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dcd1979
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 28 Oct 2015    Post subject: Chinese 125 Reply with quote

Hi I have a Chinese vulcan 125 custom, I have recently changed the head due to a broken exhaust port and since putting it back together it seems to be rattling, I am unsure if it is the tappets as I can't seem to find the settings anywhere, any advice appreciated

Dave
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 28 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Without googling, off the top of my head for generic clearances, tappets 0.2 inlet, 0.3 exhaust? Should do till you get the proper distances.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 28 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it OHC or pushrod?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 28 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the pushrod CG125 copyengine, so 0.08mm for both, or four three thousandths of an inch in old money.
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dcd1979
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PostPosted: 00:42 - 29 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
It's the pushrod CG125 copyengine, so 0.08mm for both, or four three thousandths of an inch in old money.



That's what I thought and set them to
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:30 - 29 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wild thought, do the oilways match up perfectly and is the head getting lubricated? I wonder how long a pushrod head will run without lubrication. Thinking
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dcd1979
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 29 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Wild thought, do the oilways match up perfectly and is the head getting lubricated? I wonder how long a pushrod head will run without lubrication. Thinking


Yes plenty of oil up top really confusing me
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Robby
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 29 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's a metallic ticking noise, then the problem is likely to be the exhaust gasket. Doubly so if you didn't replace it when you changed the head.
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dcd1979
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 29 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
If it's a metallic ticking noise, then the problem is likely to be the exhaust gasket. Doubly so if you didn't replace it when you changed the head.


It had new gaskets fitted
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:30 - 30 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You did do them at TDC on the compression stroke and not the overlap stroke?
You wouldn't be the first to get that wrong if you did
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dcd1979
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 30 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
You did do them at TDC on the compression stroke and not the overlap stroke?
You wouldn't be the first to get that wrong if you did


I think so but now I'm not sure what is the best way to make sure u r on compression stroke ?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 30 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most bike have a TDC pointer but to ensure you're on the correct stroke
I'll watch the inlet rocker as I slowly turn the motor in its normal running direction with the plug out
and maybe ( carefully!) use something down the plug hole if I can't watch the piston.

When you see the inlet rocker move to open its valve and the piston moves downwards you're on the induction stroke.

When you see the rocker/valve close and piston starts upwards
that's the compression stroke so you then continue carefully until it reaches TDC.
there will usually be some corresponding marks on the flywheel to
help determine exact TDC.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 30 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you do poke things down your cylinder (and there is nothing wrong with doing so) make sure it is a pencil. My mate phoned me to say he had trapped a pencil with the piston and snapped it off and wanted to know what to do, I told him to just start it up. He did and other than a few sparks coming out of the pipe it did no harm.
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