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Wiring in voltage meter thingy..

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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Wiring in voltage meter thingy.. Reply with quote

So just bought one of these badboys

as i have a feeling my battery is losing the will to live

how would i go about wiring it up?

ideally i only want it on, when the ignition is on, an also what do i do with the 3rd wire!?
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black to earth, red to switched live, yellow to battery live. At a guess. If you're feeling posh, pop a fuse on the red wire too.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you seen these ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GAMMATRONIX-waterproof-12v-LED-Battery-level-Alternator-Charge-monitor-E-/190462726857?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c587692c9
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Aff
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should have bought a smaller range one, then they can be powered by the voltage they are reading.

If you go and buy one of smaller range ones you can just wire it into a switched 12v on your ignition/dash and any ground.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are sure its waterproof?
I have three very similar ones I bought for a project and wouldn't class them as waterproof.
If in doubt, clear nail varnish on the front and Vaseline on the back
and in the cracks is cheap way to keep the weather out

They're ok and certainly cheap, but not particularly accurate.
They'll follow a good meter to 0.1v or so which to be fair is probably ok for bike use.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bear in mind.
These gadgets are handy for showing you running and charge voltage
but wont be a definitive indicator of battery health.
A bad battery may appear to be getting a charge, but can still be
failing internally.
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instigator
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:


Anyone tried this??
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

instigator wrote:


No and I don't know why anyone would bother.

Does it give you a decent reading, does it tell you when your reg rec has failed and you are jamming 20v into your battery or when another charging fault has occurred so you aren't getting over 12v.

I like to know what my bike is getting and when so I can stop before the damage happens.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Bear in mind.
These gadgets are handy for showing you running and charge voltage
but wont be a definitive indicator of battery health.
A bad battery may appear to be getting a charge, but can still be
failing internally.


I cant think of many situations where a permanent voltage readout wouldn't help catch something going on with the battery.

Bad battery - you will typically see low voltages in the morning or big voltage drops when cranking.

Bad reg rec/alternator - high or low running voltage.

Mine has saved me loads of times, even for stuff not related to the battery.

I caught a rad fan just as it was about to die because I could see it drawing loads of current (made the voltage drop about 3V, compared to the fans usual 0.7V).

And it has saved my wiring from 2 overcharging reg recs.
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instigator
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
does it tell you when your reg rec has failed and you are jamming 20v into your battery or when another charging fault has occurred so you aren't getting over 12v.


Yes. Apparently it does. Rolling Eyes
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers all

so whats the third wire for?

anyone any ideas?
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Aff
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

mudcow007 wrote:
cheers all

so whats the third wire for?

anyone any ideas?


The large range ones can't regulate the higher voltages down to whatever is required to run its IC, so its needs a separate power source to power the thing up.

So it will be a ground wire, a sense wire (where ever you want to read the 12V from) and a power wire (something between 3.5-30V).

Because you are only reading 12V you should be able to connect the sense and power to the same place (I had one do funny things wen I tried this though, however others have been fine).
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh, so if i run black to earth, red to switched live an sense to battery would that be more accurate?
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

instigator wrote:
Paddy. wrote:
does it tell you when your reg rec has failed and you are jamming 20v into your battery or when another charging fault has occurred so you aren't getting over 12v.


Yes. Apparently it does. Rolling Eyes


A - Its far too small.
B - Being colour blind wouldn't be a great triumph.
C - Have you tried to view a row of LEDs in daylight, let alone a single one.

What I'm getting at is it may go AH ITS RED, ALL RED, PANIC!!!! when it could just say 12.1V which means I'd pop the seat off and check terminals rather than going on a hunt. Voltage in numbers = win, voltage on a single LED, still LOADS of guess work, that is if you even see it.

99p for the superior option Neutral or £12 for something you'll not notice.
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instigator
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
A - Its far too small.
B - Being colour blind wouldn't be a great triumph.
C - Have you tried to view a row of LEDs in daylight, let alone a single one.

What I'm getting at is it may go AH ITS RED, ALL RED, PANIC!!!! when it could just say 12.1V which means I'd pop the seat off and check terminals rather than going on a hunt. Voltage in numbers = win, voltage on a single LED, still LOADS of guess work, that is if you even see it.


