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Brighter Headlight Bulbs

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Nomad Z
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Brighter Headlight Bulbs Reply with quote

The headlight on my Gladius isn't exactly inspiring (I assume it's the OEM bulb). It's particularly bad when there's oncoming traffic on a somewhat bendy A road that's on my commute home. At those times, dipped beam might as well not be there. On full beam, I'd say it's barely adequate.

Been thinking about getting one of those extra bright types, like these...

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-batteries/car-bulbs/halfords-ultra-brilliance-headlight-bulb-472-h4

...or these...

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-batteries/car-bulbs/halfords--130-brighter-headlight-bulb-472-h4

How much of a difference do they really make? Any reason to chose one of the above over the other? What about reliability? (I've got a Halfords gift voucher, so if they're as good as any, I'd prefer to go there.)
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NJD
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Halfrauds.

Someone who works their told a friend that bulbs only have a lifespan of about three months from that place, can't be sure if it's true or how true but they don't have the best reputation at times so wouldn't be surprised.

(I have no actual experience of halfrauds bulbs).
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

PIAA Expensive but very bright.

Or Osram/Philips Extreme.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

avoid anything Halfrauds branded, a member on here had a lot of headlamp issues with H`s own brand lamps, they replaced with a decent brand and they had no more issues.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=4209074&highlight=#4209074
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Ste
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
Someone who works their told a friend

One problem with that is the majority of Halfords staff don't know what they're talking about. Razz
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What voltages are you getting up at the headlight bulb connector?

The biggest improvement on lots of bikes would be through fitting heavy wires with relays to get as much voltage at the bulb as possible. Manufacturers tend to skimp on wiring thickness (copper = expensive), plus add in a bit of corrosion on the connectors and the voltage magically leaks away....

Higher wattage bulbs just make the problem worse as higher currents lead to more resistance and more voltage drop.
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Nomad Z
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll stay away from the Halfords bulbs, then.


smegballs wrote:
What voltages are you getting up at the headlight bulb connector?


Haven't measured the voltage yet. The bike has heated grips, but the light was poor before they were fitted, and I wouldn't say it's got any worse when the grips are running.


Quote:
Higher wattage bulbs just make the problem worse as higher currents lead to more resistance and more voltage drop.


Why would higher current lead to higher resistance?

Corrosion is always a possibility - will check that.
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Copyhat
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nomad Z wrote:
I'll stay away from the Halfords bulbs, then.


smegballs wrote:
What voltages are you getting up at the headlight bulb connector?


Haven't measured the voltage yet. The bike has heated grips, but the light was poor before they were fitted, and I wouldn't say it's got any worse when the grips are running.


Quote:
Higher wattage bulbs just make the problem worse as higher currents lead to more resistance and more voltage drop.


Why would higher current lead to higher resistance?

Corrosion is always a possibility - will check that.


Electrical resistance in cables follows Ohm's law which means that it functions as a resistor (with a fixed value) in series with your headlight bulb. You can measure the correct voltage if the bulb isn't plugged in, but the larger current drawn by the bulb compared to the multimeter drags the voltage down because the equivalent series resistance of the wiring isn't dimensioned for the current. The voltage drop becomes heat in the wiring, and it will melt the isolation and start fires if the current drawn far exceeds the cable's capabilities, which is why it is a good idea to use the correct fuses in an installation.

Imagine a long waterpipe where you want 12 bar of pressure on the far end of it. You can easily measure the same pressure at both ends of the pipe if we imagine a manometer in each end. If we open the tap in the far end, the water pressure will drop because it has to overcome the resistance of the pipe, while we can still measure the same 12 bar in the opposite end.

I hope it was clarifying for you. I am studying marine engineering with electrical engineering as a primary subject.
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stonesie
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had a good result with these...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Osram-H4-NightBreaker-Unlimited-2-Bulbs-/281809889806?hash=item419d2daa0e:g:M0sAAOSwEK9T7zOL

Had them in my STR and my last car, pretty good upgrade over standard and there are cheaper ones on ebay in card blister packs but I'm always weary of fakes on there, more likely to be in the cheaper packaging in my mind.
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pinkyfloyd
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fitted this

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/motorcycling/motorcycle-parts/halfords-bike-it-motorcycle-bulb-hmb472sbb-h4-12v-60-55w

Made a big difference to the OEM ones and it has been in the bike for over a year now. Not as bright as some I have seen but brighter than standard and no issues.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Every bike i've had has had the stock bulb replaced with a Phillips motovision or extreme power. Motovision is better than stock but not awesome, very yellow. Was using a spare. Dropped the good bulb cleaning the headlight when i was messing about with spotlights, so was on motovision for the last few months.

