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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Cant' find the problem Reply with quote

Hello everyone.
I hope before I'll take my bike to the local stealer to find a solution. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.
I've got a FZ6 2005. Lately the bike wouldn't start randomly. Sometimes error 12 would pop up on the screen. Until last week when it didn't start at all. In all of this I've been always able to bump start it. even now that looks completely dead. so I:
Replaced the oil, cleaned the spark plugs, recharged the battery (now showing around 12.77 13+ if I turn the engine on (when I was able to. now it's totally dead)), checked the Crank position sensor with a multimeter (error 12 that's what the manual says) and it shows me 309 (should be between 248 372), I found the crank shaft breather tube detached from the air filter so I cleaned it up (there was a white foam in it). I removed my power commander but the bike still not starting. Only thing I can see, when i turn the ignition on, the PC after flashing all the light does not keep the last green bar on as it used to.
When i start the bike from the starter button I can hear the click but then the engine light comes on and that's it. nothing else happens. In the diagnostic mode I get dg02 16 and 03 101. I know it should be 100 but does that only means that the bike is running a bit richer then it should?
I can't picture out what the hell is it wrong with it. Especially cause it did start again for 2 days and it died again today.
If someone has any idea or any clue please let me know.
Thanks.
Mike.
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gavbriggs
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds to me that your battery is fooked. Have it tested, or replace it for the price they cost.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

gavbriggs wrote:
Sounds to me that your battery is fooked. Have it tested, or replace it for the price they cost.

thanks, I've got the same slight suspicion too but why would it show 12.77? that's not fully but almost fully charged.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

When not under load.

Borrow a battery and see if that sorts it? Jump leads to the connectors if you can't get it near enough.

A flat battery wrecked the electrics on my car, it's not something I'd dick around with any more.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
When not under load.

Borrow a battery and see if that sorts it? Jump leads to the connectors if you can't get it near enough.

A flat battery wrecked the electrics on my car, it's not something I'd dick around with any more.


sadly I don't know anyone with a battery. I read somewhere that if you start the bike and the meter goes under 8 or 9 then the battery is fucked. Problem is I can't start the bike now.
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200939242957
what about this? anyone has had experience with aftermarket ones. Are they worth it?
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Thorn This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thorn wrote:
Would advise getting a Motobatt or Yuasa


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yuasa-YT12B-BS-Battery-Yamaha-600-FZ6-All-Models-05-12-/281422747414?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item41861a5716

I apologies for going a bit off topic here but what do they mean with activating the battery pack? I thought you just buy one and install it in place of the old one.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opeth wrote:
Thorn wrote:
Would advise getting a Motobatt or Yuasa


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yuasa-YT12B-BS-Battery-Yamaha-600-FZ6-All-Models-05-12-/281422747414?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item41861a5716

I apologies for going a bit off topic here but what do they mean with activating the battery pack? I thought you just buy one and install it in place of the old one.


Not with lead acid batteries like the one linked. Grab a motobatt, they come charged and sealed. Just swap them over and done.
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gavbriggs
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Without a reliable battery you cannot eliminate other things and you will benefit from a new battery, it's not like you won't use it.

You could also check all connections, remember there will be a starter solenoid somewhere too.

I suspect though with the spurious faults that are coming up a new battery will solve it all.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

gavbriggs wrote:
Without a reliable battery you cannot eliminate other things and you will benefit from a new battery, it's not like you won't use it.

You could also check all connections, remember there will be a starter solenoid somewhere too.

I suspect though with the spurious faults that are coming up a new battery will solve it all.