Aren't you colour blind? With a naked bike (no plastics to fix the LED to). On a bike that has a portable disco? (rev counter has lots of blue LED's). In your case, yes - this may not be the perfect product. I quite agree Laughing But for most others, it'll be just fine and dandy so long as they're not stupid enough to remember what yellow/red/green colours mean.

I'll try one just cos I have money to burn and it's smaller than the other battery meters. Thumbs Up
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Aff
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

mudcow007 wrote:
oh, so if i run black to earth, red to switched live an sense to battery would that be more accurate?


Yep you wouldn't have the voltage drop up to wherever you tap the switched 12V from.

I'm lazy though and just take it all from the clocks seeing as that where I usually mount it. Just means that the meter reads about 0.4V lower than at the battery.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Aff Thumbs Up
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i.imgur.com/G5nnUQx.jpg

My one is littler and I fitted it inside my tacho housing. Uncrimped the tacho bezel, melted two holes with soldering iron and screwed in with glue as a backup.

I took the power off the pilot light for the tacho so it displays the voltage when the sidelights/headlights are on.

Be warned however that it will only show the voltage at the point of insertion, so it will show any voltage drops you might have in the wiring up to that point. For example:

Sidelights on mine reads 14.2V
Headlights on mine reads 13.6V

For both readings the actual voltage across the battery (my R/R is hardwired, with fuse, directly across battery terminals) is 14.4V in all scenarios. What is happening is the as the headlights turn on it pulls more current through all the loom, ignition switch etc etc. The high current then leads to a greater voltage drop at the point of measurement. The battery, with its heavy cables, direct to the R/R doesn't have any of these voltage drops and thus "sees" the whole 14.4V.

One thing I want to do one of these days is to install headlight relays, to get that juicy 14.4V straight across the headlight bulb terminals. Bulbs have a non-linear voltage:brightness relationship so that 0.8V from 13.6V to 14.4V will likely result in much higher brightness.

https://i.imgur.com/hBJTcOQ.png

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html


Last edited by smegballs on 16:56 - 03 Nov 2014; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did a 2-wire one and attached it into the switched live relay for my heated grips.

I mounted it in the fuse box cover using slow setting epoxy. I also clagged over the whole back of the unit with epoxy to render it weather proof.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/drumbrake/CIMG1686_zps2e9b0a95.jpg
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aff wrote:
WD Forte wrote:
Bear in mind.
These gadgets are handy for showing you running and charge voltage
but wont be a definitive indicator of battery health.
A bad battery may appear to be getting a charge, but can still be
failing internally.


I cant think of many situations where a permanent voltage readout wouldn't help catch something going on with the battery.

Bad battery - you will typically see low voltages in the morning or big voltage drops when cranking.

Bad reg rec/alternator - high or low running voltage.

Mine has saved me loads of times, even for stuff not related to the battery.

I caught a rad fan just as it was about to die because I could see it drawing loads of current (made the voltage drop about 3V, compared to the fans usual 0.7V).

And it has saved my wiring from 2 overcharging reg recs.


A voltmeter is definitely useful, I've had them on my bikes for years
but that's all it is, a voltmeter.
Just because you see a battery is getting say 14V, it doesn't mean its going to hold a charge and supply the high current needed for starting.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I just did a 2-wire one and attached it into the switched live relay for my heated grips.

I mounted it in the fuse box cover using slow setting epoxy. I also clagged over the whole back of the unit with epoxy to render it weather proof.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/drumbrake/CIMG1686_zps2e9b0a95.jpg


Mr Stinkwheel is only me that has noticed your voltmeter is called a rapi-test

is it dual function??

can it test for rapi's too?

https://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c81/mudcow007/CIMG1684_zpse1f01e2a.jpg
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
Black to earth, red to switched live, yellow to battery live.


mudcow007 wrote:
oh, so if i run black to earth, red to switched live an sense to battery would that be more accurate?


Confused
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Casper
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one built into my clocks. Not 100% accurate but gives you as close as voltage. Don't you love 80's bikes.

Laughing
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 03 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whatever happened to the Acumen DGV?
I see that the company only make the gear change indicators nowadays. The DGV, which I've got fitted to the Zed, has both gear change indicator and voltmeter which is great for monitoring both without cluttering up the dash and came with the added bonus that it was waterproof!
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