Tempted to try the osram nightbreakers, they are very cheap.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 13:19 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copyhat - Denmark wrote:

Electrical resistance in cables follows Ohm's law which means that it functions as a resistor (with a fixed value) in series with your headlight bulb. You can measure the correct voltage if the bulb isn't plugged in, but the larger current drawn by the bulb compared to the multimeter drags the voltage down because the equivalent series resistance of the wiring isn't dimensioned for the current. The voltage drop becomes heat in the wiring, and it will melt the isolation and start fires if the current drawn far exceeds the cable's capabilities, which is why it is a good idea to use the correct fuses in an installation.


That's right.

For example I wired a voltmeter into my bikes clocks, it is fed from the "sidelight" feed into the tacho backlight.

With the sidelights on: it reads about 13.5V
With the headlights on: it reads about 13.1V

The whole time the voltage at the battery is 14.4V (thanks to hardwired in R/R with 10G cables).

So despite the battery voltage being a lovely 14.4V there is enough losses in the wiring that the headlight bulb only "sees" 13.1V

It's worth noting too that the relationship between brightness and supply voltage is non-linear too, given that incandescent bulbs are non-ohmic. A small drop in voltage leads to a large drop in light output.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nomad Z wrote:


Why would higher current lead to higher resistance?



I am bored at work so I shall make you a picher:

It's not an increased resistance as such, but an increased voltage drop that lowers the amount of voltage the bulb is able to use.

https://imgur.com/S5bRo6h.jpg

So you have a supply voltage, a resistor (the resistance of your wiring) and the load (bulb).

When you put in a high-power bulb (ie a smaller load resistance) more current flows in the circuit. This higher current flowing through a fixed resistance (your wiring loom) creates a higher voltage drop and so the bulb "sees" less available voltage.

This is a bit of a simplified model as the bulbs are non-ohmic in real life. The main point about the voltage drop in the loom still holds however as that is copper wire (+- corrosion) is an ohmic conductor.


Last edited by smegballs on 13:43 - 13 Dec 2015; edited 2 times in total
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, screw Halfrauds its a feckin toyshop
Expensive too.
Check out Ebay or Eurocarparts ( buy online and collect for best prices)

Get a meter and check the charging system and wiring/switches/connectors too
as a poor supply means a dimmer bulb
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Nomad Z
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't this have something to do with battery/charger capacity (ability to delivery current)?

The loses due to the resistance of the wiring should be negligible if it isn't heating up - a few milliohms - so voltage drop over the wire should be tiny compared to that over the bulb (which is maybe a couple of ohms?).

I appreciate that a voltmeter can read a higher voltage when there is no bulb fitted - the meter has a much higher resistance, so there's very little current, but the reduced voltage when the bulb is fitted shouldn't change that significantly if the supply and wiring are capable of delivering the required current. (I think...)

Is this one of those equivalent circuit things? Something to do with the internal resistance of the power supply increasing when current draw goes up?
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Nomad Z
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="smegballs"]
Nomad Z wrote:


So you have a supply voltage, a resistor (the resistance of your wiring) and the load (bulb).

When you put in a high-power bulb (ie a smaller load resistance) more current flows in the circuit. This higher current flowing through a fixed resistance (your wiring loom) creates a higher voltage drop and so the bulb "sees" less available voltage.

This is a bit of a simplified model as the bulbs are non-ohmic in real life. The main point about the voltage drop in the loom still holds however as that is copper wire (+- corrosion) is an ohmic conductor.


Thanks for that - got the idea. I'd be tempted to think resistance in the connectors, or due to corrosion would be the bigger part of the drop due to the wiring (a metre of 6A copper wire - 0.75mm2 - should be tiny at around 20-25 milliohms, and less for thicker wire).

I'd need to fiddle with numbers to see how that fits into voltage at the bulb.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah it is usually either connectors, or where a nicked insulation that lets the moisture in. That said on older bikes, I have seen "electrical rot" where you strip back a wire and its just a dull black copper-oxide color rather than bright copper.

I haven't done all of them yet, but on my bike all the connectors on the wires associated with the ignition circuits have been removed from their blocks, cleaned with wet'n'dry to a nice bright brass, then re-assembled with plenty of silicon grease to waterproof and prevent future corrosion.

