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Bike will / won't start

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krikster
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 05 Dec 2015
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 05 Dec 2015    Post subject: Bike will / won't start Reply with quote

Ok here it goes.....I have a bike that I have gone through with a fine tooth comb trying to figure out the problem. The bike has a new battery, new plugs, new fuel, new stater, and new switch. However if I use the switch to try and crank it, it will try to crank, but no start. Yet if I roll it off it cranks in the first 5 feet of a small roll. So that tells me the engine is easy to start, but for some reason will not fire up when using the switch.

P.S. Tried checking to see if the starter was weak by using jumpers with a car and still did the same as just the battery itself! Evil or Very Mad


What could possibly be the issue in this freaky situation? Confused
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NJD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 05 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Telling us what bike you have may be a good place to start. Rolling Eyes
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krikster
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 05 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry about that......84 Kawasaki 750cc Vulcan
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 16:37 - 05 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fist test is to find out if the problem appears to with the starter or its connections, or with the rest of wiring leading up to it. You can test this by shorting out the starter relay.

Find the starter relay, probably next the battery. It will have a couple of thick wires going to it, and a multi-plug with some smaller wires. There should be some rubber boots covering the connectors for the thick wires.

Peel back the rubber boots. Using an insulated screwdriver, and probably wearing gloves as well, bridge the two connections. Expect some sparks.

If the engine turns over when you bridge the connectors, the problem is likely to be with your starter relay, starter button, or the wiring between the two. If the engine fails to turn over, the problem is with the starter motor or its connections. Check the thick wires for a good connection before pulling the starter apart.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 05 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you saying that it will crank over on the button but not fire up but if you push it and bump-start on the clutch it will fire up easily?
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krikster
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Joined: 05 Dec 2015
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
are you saying that it will crank over on the button but not fire up but if you push it and bump-start on the clutch it will fire up easily?


What I am saying is if I hold the starter button down it will make the sound and action like it wants to fire up. However it never actually fires up. Yet if we roll it off down a small incline with it in first or second gear and pop the clutch after about 5 feet of rolling it it will fire right up as smooth as butter.

To the post above yours....We have already tried to jump it off the starter and checked the relay and all that. New battery and new stater as well.

So what would be the next best thing to get this bike to start with the starter button?

Thanks everyone so far and more thanks in advance!
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P.addy
Formerly known as
P.



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PostPosted: 13:02 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

More power. Got a car battery to hand?
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
More power. Got a car battery to hand?


Yes, jump off a car battery you know is good. If it starts then you know your battery is fucked.
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krikster
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 13:28 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
Paddy. wrote:
More power. Got a car battery to hand?


Yes, jump off a car battery you know is good. If it starts then you know your battery is fucked.


Thanks, but we have done that already. It does the same as trying to start it with the stater button. Sounds like it will start, but to no avail!

So any other suggestions out there?
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Luckyfish13
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 30 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you shorted out the different parts to the circuit did it act as expected?
Eg. When you connected starter directly to battery did it still spin? If not the starter motor is finished.

Assuming all the tests you have done came back negative, I'd be checking the compression next.

If not, the alternator probable isn't making enough AC power to run the starter motor. Get the multimeter out and do a voltage test at the alternator while the bikes running...it should stay steady around 14V. Any higher and the regulators screwed. Any lower and there could be discontinuity in the circuit to the battery...
For discontinuity check the resistance as follows:

Remove ONLY negative lead from the battery
Put multimeter in OHMS mode
Touch either of the terminals to the connection where the main wire comes out of the alternator to the reg/rec, then touch the other end to the middle of the positive terminal on the battery.
If the OHMS reading indicates continuity (0.5 OHMS or infinitely open reading) then the alternator is finished.


Check the compression first though, I bet that's the problem...
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krikster
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Luckyfish13 wrote:
When you shorted out the different parts to the circuit did it act as expected?
Eg. When you connected starter directly to battery did it still spin? If not the starter motor is finished.

Assuming all the tests you have done came back negative, I'd be checking the compression next.

If not, the alternator probable isn't making enough AC power to run the starter motor. Get the multimeter out and do a voltage test at the....
For discontinuity check the resistance as follows:

Remove ONLY negative lead from the battery
Put multimeter in OHMS mode......


Check the compression first though, I bet that's the problem...


Thanks I will get with the owner and we will run this test and check back in then!
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P.addy
Formerly known as
P.



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PostPosted: 15:11 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could do what Pete did on my blackbird. Give the starter, JUST the starter 24v.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep we worked all day on that bike and couldn't find a solution. The only cure to hand was to wire a second battery between the starter solenoid and the starter and it was on the button every time after that. I think it was a fault in the loom personally but without stripping the whole loom apart we'd never know.
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Luckyfish13
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 16:58 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Yep we worked all day on that bike and couldn't find a solution. The only cure to hand was to wire a second battery between the starter solenoid and the starter and it was on the button every time after that. I think it was a fault in the loom personally but without stripping the whole loom apart we'd never know.


Lol nice fix there tbh wouldn't have even considered it...

It's defo worth the time trying to find the root cause imo it's only goin to fuck up at some point in time..
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 19:19 - 06 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It takes very little electricity to make a spark, it takes a lot to crank an engine.

However, if the battery is weak - or the starter motor resistance is very high - then the starter motor seems to take all of the power, not leaving enough to make a decent spark.

So, questions:
1. Start motor cranking. You say it cranks the same whether it is using the bike battery or using the bike battery and an additional car battery. Does it crank good and fast, or is it a bit sluggish?
2. New battery. Did you charge the new battery, or just fit it? Have you charged it since doing all of this experimenting? Always diagnose problems like this on a good condition battery that has been on a charger overnight.

If the battery is charged then the next place to look would be the thick wires between battery and starter motor. The red wire should go from battery to solenoid and then solenoid to starter motor. The black wire will only go part of the way, using the frame/engine as a general ground.
The bike is 31 years old so corrosion is going to be a problem, particularly where dissimilar metals meet. Check where the thick earth (black) lead meets the frame or engine for corrosion. If you find any, clean it up. Also see if any of the thick leads are frayed near their ends. For a real shortcut, run an additional thick earth lead from the starter motor back to the relay.
If none of that works, I would be stripping down the starter motor.

Also, you keep saying you replaced the stater - I assume you are referring to the stator plate and not the starter motor. It's a misspelling which could lead to very different advice being provided.
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krikster
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 14:53 - 07 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Also, you keep saying you replaced the stater - I assume you are referring to the stator plate and not the starter motor. It's a misspelling which could lead to very different advice being provided.


Yes the Stater......basically the alternator part that recharges the battery. I told him about the compression check and he said well yea I didn't think about that. He said come to think about it I have noticed one cylinder not firing until it got warm. I said that then may be the issue. I said go by the auto parts store and borrow their compression tester gauge and check there first. This guy bypassed his handlebar switch and just put a push button switch onto the side of his bike straight to the starter. This bike is basically a chopper style. It ran great up until the switch went bad on the handlebar, then it just won't start until he rolls it off and throws the clutch. After that it runs pretty dang good.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 15:15 - 07 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

My money is on a bad earth, try applying 12v straight to the start as others have said.
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331X2
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 15:30 - 07 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if it's relevant but I'd be stripping the starter motor and checking the condition on the commutator and brushes, carbon build-up can short the segments and rob power leading to slow cranking, as can arcing as a result of stuck or worn brushes.
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