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| Marmalade |
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Marmalade
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Joined: 28 Apr 2009
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 Posted: 23:29 - 08 Feb 2015  Post subject: Pan euro electrics. |
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I fitted heated grips, charge plugs and alarm to my pan euro.
Ran it for 10 mins to make sure grips got hot etc. turned it off and refitted the panels.
Now it won't start.
It has power at ign switch, it powers lights, indicators, dash etc when on but no live to the coils, ECU, start button or fuel pump.
Putting in a temp live to the coils powers up the pump etc and it'll run.
Any suggestions?
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Nobby the Bastard: How yo tell the difference between the actual japanese and her just screaming because she's had live fish stuck up her arse? [url=https://www.nicks-shop.co.uk/bcf-goodies-15-c.aspGet BCF stickers and things here[/url] Reflective helmet stickers - Legal requirement in france - Clicky |
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| pdg |
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pdg
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| Posted: 23:34 - 08 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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Is the killswitch in the right position? 
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| Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg
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| Posted: 08:54 - 09 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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You've checked the fuses, right?
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| Taught2BCauti... |
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Taught2BCauti...
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| Posted: 10:21 - 09 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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Apart from the Kill Switch and Main Fuses, also check the 30A fuse on the Starter Relay.
The coils should get power from the ECM, so check it to see if you are getting 12V on the Black/White wire.
If not, a sensor is possible faulty - Side Stand Switch, Bank Angle Sensor Relay, Clutch Switch, or the Fuel Cut-Off Relay.
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| Skudd |
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Skudd
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| barrkel |
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barrkel
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| Posted: 11:58 - 09 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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Check main connector blocks for fried wires.
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| davebike |
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davebike
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Posted: 12:37 - 09 Feb 2015  Post subject: |
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Witch Pan?? 1100 is very different to 1300
ST1100 multi block connector in to Starter relay and main fuse on starter relay is the usual suspects
ST1300 the earthing point under the back of the tank is the common fault
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| Marmalade |
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Marmalade
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| Posted: 01:03 - 12 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| Taught2BCautious wrote: | Apart from the Kill Switch and Main Fuses, also check the 30A fuse on the Starter Relay.
The coils should get power from the ECM, so check it to see if you are getting 12V on the Black/White wire.
If not, a sensor is possible faulty - Side Stand Switch, Bank Angle Sensor Relay, Clutch Switch, or the Fuel Cut-Off Relay. |
it's in neutral so it's not stand switch, it normaly turns over when the kill switch is off so it's not the switch, same with the bank sensor, which is laying in the garden somewhere.
| Skudd wrote: | Have you done a compression test? That seems to be the new answer to anything these days.
I would disconnect all you have done and put bits on, bit by bit until the fault is found. It may just be too much stuff. fuses would be the first thing for ma as would wires in the right places. |
It was running for 10 or so mins after fitting the bits on, I turned it off to refit the panels.
| barrkel wrote: | Check main connector blocks for fried wires. |
When the main wires burn on the relay, or the 30a fuse blows, it kills everything.
The ignition comes on, the dash all works properly, headlights work, horn, brakes etc, Just no starting or turning over.
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Nobby the Bastard: How yo tell the difference between the actual japanese and her just screaming because she's had live fish stuck up her arse? [url=https://www.nicks-shop.co.uk/bcf-goodies-15-c.aspGet BCF stickers and things here[/url] Reflective helmet stickers - Legal requirement in france - Clicky |
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| barrkel |
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barrkel
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| Posted: 02:07 - 12 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| Marmalade wrote: | | barrkel wrote: | Check main connector blocks for fried wires. |
When the main wires burn on the relay, or the 30a fuse blows, it kills everything. |
A wire fried in the connector block just below the fuse box on my VFR took out the headlights - just the headlights, nothing else. Corrosion in the connector block contacts increases resistance, causes high temperatures, sparking, burns out wire. I'd be trying to isolate wires / blocks specific to the starter.
But you've been around a lot longer than me, I'm not telling you anything new.
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| Marmalade |
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Marmalade
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| Posted: 21:51 - 13 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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Yes. Fuse box been out, replaced every fuse on the bike as a matter of course.
Tested all power on back of box and a few mods previously made, air box out, all main wiring plugs checked.
Had a cold and got lung infection at the mo so not spending any time outside.
soon as I do, it'll be a wiring bridge from fuse box to the dead side of fuel pump relay. That should power up everything that's missing.
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Nobby the Bastard: How yo tell the difference between the actual japanese and her just screaming because she's had live fish stuck up her arse? [url=https://www.nicks-shop.co.uk/bcf-goodies-15-c.aspGet BCF stickers and things here[/url] Reflective helmet stickers - Legal requirement in france - Clicky |
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| tatfan |
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tatfan
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Marmalade
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tatfan
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bugeye_bob
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stinkwheel
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misscrabstick
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Marmalade
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Matt B
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
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| Posted: 12:50 - 15 Feb 2015 Post subject: |
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| stinkwheel wrote: | | Marmalade wrote: |
It was running for 10 or so mins after fitting the bits on, I turned it off to refit the panels. |
Given this, the obvious answer is a wire trapped under a panel either broken or shorting.
Easily done. |
I'll give you a good example of how esoteric this can be.
I once has a problem with my KLE500, the oil pressure warning light would stay on, flicker then go out as you revved up the bike. I was pretty convinced this was an electrical issue but what? I was convinced it must be a short somewhere.
I started by taking the plastics and tank off one at a time and trying it after each. Finally, I took the sump bash guard off and it started working properly. Put it back on and it happened again. Now this is very odd because there are no wires anywhere near the bash guard, I'd mainly removed it to check the idiot switch wiring.
Turns out I'd fitted a new exhaust a few weeks previously. I'd had a pannier resting on the exhaust prior to the fault occurring. This had shifted the exhaust mid-section slightly so it pushed against the bash guard which in turn deflected it against the end of the oil pressure switch plunger, pushing it in and making the light stay on until there was enough pressure to force it out against the exhaust (at higher revs). Removing the bash guard allowed the exhaust to move away from the switch.
So. What I'm saying is you need a methodical approach and to check for success after each step. I'd start by taking off all the plastics/bodywork/componants you did last time, one at a time and checking in between.
I'd then disconnect the parts you have added one at a time. Then I'd go to the wiring diagram and systematically check each wire that could be preventing the system working.
Mentally I find an approach of "find where the electricity stops" is a good one. So with a voltmeter, one end connected to earth, I work my way along the circuit until I find the point there is no longer a voltage when there should be. Say it was your fuel pump circuit: Power at fuse? Power into relay? Power out of relay? Power at fuel pump? If all those are yes, the fuel pump should be on. FInding where the power stops helps localise the problem.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| Marmalade |
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Marmalade
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 122 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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