Uneven pad wear?

[Beehive Bedlam]

My rear pads on my Varadero are wearing unevenly the right is now almost shot what is the issue here?

My intentions are to replace them this morning at some point I will take pictures of the pads and the calliper then upload them.

[yen_powell]

Sliding pins not moving freely.
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Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[wr6133]

Weld them on.

Or just use the R6 instead.

[gbrand42]

I had this on mine, clean the slider pin, lubricate with your lube of choice (something high temp & rubber-friendly) I use silicon grease personally. And the usual check that the piston is clean & free to move. Make sure the rubber boot on the slider is not damaged in any way. New pads and jobs a good un. Oh and back wheel has to come off to remove caliper.
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Yamaha RD50M, Honda C90, Yamaha RS100, Yamaha RD125LC, Honda XL125 V9 Varadero, Honda NT700VA, Honda VFR800X, Honda CRF1000L, Honda ST1300 Pan European

[Llama-Farmer]

Yeah sounds like the sliding pin is not slidy... brake dust can stick to it and prevent the pads freely moving.

Brake cleaner and cotton buds may clean up the majority without having to remove anything, but best option is to remove caliper, pads and pin and clean the lot with brake cleaner.

Partially press out the piston in the caliper, not fully out but mostly out and clean that up so it's silver and shiny again as that gets caked in dust which makes it rough and can wear the seal quicker, then grease up the pins and reassemble it back together.


Depending how cheap the pads are and how worn they actually are, maybe worth just replacing them with new ones at the same time.
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Current Bike: 1999 Honda CB600 FX Hornet
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[Beehive Bedlam]

Changed them this morning a ride to Grassington see my lonely lover has worn them in nicely.

I couldn't separate the bracket from the calliper to lubricated the sliding pin though it is seized solid after an hour I gave up and put the wheel back on which is always a cow.

I believe something else is also missing from the calliper but can not identify it ignore the bent retainer clip it does the job.


https://oi58.tinypic.com/xys6h.jpg

[TUG]

Please sell all your bikes and notify the DVLA you are unfit to own a vehicle.
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Haz ER-5, innit!

[gbrand42]

[Kickstart]

[gbrand42]

I think you might be missing the rubber boot on the slider pin, which would explain the sticking caliper. New boot and a damn good clean up of the pin with some lubrication required I think. Thats if it hasn't already corroded up tight to the point of no return.

And a valve cap for that tyre too. And as you have already spotted, the pad spring is fubar.

On a positive note, the pads look good and the piston is not bad.
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Yamaha RD50M, Honda C90, Yamaha RS100, Yamaha RD125LC, Honda XL125 V9 Varadero, Honda NT700VA, Honda VFR800X, Honda CRF1000L, Honda ST1300 Pan European

[Beehive Bedlam]

Correct Keith well done that is why it munched through the last set so fast yet the front are less than half way to the wear markers I replaced them at the same time front and rear a couple of months ago.

The boot seal does indeed appear to be missing gband42 part number; thirteen is this tiny expensive bit of rubber really going to get the slider pin to move? Because brute force certainly didn't.

I'd be so lucky to find the boot seal and retaining pin on ebay If I went down that road I bet a gold pig I will have to pay Honda's premium price tag that comes to a total of £8.89 for both parts plus £5.50 shipping.

I will leave it for now and keep an eye out for a replacement calliper as the piston has seen better days anyway it isn't blinding to the point of being an annoyance every MPH matters and I'd tell straight away. I think it is just half a brake which doesn't bother me either because it is a slow 125 engine braking is massive and finally it's the rear brake.

[TUG]

You don't get it do you, you really fucking don't understand the basics of maintenance! If you leave that caliper like it is then it will warp your disc, then you will need to spend money on getting a new one of those too and if the heat generated is strong enough to get to the bearings, it will slowly fuck those up too.

Stop being a stupid cunt, book it into a workshop because we all fucking know it's beyond you to do the simple job of lubing up that slide and replace the boot which prevents it from seizing in the first place.
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Haz ER-5, innit!

[Beehive Bedlam]

[gbrand42]

Is it worth having a look at that CBR caliper you have got to see if the slider and rubber seal is the same? You never know your luck, and if they are in good condition might save you a bob or 2.

If the caliper is seized on the slider, try a shit load of plus-gas over night to see if it can penetrate. Don't take a lump hammer to it.
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Yamaha RD50M, Honda C90, Yamaha RS100, Yamaha RD125LC, Honda XL125 V9 Varadero, Honda NT700VA, Honda VFR800X, Honda CRF1000L, Honda ST1300 Pan European

[Beehive Bedlam]

[_Iain_]

[Beehive Bedlam]

[_Iain_]

[Beehive Bedlam]

[TUG]

[mattsmith95]

[Ballpien]

[bikertomm]

[gbrand42]

[gbrand42]