Handling issue after fork rebuild

CBRMAN94 · Nitrous Nuisance Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Karma :

I've sorted a few things over winter and fork seals and bushes were on the list. Now after everything has been put together and i'm riding it again it feels like i'm struggling to turn right, Left is fine but not right! When i'm turning right it feels really slow and like the bars are pushing back into you. Before the forks were done they were a little soft but it still handled great.

I've tried to centre the forks by loosening the lower pinch bolts, rear wheel alignment is good, brakes aren't binding, wheel bearings were good...

I'm stumped!
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Honda CBR-RW6 (Sold) - Kawasaki GPZ500s (Sold) - Honda CG125 (Project) - Honda CB750 Cafe racer (Project) - Yamaha FZR400RR

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Wheel alignment and symmetry. Pretty much has to be. The forks are rigidly clamped in there and have to move together.

Even if you took the damper entirely out of one fork leg, it would be equally bad in both directions. Some forks have compression damping in one leg and rebound in the other. Mountain bike forks sometimes have the spring in one leg and the damper in the other.

Check alignment again. Make sure you also have the front wheel in the middle of the bike (sapcers in correctly? Nipped up in the correct order?). Check the stanchions are dropped the same distance through the forks. Make sure both finished forks have landed up the same length.

Remember to loosen the mudguard bolts too when centering the wheel.

If you're still unsure, get the bike propped vertically (use a plumb line) on a level floor (use a spirit level), chalk out the centre line (runs between a line plumb from the centre of the steering and the centre of the swingarm) and check the wheels land up on the same line and vertical.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

Skudd · Super Spammer Joined: 01 Oct 2006 Karma :

Sounds like things are a bit twisted.

As said, pop on centre stand if you have one, but it isn't a biggy if you haven't. Loosen all the bolts and nuts except the top yolk. Sit on the bike and bounce the front end a few times. Good bounces not weedy ones. Then clamp all back up.

It may, as I found out be the actual tyre you have on the front. My tyre was to blame for all sorts of handling issues. Made me sort out all those niggles that should have been sorted, just for the wrong reasons. LOL.
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CBRMAN94 · Nitrous Nuisance Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Karma :

It may well be that they aren't aligned because i didn't loosen the mudguard off Thumbs Up

Tires were fine last year so i can't see it being that
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Honda CBR-RW6 (Sold) - Kawasaki GPZ500s (Sold) - Honda CG125 (Project) - Honda CB750 Cafe racer (Project) - Yamaha FZR400RR

Skudd · Super Spammer Joined: 01 Oct 2006 Karma :

CBRMAN94 · Nitrous Nuisance Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Karma :

Loosened the bottom pinch bolts and the mudguard this time, Seems to have worked. About 80% close to perfect but it might still be feeling a bit weird because of all the salt making it twitchy too but thanks for the help guys! Can always count on BCF!
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Honda CBR-RW6 (Sold) - Kawasaki GPZ500s (Sold) - Honda CG125 (Project) - Honda CB750 Cafe racer (Project) - Yamaha FZR400RR

unitynotsocri... · Banned Joined: 29 Jun 2011 Karma :

If everything's aligned ok then check cable routing and fork oil,jus a little extra fork oil can feckup the whole plot......except on cg s of course.
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CBRMAN94 · Nitrous Nuisance Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Karma :

Well it seems to be back and intermittent! I can't tell whether it's me or the bike with me being on a little 125 for the last few months. It kinda feels like something goes loose for a couple minutes then everything is fine again. Anyone had this before?

Checked bearings and play in shock quickly but they seem ok

EDIT: Could as little as 5-10ml of oil make a difference? I measured it out in a jug and obviously some of it stick to the sides...
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Honda CBR-RW6 (Sold) - Kawasaki GPZ500s (Sold) - Honda CG125 (Project) - Honda CB750 Cafe racer (Project) - Yamaha FZR400RR

Fizzer Thou · World Chat Champion Joined: 06 Aug 2011 Karma :

The amount of oil in the forks will mainly determine the air gap.This is usually specified in the workshop manual and is more important than the amount.There is usually an upper and lower limit.

I use a hand pump from a soap dispenser,with an extension tube cut to the right length for the air gap depth

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Workshop/Picture485.jpg

This makes for a quick and easy method of removing any excess oil from the forks.

Check also that the preload,compression and rebound clickers are set the same number out on each leg Thumbs Up

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stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

I'd suggest (again) not focusing on the settings OR the oil.

Different amounts of oil in each fork leg isn't going to make it steer better one way than the other, it'll just screw up your damping which would affect the bike going either direction.

When everything is bolted up tight, the forks have to move together as a single unit regardless of their damping, oil content or spring rate. Unless we're suggesting one fork leg can move a shorter distance than the other with all the clamps done up?

So. If you are getting handling problems only to one side, it is down to the physical symmetry of the bike, not the amount of oil in the forks or the suspension settings.

Once again, many bikes deal with the rebound damping in one fork leg and the compression damping in the other.

EDIT: Are your handlebars straight?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

316lad · Borekit Bruiser Joined: 12 Nov 2014 Karma :

You have to loosen everything South of the top yoke - including top yoke fork nuts and Steering Head Bolt.

That means everything; mudguard bolts, lower yokes, if your handlebars are clip ons and clamp to the forks as well as bolt to the top yoke - even brake callipers - if you're floating discs- they're mustn't be anything restricting what you do next:

Then, straddle her, push down (not forward, but down) a few times. Then tighten up from bottom back to top.

Check your Torque measurements as you go as they're important.

Give that a go, I'm sure you'll be good.

CBRMAN94 · Nitrous Nuisance Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Karma :

Bars have never been straight from previous owners dropping it (and me Embarassed

) As far as i can tell they are as good as they can be. I'll have another so on Saturday loosening everything off below the top yoke as i only loosened the bottom yoke and mudguard last time Thumbs Up

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Honda CBR-RW6 (Sold) - Kawasaki GPZ500s (Sold) - Honda CG125 (Project) - Honda CB750 Cafe racer (Project) - Yamaha FZR400RR