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Turn key and absolutely nothing happens

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kevinheb
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Joined: 22 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Turn key and absolutely nothing happens Reply with quote

I have a BMW F650CS 02. Normally when you turn the key from "off" to "on" the bike makes a whirring noise and the display lights come on for a few seconds. I haven't ridden the bike for a couple of weeks, and last night when I tried to start it, when I got on the bike with the key in "off" position, the time on the display was showing. When I turned the key to the "on" position, absolutely nothing happened. No lights on the dash, the time lcd went blank, and the bike made no whirring.

When I turn the key to the "off" position again, the time reappears, and the speedo vibrates for a few seconds and I can hear a quiet whirring coming from the bike for a few seconds.

I believe that the battery is ok, with a multimeter across the battery the voltage is 12.5V and I have tried charging the battery, but the charger says that the battery is charged. I have also checked the fuses with the multimeter, which says that the fuses have no resistance across the them.

I'm at a real loss to work out what is wrong with the bike, and would appreciate any advice, thanks
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kevinheb
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Joined: 22 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quoted from Richard M on another forum

"That is the typical symptom of a dead battery. You can not go by the voltage reading. These German-made Exide AGM batteries tend to break internally after a while (mine only lasted 6 months) and the internal connections will fail if any load in placed on them. But they have just enough of a connection within the battery to run a voltmeter. Try hooking the battery up to a light bulb, or install it in your bike and turn the ignition on, then check the voltage. Chances are that the voltage will be zip under a load."


Having measured the voltage across the battery when the ignition is on, it drops to about 0.5V, which I'm guessing, means I'll need to get a new battery
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

More likely you turned the key to far and ran it flat with the parking light.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you try a set of jump leads to confirm if it is the battery ?
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 12:54 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Re: Turn key and absolutely nothing happens Reply with quote

kevinheb wrote:


When I turn the key to the "off" position again, the time reappears, and the speedo vibrates for a few seconds and I can hear a quiet whirring coming from the bike for a few seconds.



Another vote for flat battery. The whirring noise you can hear is your fuel pump, there is enough juice for the battery to perform peripheral functions but cranking the engine it will not.
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kevinheb
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Joined: 22 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I plug in a charger when the ignition is off, the charger says that the battery is full, but when I connect the charger with the ignition on, the leds on the charger just blink
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doggone
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jump leads from another vehicle if you can.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

A new battery will be about £60+.
A Battery conditioner about £40.

You really should have both in your case. If you leave the bike for any length of time a month or two without any action it can ruin a battery quickly.
Conditioners help keep the battery in top nik so they should last longer over all.

I would:
Try to charge the battery and test if it'll start the beast.
If not, buy a new battery.
Then you need to buy a conditioner for maintenance and less butt-hurt.

Keep the top of your battery clean too.
A wee test:
If you have your multimeter handy, connect one lead to a post.
Touch/Drag the other lead around the top of the battery.
Observe the voltage reading. Shocked
Wipe off any shit etc. from the top of the battery and re-test.
Observe the voltage reading.
Laughing
It's not massive amps, volts, ohms etc. but it is a trickle or constant drain 24/7.
Your trickle charger/optimizer will easily accommodate for this 'leakage'.
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 13:27 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW, I also think you have a battery problem.

Sometimes when a battery fails, a voltmeter appears to show that everything is fine, but internally, the current capacity isn't up to the job.

Measure the voltage again with the ignition on, and see if you get a lower reading.

This is why the battery charger says "Full", because it can't get any more juice into it.

You need a special piece of equipment called a 'Drop Tester' to measure the battery capacity - a multi-meter won't do it.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or jump start it from another vehicle.

Agree smart charges won't always start to work if it's very low.
It might still be OK for a while once charged again, but they soon go downhill after being totally flat, as irreversible damage is caused.
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MattEMulsion
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PostPosted: 15:15 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just check that you haven't knocked the kill switch to 'off' whilst you.are there.
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kevinheb
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Joined: 22 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been charging it for a few hours now, the dash lights are on, but if I try the indicators or front lights, they go dead again. I'll keep trying for a few more hours, but I suspect I'll need a new battery
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kevinheb wrote:
I've been charging it for a few hours now, the dash lights are on, but if I try the indicators or front lights, they go dead again. I'll keep trying for a few more hours, but I suspect I'll need a new battery


Do you have a normal old fashioned charger for lead-acid batteries? If you do, give it a blast on that for 15-20mins then back on the tender.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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kevinheb
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete, what do you mean by "the tender"?
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
If you leave the bike for any length of time a month or two without any action it can ruin a battery quickly.