Last time I was in portugal I was riding through such heavy rain visibility was down to about 40 meters (massive storms in the autumn) yet the bike didn't miss a beat. I'd like to think the comprehensive waterproofing of the electrics helped in the matter.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nomad Z wrote:

The loses due to the resistance of the wiring should be negligible if it isn't heating up - a few milliohms - so voltage drop over the wire should be tiny compared to that over the bulb (which is maybe a couple of ohms?).


I'd say from battery up to starter switch contacts for example has about 1-2 ohms of resistance. This has been within in this range for countless bikes I've worked on.

As you say it's not so much the wire as the connectors.

To get to from the battery the headlight it has to come from the battery terminal, across the main fuse, up the frame, through the ignition switch, up to the right handlebar for the light switch, back over to the left handlebar for the beam selector then down to the lightbulb.

That's loads of connector blocks and switch contacts to get progessively corroded over the years. Especially the sliding contacts in switched, I've cleaned some of them that are absolutely minging. That's why relays make such a difference. It's just battery-fuse-light-ground.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to use Philips bulbs, but they were too expensive ~ £25 for a pair.

I now use Osram Night Breakers ~ £12 per pair, probably not quite as bright as the Philips. But very good non the less. I use them on the bikes and the car. Luckily both bikes and the car are all H7

I do a lot of night time driving (country roads) and the difference between stock is significant.

One thing, I tend to get flashed in the car all I can think is that some people think I have the main beam on.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 02:07 - 15 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never had an issue with any bulb from halfords, they usually last about 3-10 years or so.

Plus, if you know someone with a special type of halfords card, the bulbs are about thruppence ha'penny each Wink
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 15 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kawakid wrote:

I now use Osram Night Breakers ~ £12 per pair


I replaced the 35w bulbs on my SV with 65w Nightbreakers, very happy with them.


I fitted these for less than £15 on my Street Triple and they are really good:
Ring Xenon Ultima
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 15 Dec 2015    Post subject: Re: Brighter Headlight Bulbs Reply with quote

Nomad Z wrote:
The headlight on my Gladius isn't exactly inspiring (I assume it's the OEM bulb). It's particularly bad when there's oncoming traffic on a somewhat bendy A road that's on my commute home. At those times, dipped beam might as well not be there. On full beam, I'd say it's barely adequate.



With the greatest of respects, the bulb doesn't get any dimmer when a car comes the other way.....when did you last have you eyes looks at?

Just the way you said it's especially bad when there's a car coming the other way makes me wonder....
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Nomad Z
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 15 Dec 2015    Post subject: Re: Brighter Headlight Bulbs Reply with quote

Wafer_Thin_Ham wrote:
With the greatest of respects, the bulb doesn't get any dimmer when a car comes the other way.....when did you last have you eyes looks at?

Just the way you said it's especially bad when there's a car coming the other way makes me wonder....


When there's oncoming traffic, the pupils contract in response to the headlights. The apparent brightness of stuff that was there before the headlights appeared reduces as a result. When the traffic clears and the headlights are gone, the pupils open again and the apparent brightness increases.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 15 Dec 2015    Post subject: Re: Brighter Headlight Bulbs Reply with quote

Nomad Z wrote:


When there's oncoming traffic, the pupils contract in response to the headlights. The apparent brightness of stuff that was there before the headlights appeared reduces as a result. When the traffic clears and the headlights are gone, the pupils open again and the apparent brightness increases.


I know how eyes work. Wink

Just seems weird that you don't say they're consistently bad, just when stuff's coming the other way.

The headlights on my GSXR400 back in the day were just consistently like candles in mucky jam jars.
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Nomad Z
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PostPosted: 00:05 - 16 Dec 2015    Post subject: Re: Brighter Headlight Bulbs Reply with quote

Wafer_Thin_Ham wrote:
Just seems weird that you don't say they're consistently bad, just when stuff's coming the other way.


I thought I did. It's shite. In oncoming traffic, it's like switching it off.

Dullish and a bit yellowy when there's nothing coming, although the dipped beam pattern is easy enough to make out. Full beam is anaemic. With oncoming lights, the road surface becomes completely black and featureless and verges/kerbs are only visible when the oncoming lights illuminate bits.

Tried switching the grips on and off when ahead was clear - no discernible difference in brightness. Must be the worst 60/55 H4 bulb I've ever had. I have a couple of spare standard ones in the garage somewhere - I think I'll try one of them before I spend money (and measure the voltage at the bulb while I'm at it).
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