayyy beyond the capability of your tyre in all situations & last longer than the others. Look after your discs by not buying abrasive pads or its a catch 22 moneypit - worn discs make worn pads real quick, like two weeks quick...


70k on my old zx6 on the stock discs having run sintered SBS pads from 20k and the discs were still within spec and not warped. The bike was used on track many times too.

EBC Organic or Sintered are terrible in terms of bite. So much so, my ZRX came with new ones fitted. Ran them for 500miles and binned them for new SBS ones. Instantly transformed from somthing that took a fist full to get it to stop to only needing one finger to stop from motorway speeds.

Out of the ones listed, Id go for the CL or Galfer pads.


70k? You done well. My VTR front discs were tin foil in half that Sad but then so was the head bearings, the chain, both sprockets & my wallet. My 1100 slabside (which I still have), ate a pair of All Bike's discs so quick that I swapped the lot out for genuine Suzi ones & some butch Nissin calipers & adaptor plates to fit 'em. Now it just eats pads & tyres & chains, so much so, that I don't ride it. Its in the shed & it can sodding well stay there.
I have a C90! Not the camp US style cruiser thing, a proper C90 economy with leg shields & electric start so I don't even have to think about brakes or any other consumables for the forseeable. In fact I have three of 'em & a CB100n - all built/being built from junk & eBay. Ain't into big bikes at the moment. Haven't been for a while. They are too expensive to run as a courier. Worked out I'm saving at least two hundred quid a month before I factor in speeding fines, parking tickets, insurance hikes & I only work part time.

Slacker, all pads wear discs mate. Sintered pads just wear 'em out more.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 11 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Armstrong HH pads for me. Thumbs Up
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 01:57 - 12 Jul 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 1996 onwards XV has a different disk and a twin-pot calliper. Not sure if that's all I need to swap. A much better selection of pads including EBC HH and Goldfren S3/S33 pads are available. Is that a v-max I see? I think the right hand calliper is I think the same part.

A venhill brake line and a thorough service of the calliper did a lot for the brake feel, as did servicing the forks. Almost everything I do in terms of planned maintenance makes the bike feel less vague. That has to be a step in the right direction.

Goldfren AD available locally for pocket change, will see if they brighten my day. Will research the 96 front end swap.
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