How much can the battery take?

[Beehive Bedlam]

Over the next month I intend on adding accessories to my bike FZS 600 but not sure how much I can safely load on the battery.

Inforad.
Heated vest/gloves.
Heated grips.
Power point to charge sat nav.
Spotlights.
Alarm.

[DrSnoosnoo]

I would suggest that the alarm need not be worried about.

It won't ever be on/armed when you're running the other items.

Other than that, you need to tell us what power the sat nat needs, what power the heated vest needs etc. Quote max. power.
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[c_dug]

As far as I'm aware it's not really the battery but the alternator output you need to be checking.
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[MCN]

Lights will be the biggest load which can overload the charging system.
You need to find out what the normal load is on the system and what you can add.
Measure the normal load using an ammeter connected in series between the battery positive and the red main battery lead.

12v socket depends what you plug into it.
Heated vest about the same as heated grips probably not more than 1.5 amps.
Grips as heated gear 1-1.5 amps.
Satnav negligible/insignificant.
Alarm not much with engine running but they are a constant drain which should be suported by an optimiser if the machine is left for a few weeks. I use these. Charger

Inforad?? WTF is oneof them?
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[Beehive Bedlam]

TomTom rider 2013 is the Sat nav.

Kies heated vest and gloves.

[Rogerborg]

Replace your indicator, tail, side and dash lights with LEDs, stop being a beta fag.
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[Wonko The Sane]

[MCN]

[Wonko The Sane]

[Val]

You can do the math.

2002-2003 have better alternator 14V/21A the old ones are 12v/18A.

Means new ones are 14x21=300W and the old ones are 12x18=216W

All at 5000 rpm. Means at 1000 rpm will be about the half.

Here are Common Operating Loads

High Beam 55 watts
Low Beam 55 watts
Number Plate 5 watts
Brake/Tail 21 watts
Instrument Panel 2 watts
Computer 25 watts
Fuel Pump 60 watts
Cooling Fan 60 watts
Electronic Ignition 50 watts

Do the math depending on have you got connected.

If you exceed the power too much bad things will starts to happen - melting cables, fuses blown etc.

The way I see it no way you can connect all that, think about running some stuff on its own batteries. For example there is heated clotes that have batteries, and for the sat nav and other stuff you can buy one this external power banks will be good for your sat nav about 10-20 hours depending which one you get:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00SR5N5HU?psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A0NALHE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=569136327&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00FBD3MVA&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=19Z0TTC43D81AGCTN3M0

[orac]

heated gloves I kinda get, but heated vest. layer up, I have ridden in -15c with wind chill @ 60mph, I have worked bare handed in -12C.

then the other maddening thing, why heated gloves and bar grips? that more pointless than anything I can think of as a comparison. I cant see heated grips warming finger tips (unless you grip the bars too tightly) so go for the gloves IMHO.

drop the inforad and learn to observe. scrap the alarm as everyone else has said. LED spots are about 15w each, so 2 is 30 total

so heres what you need
GPS: 12W - at a guess
Heated Gloves: 60W
Layers of clothing: 0W
LED Spot lights: 30W
Phone Charger: 30W - or decent phone that doesn't need constant charging
A dose of man the fuck up: 0W
Not running all them at once: common sense
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[MCN]

[kramdra]

Fz6 generator should be capable of ~450w, same as any big bike. Its a large lump of oil cooled metal, with a good 100 degrees between oil temp and maximum temp, more in winter.

As most regulators are the shunt type, you'll be doing the generator a favour by drawing more load, less heat for it to dissipate. Worth checking your regulator has adequate air flow, check the wiring and connectors, it will be fine. Connect everything on a relay as you dont want it left on draining battery.

You could also get a cheap voltmeter, also connected through relay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121457129678 Seal it in epoxy + coat of black and put by your clocks.Under 13.5v while running is not going to be charging, turn some stuff off... .

There are also many cheap constant voltage/current/step up regulators on ebay, which will let you set lights/heat exactly where you want it. The controllers on heated gear, usually shit.

phone charger will be 10-12w max, unless you have a poor efficiency linear regulator type, or intend multiple phones!?!?

Inforad is rubbish, dont get one.

[Beehive Bedlam]

Power point - Will be used occasionally on longer runs when I need to keep my sat nav/phone charged.

Inforad - Not yet fitted but I will come to my own co conclusion whether or not I will keep it on the bike thanks. It cost the quater of what a fine so even if it saves me just once in an unfamiliar known scamera van zone it has paid for its self.

Heated equipment - I will use daily on longer runs in the colder months.

Heated grips - I will use when it is wet in conjunction with muffs and or if there isn't suitible storage at the other end of my journey for all my shit.

Spotlights - Required so I can see where I am going FZS box eye lights are shit.

Alarm - Despite what arm chair experts whitter about I have never had a problem with just a solo alarm (not the immobiliser ones).

Note - The above will obviously not all be running at once bar the inforad and heated gloves/vest or grips not both.

So will the battery take it?

[MCN]

[Papa Lazarou]

Try upgrading the headlight bulbs before fitting spotlights.

[Beehive Bedlam]

[MCN]