Thanks I'll buy a new one. I was hesitant cause I don't want to waste 50£ if that's not the problem. I went out now to check it again. it was 12.54 and 12.25 with ignition on. So it seems is dying fast. The only thing I'm still puzzled about is why the power commander does not show the green fuel bar as it used to. I bump started it now, looked under at it and sure there was the green light on. turned off the engine. restarted (just the ignition on cause the bike still won't start) and no green bar on when it should have been. I'm worried could be a fuel pump problem (but I can hear the fuel ignition working). anyway as you said I need a new batter. better 50£ there then take it to the dealer.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEOCH-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-GEL-BATTERY-YAMAHA-FZ6-2004-07-3-YEAR-WARRANTY-/360965237511?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item540b346b07

Has anyone heard of them? 3 years warranty seems good.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it started for 2 days after a charge-up but then didn't I'd check the charging voltage at 5k revs. Might be the battery is ok but the charging system isn't.
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opeth wrote:


Get out of the habit fast of trawling Ebay for cheap shit for your bike - Get the best parts you can afford, dont autmatically go for the cheapeast.

Google Wemoto for some decent online deals that get delivered quick.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 30 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok this is what happened today. I've run more checks while I wait for a new battery.
I charged the battery overnight.
the bike started. So I decide to see if there was a leak in the system and if something was draining power from it.
When I attached the multimeter (negative to negative and positive to negative lead) at first I got random reading until it stabilizes around 2.3 2.6. So I started taking out the fuses one by one until I found the culprit ( or I thought I did) : the back up fuse.
Problem is the back up fuse is supposed to connect only the odometer and the clock but if I remove and turn on the ignition key nothing happens. not injection, no screen, nothing except the neutral gear light on.
I tried to disconnect every cable I could see and take new readings but was the same.
So I reconnected it and tried to start the bike. Nothing. Fuel pump works, everything works, click from the start button but the engine won't start. red light on dashboard.
So I did something I read somewhere, time ago. I put in first gear, then release the clutch, move it back and forth and try a couple of time. Clutch on and bang... the Bike starts.
WTF is going on? I read this in a forum about the crank position system. But as I said before I've checked the sensor and is ok. Also there is no error 12 now.
In all this to recap: the battery shows 12.79 ignition off. 12.45 ignition on. 13.85 or a bit more (don't remember exactly right now) at 5000 rev. I'm lost.
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 30 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a feeling you're making it more complicated that it needs to be. Wait for the new battery, check to make sure the battery is charging after you install it and start the bike.

You're testing your bike with a potentially fucked battery. Pointless.
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Eddie Hitler
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 30 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, and I forgot to mention.

https://i.imgur.com/svc38j0.jpg
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 30 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pins wrote:
I have a feeling you're making it more complicated that it needs to be. Wait for the new battery, check to make sure the battery is charging after you install it and start the bike.

You're testing your bike with a potentially fucked battery. Pointless.


My concern is: what if I install the battery and cause there is a leak it gets fucked after few days?
Shocked
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Sload
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 30 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meshuggah wrote:
Pins wrote:
I have a feeling you're making it more complicated that it needs to be. Wait for the new battery, check to make sure the battery is charging after you install it and start the bike.

You're testing your bike with a potentially fucked battery. Pointless.


My concern is: what if I install the battery and cause there is a leak it gets fucked after few days?
Shocked


A brand spanker discharged battery should be easily recoverable after only a few days not that it should be that bad. When you try to fault find an issue you really need to start from firm foundation, that meaning that you need to ensure certain aspects are in order to determine the genuine issue. A knackered battery (a consumable item) on the other hand could screw up the results and thus yours and others determination in trying to locate the actual issue.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 04 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

