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R1 not passing 10k under load

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J.M.
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: R1 not passing 10k under load Reply with quote

I bought my 2004 R1 not too long ago. Before clocking up many miles I took the bike in for a 24,000 mile service to ensure that the entire bike was checked over. I have a Meta Alarm that has been fitted by the Yamaha dealership.

A few things came up, however I opted to get anything that wasn't quite right all fixed with OEM parts. This even included replacing the wiring loom due to it being stretched in places and having clips broken off to the ECU and such.

I've not had the bike back too long, but on Saturday took it out for its first decent ride. During the ride, I noticed two things:
- Indicators on RHS started flashing too fast (both bulbs work - this only started to happen part way through the ride)
- The bike wouldn't pass 10k RPM under load

If I gradually take the bike up in first gear, I can pass 10k RPM. If I decide to give it some stick from say 6-7k in 2nd or 3rd gear, the bike just won't pass 10k RPM. It feels as if the bike is spluttering. I haven't tried it in 4th/5th/6th gear as it gets difficult to find somewhere to get the bike up to those speeds with no traffic.

When the bike refuses to pass 10k RPM, it feels as if the bike is spluttering. I would liken it to fuel starvation. No engine management lights come on. The immobiliser light does not come on. However there do not feel to be any issues with fuelling at other RPMs. Performance pulling away from lights, and accelerating, in general, all feels good. It is only once it hits this 10k revs that anything feels wrong.

The Yamaha dealer has plugged the bike in to the computer and there are no registered error codes. The technician couldn't figure out what the problem is. He's trying to contact the main Yamaha Technical Support now to see if they have encountered any similar issues before.

Right now I'm waiting for the dealer to call me back. I took it to them yesterday.

My main thought is trying to figure out whether or not this issue has been caused by the service that they have performed. I haven't noticed this issue before having the service. 150 miles after the service, I have noticed the issue, and the indicator relay has also gone crazy. I want to ensure that if this is their fault, I'm not left footing the bill.

I'll update this when/if I know more.
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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be a rectifier problem. Yayamha rectifiers are usually pretty good though.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bike is going back to Yamaha on the 21st in order to get it checked again, post them receiving advice from main Yamaha. This is at no cost to myself. As the bike is rideable until then, I'm happy with that.

In the meantime I'll be fitting a voltage display to the bike. However I need to figure out a way to neatly fit it, as I'd really rather not splice a brand new wiring loom to get a switched live.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just fit to battery and pop a push to make switch somewhere. Similar to my R1 in Spain.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would rather an on-off switch. Though I doubt this will be the only electrical modification I'll make, so making a switched live relay wouldn't be a terrible thing!
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

the fuel filter on mine was covered in crap @ 24k .. not that it caused any problems ... Thinking
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking air starvation. Have they physically checked the air filter or just plugged it into a computer?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I was thinking air starvation. Have they physically checked the air filter or just plugged it into a computer?


First thing to check. The higher the load the more air and fuel is demanded. Check the air filter and the fuel filter.
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G
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had similar on a zx9, which turned out to be related to the ram air system I had removed - it was actually the equalising pipe for the carbs that was the issue.

I tried adding a large funnel connected to said pip which made it a bit better, but ended up replacing the ram system without pipes.

With FI you shouldn't have quite the same issues, but may be similar.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the air filter would have been a part of the 24k service.

Prior to the service, the air filter was incorrectly fitted, leading to excess air being able to enter the system (even unfiltered... Brick Wall). At the time of the service, one of the ram air intake rubbers was missing.

Alongside the service, the air filter has been changed (and now correctly fitted), a new OEM ram air intake rubber was fitted, and the injectors have been balanced using the computer.

When I took it to them the other day after I noticed the problem, they took it out to check the problem for themselves (which they are able to reproduce) and I believe plugged it in to the computer. I don't know everything that they did to check the bike.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hypotheticals:
Does your computer read the ECM parameters?
It may be in a 'get-home' mode. (If there is such a thing on the bike.) It is a factory preset for when there is a problem in the engine.
The dealer diagnostic can probably read that and reset the ECM or find out if there is a fault. If the person reading is competent.
I know personally of times when dealer teknishons had fcuk all clue about what they were looking at on the diagnostic. Shocked

An old army trick that 'can' possibly 'fix' a confused ECM is to disconnect the battery and touch the + & - together. Probably no good now but it doesn't take any time and costs nothing.

The reason for the suggestion is that the ECM doesn't really calculate much it only references stored settings and matches them to the inputs it receives. If all inputs are correct but the ECM is jumbled/frazzeled then you may get the problems you write about.

You could also try a known good ECM as a try B4U Buy.
Some ECM will need initiating by OEM software to work in some engines.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the top speed, assuming it might be different in other gears? 10k on a 600 would probably be around 33bhp restriction area, probably much faster on a litre. As there is no ECU codes, I would first check for mechanical restriction that might have been left in by previous owner (or fitted to wrong bike by idiot dealership technicians, or something dropped into the throttle opening Shocked ).

I am reasonably surprised they were not able to pull fuelling and sensor information out of the ECU to quickly locate the issue, but dealerships are usually incompetent with electrics Laughing
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MCN
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
What is the top speed, assuming it might be different in other gears? 10k on a 600 would probably be around 33bhp restriction area, probably much faster on a litre. As there is no ECU codes, I would first check for mechanical restriction that might have been left in by previous owner (or fitted to wrong bike by idiot dealership technicians, or something dropped into the throttle opening Shocked ).

I am reasonably surprised they were not able to pull fuelling and sensor information out of the ECU to quickly locate the issue, but dealerships are usually incompetent with electrics Laughing


^^^ this.

