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Ballpark price for internal wall removal

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dabigginger
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Ballpark price for internal wall removal Reply with quote

The previous owner of our house converted part of the double garage into a study. As part of this, the floor in the study area was raised a few inches to match the height of the rest of the house and two internal plasterboard walls, about 10 ft and 8ft were fitted. One of these walls has a 2-gang electrical socket, so this would need removing.

There's no point in getting anyone over to quote for this until I get some spare cash together, so I'm wondering if there are anyone in the trade on here who might be able to give me a rough idea on what I should budget for this.

Thanks in advance!
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to your local library (if it's still there). There will be a book about how much you should expect to pay for certain kinds of work by professionals.

It usually gives a high, low and median figure.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Internal plasterboard walls are a DIY job. Wink
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Internal plasterboard walls are a DIY job. Wink


this ^^
tip it out if its not load bearing just tear it down
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrGs1 wrote:
I could take down in two minutes with a sledge hammer.


You're not special any idiot could do that. A decent mattock man and a labourer could dismantle it, get it in the skip and tidied up in not much longer and it wouldn't look like some oaf had driven through with a bulldozer.

OP: If you can get the electrics moved do the rest yourself. To do it by-the-book properly would cost hundreds. Plasterboard is controlled waste and mustn't go into a general rubbish skip. Snap it up, put into bin bags and take it to your nearest waste transfer yard with a couple of twenties in your hand they might get rid of it all for cash. Expect there to be rockwool type insulation between the boards.
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Last edited by Pete. on 22:58 - 24 Nov 2015; edited 1 time in total
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duhawkz
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldpink wrote:
Ste wrote:
Internal plasterboard walls are a DIY job. Wink


this ^^
tip it out if its not load bearing just tear it down


not necessarily, some stud walls can be load bearing. probably best to check first.

[/quote]
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Ste
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You check by removing it and seeing what happens next. Wink

The OP says the walls were fitted as part of the study area which was converted from being a double garage. From that I assume that they're not going to be load bearing walls.
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

duhawkz wrote:
oldpink wrote:

this ^^
tip it out if its not load bearing just tear it down


not necessarily, some stud walls can be load bearing. probably best to check first.



I worked in the building trade for 20 years and have never came across a timber frame & plasterboard wall that was load bearing
thats what RSJ's concrete lintels and brick walls are for Thumbs Up
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dabigginger
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it could be worth a punt. I'm 99% sure it won't be load bearing. Although it was put up many years after the house was built, I don't know if it's supporting the ceiling in any way. I honestly don't know if the ceiling was done at the same time as the house or when the wall was put up.

Are there any people you can get to confirm one way or another? It's obviously in any builders interest to say it needs them to do the job...
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dabigginger
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
You check by removing it and seeing what happens next. Wink


Laughing
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 24 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

i ve just this job almost exactly at my brother in laws house,
except the previous owners converted the whole double garage into a gym complete with hot tub, steam room and sauna,
false floors, and all sorts of she-nanagans.

turned it back into a large single garage, with a laundry and a "wine store" took more time to rip everything out than what it did to put up a new stud wall, and re-plasterboard every thing,


so in short, while timber and plasterboard walls can be load bearing,
in a garage its almost certainly not,
and its not really the done thing in the uk, although new builds are heading that way.

just knock down the wall. pull the plasterboard off first, then you'll see how its constructed.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's above it? If the garage roof has joists then as long as the joists still span the garage, the stud walls won't perform any structural function.

If you want to take it down yourself, first make sure the socket has no power to it, then take a lump-hammer to the plasterboard. Once this is off and the insulation is out of the way you can tackle the studding. Either get jiggy with the lump-hammer and a wrecking-bar or use a drill/driver if you want to make less mess and don't want to disturb the floor/ceiling joists which it should be screwed to.

Depending on where you live, a builder will probably charge you one day's labour at 150-250 quid, plus another 50 for disposing of the waste.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrGs1 wrote:
I could take down in two minutes with a sledge hammer.


£1000 you would take more than 121 seconds.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

How was the floor raised ?
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:
How was the floor raised ?
Good question.

Garages that are attached to a house are supposed to have a floor 6 inches lower than the house. Has someone carefully put in a removable wooden floor or poured concrete straight on top of the garage floor which will leave you with a step in the middle of the room.
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Rockhopper
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the previous owner did it properly to comply with Building Regulations then he should have insulated the floor which perhaps explains the increase in height?
Current building regs say that instead of the 100mm step that used to be required you can have the garage floor sloping towards the door. Also the door from the garage into the house needs to be a fire door.
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dabigginger
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diggs wrote:
What's above it? If the garage roof has joists then as long as the joists still span the garage, the stud walls won't perform any structural function.

Depending on where you live, a builder will probably charge you one day's labour at 150-250 quid, plus another 50 for disposing of the waste.


I think it's just joists, then the usual roof beams. If a builder could do it in a day, I might be tempted to get then to do it just to avoid any hassle. I know a good plasterer who be able to her a nice finish over what is left behind.

Thanks Smile
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dabigginger
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:
How was the floor raised ?


I know there are chip board panels underneath the carpet. I have a funny feeling there's a load of polystyrene underneath this to insulate this. I suspect the chipboard is resting on some kind of frame booked to the concrete base.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 25 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

order a skip and get the sledge hammer out, isolate the electric supply for that socket (is there no light in that part ?) and worry once the wall is down, coil up socket once wall is down and call sparky to remove.
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dabigginger
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 31 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I decided to go ahead with the sledge hammer and crowbar. It's taken about 15-20 hours to get it to this stage and I'm nearly there now. I can't believe how massive it is. Results so far:

https://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b105/dabigginger/Stu/G40Work/IMGP7607.jpg

https://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b105/dabigginger/Stu/G40Work/IMGP7606.jpg

Thanks for the advice Smile
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Ste
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 31 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was that crack there before you sledge hammered?
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dabigginger
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 31 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing I found out a few weeks ago one of my neighbours is a retired builder. He had a little look up in the roof space a couple of weeks back and confirmed it wasn't a load bearing wall.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 01 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

dabigginger wrote:
Laughing I found out a few weeks ago one of my neighbours is a retired builder. He had a little look up in the roof space a couple of weeks back and confirmed it wasn't a load bearing wall.


That 'Trinket Tray' in the corner isn't very 'load bearing' now either. Smile

Cool Bob the Builder job.
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