when to change brake pads

[stranger12]

Hi Guys,

When do you change your pads?

Wait until 10% or so is left or sooner ?

Is there any reduction in performance comparing a 100% pad with 20% pad for sake of example ?

The reason I ask is because my r6 seems to have lost his braking performance . I have bled the system, have upgraded it to braided lines and use a new castrol performance dot4 in the system.

I did the upgrades because I did want to do it and not to address the braking issue.

I have no concerns buying a pair of new pads and not tight but want to know the answer before buying a pair.

I think the current ones are sintered ebc .

I also apply brake cleaner to the discs once every two weeks to the discs and let it dry without washing it off and then ride.

thanks
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SV650 Red
R6 Red

[UrbanRacer]

yea, usually the last 10-20% of the pads is when i start to consider buying new ones.
I've tried a few different pads.
EBC Sintered pads are good with decent life.
Carbone Lorraine HH pads give good performance but the life of them is considerably shorter than the EBC pads, also the brake dust they generate is phenomenal.

I find the OEM pads to be the best of both worlds, the downside is they tend to be bit more expensive.

[stranger12]

cool

anyone that has used brembo ?

do you think spraying brake cleaner on the disc is a good idea every now and then ?
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SV650 Red
R6 Red

[Baffler186]

[Beehive Bedlam]

This is when I replaced my Fazers rear pads.

https://i.imgur.com/VcWyrVA.jpg

...with SBS sintered which are by far the best pads I have tried.

[stranger12]

that seems like it has at least 40% or more left .

this is how mine looks like .

why did you change ?
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SV650 Red
R6 Red

[Beehive Bedlam]

[stranger12]

ok cool ,

i was asking in case you identified a fault
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SV650 Red
R6 Red

[Beehive Bedlam]

The caliper wasn't sliding freely causing slight uneven wear which was bugging me so I cleaned everything up and replaced the pads while I was at it.

[Rogerborg]

Just did the Nazi Tractor fronts, they had about 3-4mm left. They probably had another few thousand miles or so left in them (I'm normally ever so gentle), but they were just starting to wear unevenly because of the seized pins.

I was having to unseize the pins and change the seals it seemed a false economy - even for a Scootch - to not put new pads in while I was at it.

If you're thinking about it, you should probably do it.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[CaNsA]

Pro-tip

Brake fluid doesn't disappear or evaporate in to the ether.

When fitting new brake pads, top up the brake fluid to the MAX level (if there is one)

When the fluid level drops close to the MIN level marker, check and replace pads if needed.

[RhynoCZ]

[stranger12]

called ebc yesterday and they said double h sintered in not good for fast riding and I should use EPFA sintered pads for fast riding .

what is the equivelent of it in brembo ?

if you are doing fast riding , what pads do you use to ensure no brake fade or performance loss ?

Mine feels soft and weak after few minutes of fast riding in traffic.

I understand people say pad and dot4 is what matters .

I have dot4 castrol performance, ebc sintered pads, and braided lines from hel
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SV650 Red
R6 Red

[RhynoCZ]

Brembo SA = The same compound Japs put into the calipers in the factory. The pads are not fading, but they just do not feel very sharp - might be my calipers, I got a new set, when I got the pads.

Brembo SC = The same thing, but takes a bit of time to warm up to work properly.

Brembo RC = Racing stuff, when it's cold it does not work.

Brembo CC = Carbon-ceramic compound, not sure why, but they are there.

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I got the SA compound, thinking it will be the same as what I had there, well, it's not. It's not bad, but it's different from the Nissin pads I had there.

My mate has race stuff brake pad compound on his CBR 919, and when it's cold the front brake just doesn't give you the certainty, but when it gets warmed up, it's the best thing money can buy. BUT, to have fully working front brake, you really have to go fast and brake alot, which is not safe really, definitely not on the open road.

TL; DR - SA would be the best for slow and fast riding.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[c_dug]

The last set of pads I bought were from DP brakes, they were by far the best pads I've had in terms of stopping power.

Obviously you don't get something for nothing and I'm sure there was more wear to the pads or disks than other pads, though I have to say I didn't notice either wear particularly drastically.

I recommend them anyway
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Old Git Racing]

Wanted about £90 for a set of OEM Brembo pads for the ducati. Put SBS equivalent in instead and have no complaints at all. Powerful, fade free, good bite hot or cold, 40 quid.

OGR
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2022 Tiger Sport 660 2019 Street Twin 2003 K3 gixxer 1000 1998 Srad 600 track hack