I'd love to see evidence for this; specifically, such a short time without use, and a quick death.

My experience is contrary. Take my VFR for example; I very rarely ride it over winter, and it can go a month or two without riding after I've come back from my last tour of the summer; I'd say it does at least three 1..3 month periods of disuse a year. It's still using the battery I bought it second hand with, a battery that is at least 3 years old, and has been through two reg/rec failures and two stator failures, both times being ridden on battery alone until no more spark. And it still starts on a button press.

Or my GF's ER6f. Pretty much never ridden apart from ~2 tours in the summer, so it goes 9+ months of the year without being ridden. The original battery died last year, after 5 years of this treatment.

Our bikes live outside and there's no easy way to run power to them. Dragging the batteries inside to keep them charged there might make them last longer than 5 years, but IMO it's not worth the hassle or clutter. The batteries are cheap and hardy enough that the space and labour of moving them around exceeds the cost of buying them new a couple of times a decade.

A faulty charging system would kill a modern battery much faster than neglect, IMO.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kevinheb wrote:
Pete, what do you mean by "the tender"?


Modern bike battery chargers are often called 'battery tenders' because they can be left connected for long periods to keep the battery in good health.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Snodvan
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Joined: 22 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kevin

I have exactly the same bike - 02 BMW CS
I had virtually the SAME PROBLEM this last week
Turned out to be the fuse in the Datatool system (10A miniature spade type). Check your fuse. If the fuse has gone the Datatool alarm will shut down the bike totally

If the fuse is ok then - battery
Getting the battery out of the cradle on a Scarver is a pain in the arse BUT I would struggle and then charge the battery on the bench where I can also properly check electrolyte levels and do a "power test" ie wire a headlamp bulb across the battery and note how long it takes for the voltage to drop to (say) 12 or below.

Snod
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

barrkel wrote:
MCN wrote:
If you leave the bike for any length of time a month or two without any action it can ruin a battery quickly.

I'd love to see evidence for this; specifically, such a short time without use, and a quick death.

My experience is contrary. Take my VFR for example; I very rarely ride it over winter, and it can go a month or two without riding after I've come back from my last tour of the summer; I'd say it does at least three 1..3 month periods of disuse a year. It's still using the battery I bought it second hand with, a battery that is at least 3 years old, and has been through two reg/rec failures and two stator failures, both times being ridden on battery alone until no more spark. And it still starts on a button press.

Or my GF's ER6f. Pretty much never ridden apart from ~2 tours in the summer, so it goes 9+ months of the year without being ridden. The original battery died last year, after 5 years of this treatment.

Our bikes live outside and there's no easy way to run power to them. Dragging the batteries inside to keep them charged there might make them last longer than 5 years, but IMO it's not worth the hassle or clutter. The batteries are cheap and hardy enough that the space and labour of moving them around exceeds the cost of buying them new a couple of times a decade.

A faulty charging system would kill a modern battery much faster than neglect, IMO.


Aye OK but I have experience from loads of batteries not maintained properly and they don't put out the same power as a maintained battery.
If the starting load is considered, you may get five/six/more start cycles from a good battery but one that has not been looked after may not be as forgiving and die after three or four goes.
A month or two is possibly not long enough but more than that is going to knacker a battery.
Some designs are more able to accept a bit of abuse but the budget ones fall at the first fence.
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kevinheb
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 10 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Snodvan, but I don't have an alarm fitted, so its unlikely to be that. I have checked all 4 of the fuses next to the battery and they are all working
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davebike
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 10 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be BMW's inigtion switch wire snapping I seen it more on the bigger bikes

turn on inigtion check battery voltage is good (still over 12v)
check voltage at fuse box ( not main fuse )

If no volts there

Look at the wire from the inigtion switch you have to cut and remove the plastic sieve the wires tend to brake near where there are cable tied to the frame and turning the steering flexes them
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