The problem with dealerships is that they won't pay mechanics the proper rate for their knowledge.
Why a uni grad expects a 6 figure salary and a time served and further educated mechanic can expect a 5 figure salary is beyond best logic. So it doesn't encourage the sharpest folk to look for a job in the motor trade.
They pay the shit in the showroom more. Smile

There are some very very smart tech in dealers though. It's just luck if you find a dedicated man/woman to take ownership of the task.

Even without relying on the tech the workshop manager is supposed to know the score too and should be well able to intervene when a tech is stuck. Not always the case now-a-days.

BMW charge something like £80/hour for a car tech. Smile

I never understood the unrealistic value placed on repairs to a non-producing bit of kit. If a bread oven breaks down I don't think the bakery would like to fork out £80 an hour for a tech. Smile
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not restricted. It'll still do around 150-160 before hitting the 10k issue in 6th!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the Tachometer working properly?

The spluttering may be the rev-limiter preventing a low earth orbit. Shocked
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 09:51 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would in no way assume a dealer has done what they say they have done.

Just because you've been billed for an air filter and the time it took to fit one, dfoesn't mean it's been done, or done competantly.

I paid for dealer servicing for three years the one and only bike I've bought from new. Each time I was charged for check and reset tappets, clean air filter and change fork oil. When I went to do my first home service, the paint on the tappet inspection covers was unmarked and they were corroded in place. The fork oil was like rancid, stinkin mayonaise and the air filter was black and full of spiders.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a reputable dealer and I have no grounds to assume that they haven't done the work that they claim to. I even visited the bike in their workshop whilst they were working on it so that they could show me in person the faults that they found and allow me to decide what to do about them.

They were very caring with my bike, giving it a full clean of all areas whilst it was being worked on. The staff are all very friendly and I saw them doing services with a lot of care on other customer's bikes whilst I was there. When I picked up the bike, they showed me the parts that had been removed including the old air filter, the old spark plugs, etc. They answered all of my questions to my satisfaction and even dug out the old wiring loom at my request to show me again, in person, the damages that were present on it.

When it goes back in on the 21st it's free of charge for them to diagnose the issue.

I was very wary about what happened to you stinkwheel happening to me also, which is why before allowing them to take my bike in, I also visited their workshop so I could talk to the staff first hand and see (through the workshop window) how other customer's bikes were being worked on and treated.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was very cautious because the only other time I've used a garage to do any work was a Suzuki dealership on an engine I dropped off in their workshop. They claimed to be able to do the work by a certain date, then 2 days after the date they phoned me to claim that they couldn't do it and I'd need a new top end. They made a right mess of it. Brick Wall I didn't need a new top end... because I found someone competent in the end that sorted it no problems.
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Minty
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

How long does it take to check the filter?
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 13:25 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Judging by a YouTube video I've just watched, it's remarkably easy to access and change the air filter. 5 minutes work. I shall check it today to know absolutely that it has been done.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I would in no way assume a dealer has done what they say they have done.

Just because you've been billed for an air filter and the time it took to fit one, dfoesn't mean it's been done, or done competantly.

I paid for dealer servicing for three years the one and only bike I've bought from new. Each time I was charged for check and reset tappets, clean air filter and change fork oil. When I went to do my first home service, the paint on the tappet inspection covers was unmarked and they were corroded in place. The fork oil was like rancid, stinkin mayonaise and the air filter was black and full of spiders.


My mucker put his R1200GS into the Bishopbriggs BMW dealer for a full 'dealer' service (Razed to the ground later. ) Thinking
He was about to ride the Highways of The Cheque Republik on it so wanted it done puker.
When he picked it up he'd been charged for the full Boona. Brake Fluid Change et al.
The first issue he noticed was that the front fluid pot still had some detritus in the bottom. So the system had not been flushed/prepared properly as per the OEM instructions.
If you get a competent to work on the bike it's good. Not uncommon either but there are a few eejits who dealers don't care to check=up on for their customers.
The dealer's Workshop Mgr. should know the shit he has working for him and it is his very responsibility when his minion/s fuck up.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which model of R1 have you got as I may well have the pukka Yamaha workshop manual?

R1s are easy to work on.

Do you know if the bike had some performance silencers fitted before you bought it?

Have you seen if the bike is fitted with a Power Commander?

If you look in the airbox is it a washable K&N cotton filter?
Or even another type of 'performance air filter?
A friend bought a Yam R1 and it had a Power Commander fitted but the previous owner had reinstalled the standard filter just before selling it.So the PC3 was overfuelling.We installed a new K&N and the bike then ran perfectly Thumbs Up

Some places can perform a 'flash' update to a standard ECU.But the box is the same and unless it is marked up that a 'flash' has been performed,you would not know.

Changing the spark plugs is a pain in the rear on injected R1s Wink
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
What is the top speed, assuming it might be different in other gears? 10k on a 600 would probably be around 33bhp restriction area, probably much faster on a litre. As there is no ECU codes, I would first check for mechanical restriction that might have been left in by previous owner (or fitted to wrong bike by idiot dealership technicians, or something dropped into the throttle opening Shocked ).

I am reasonably surprised they were not able to pull fuelling and sensor information out of the ECU to quickly locate the issue, but dealerships are usually incompetent with electrics Laughing


When a bike is restricted RPM isn't limited, whether the limit be at the throttle or in the intake. It just limits the about of air/fuel. I red lined every restricted bike I have ridden.
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 17:35 - 09 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:

When a bike is restricted RPM isn't limited, whether the limit be at the throttle or in the intake. It just limits the about of air/fuel. I red lined every restricted bike I have ridden.

Some are directly restricted in revs, but on a litre bike that'd be very low rpm to hit 33hp.
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