just to update on the situation in case someone else has a similar problem. Went for a long ride today and the bike now starts super fine. I suppose may have been the spark plugs that need to be auto cleaned or the battery. Anyway tomorrow I'll install the new battery, new set of spark plugs and fix few other things around. I'll update the post in few days. thanks again to all your replies.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 14 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed the new battery, the new spark plugs and everything looked fine for few days. Then I felt the battrey was getting weaker. I wasn't sure 100% but I had that feeling. Today the bike wouldn't start again. bloody random.
Click, engine light on, nothing.
Click, start.
click, engine light on. nothing. Put in first gear, rock it back and forth, release clutch (fuel pump engages again), clutch in, bike starts.
Sometimes same as above bike won't start.
Took battery out. charged for few hours. it seems to be starting all the times now.
Will see tomorrow morning what the fuck happens when I have to go to work early.
If I check for battery leak, negative cable out. multimeter set to amps. negative multimeter probe attached to negative battery, and positive probe to the negative disconnected lead from the battery, the reading is 0.25 /0.26. If I remove the back up fuse then the drain is 0. Problem is in the manual the back up fuse is suppose to be used only for the clock and odometer but If i remove mine the whole bike does not power up. at all. no screen no nothing.
is it normal or do I have a parasitic drain? I have no alarms, just a power commander.
Mad
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Jim Mc
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 14 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

250mA sounds like quite a lot of drain considering my trickle charger only puts 140mA into the battery. I also have an alarm on my bike and it will deplete the battery within a week unless I keep it hooked up to a charger.

Plus I guess if your bike runs fine once started it's not going to be the alternator.

Apparently if you let a lead acid battery go to under 11v you risk ruining it due to sulphation. The Chemicals inside the battery crystalise and as a result the battery will only hold a reduced charge and if the sulphur crystalises in the porous cell plates it can expand and crack the plates.

My old battery would show 12.4V but discharge immediately on cranking and my trickle charger has a desuplhation mode but was not able to recover the battery.

I would put your battey on a solid 8 hour charge and see how it goes and buy a trickle charger to keep it topped up during periods when you're not riding it to prevent the alarm from harming the battery.
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Meshuggah
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PostPosted: 05:57 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim Mc wrote:
250mA sounds like quite a lot of drain considering my trickle charger only puts 140mA into the battery. I also have an alarm on my bike and it will deplete the battery within a week unless I keep it hooked up to a charger.

Plus I guess if your bike runs fine once started it's not going to be the alternator.

Apparently if you let a lead acid battery go to under 11v you risk ruining it due to sulphation. The Chemicals inside the battery crystalise and as a result the battery will only hold a reduced charge and if the sulphur crystalises in the porous cell plates it can expand and crack the plates.

My old battery would show 12.4V but discharge immediately on cranking and my trickle charger has a desuplhation mode but was not able to recover the battery.

I would put your battey on a solid 8 hour charge and see how it goes and buy a trickle charger to keep it topped up during periods when you're not riding it to prevent the alarm from harming the battery.


I've got one of those gel battery. The battery is new and never went under 12.45/40 as far as I've seen. Also I've got a tickle charger but in all those years I've had the bike and with the previous battery installed, I had never have to charge them once. ( I read they should be charged once a month)I use the bike daily, come wind rain or snow I need to go to work with it. That's what also is making me going mental. not knowing in the morning if it will start or not. I need to find a way to understand where those 0.25 drain comes from. At first I thought it was the alarm. I had one, but with no fuse on it and not connected. I removed it completely yesterday. still the same 0.25 showing up.... Mad
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 07:49 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try disconnecting the alternator - there's usually 3 yellow wires coming from the casing that you can trace to a connector - and check again for current drain.

If your reg/rec is starting to go faulty, current can leak back into the alternator windings which would account for a 250ma drain.

In some cases, you can actually feel the alternator cover getting slightly warm after the bike has been parked overnight.
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't quite followed your tale, but if it starts sometimes then randomly not - have you checked for a starter motor issue including loose connections to it?
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 15 Sep 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set multimeter to Volts, DC volts, not the ~ logo.

Start bike, check battery at ~5k rpm.

If it isn't around 14v then I'd say there is a problem.
If its 15v+ then sounds like your regulator is gone.
If its not heading much above 12.9, alternator may be toast.

Those are the checks I would do with a fully charged battery.

Let us know the voltages from those above.
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