Rounded out stanchion bolt.

[R1stu]

So the mot is due today on the pan. I had the fork seals replaced a couple of weeks ago, but one blew on the way home from the garage.

I have now brought a genuine Honda seal and went to fit it yesterday. It looks however that they rounded the head on thevallen bolt that holds the stanchion into the lowers, as it had a splined pattern on it from where they jammed an oversized bit in there.

Low and behold, everything I tried resulted in the bits just turning out. So as this is resessed, what is going to be the best way to get it out, so I can replace the seal?
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[P.]

Who replaced the seals initially.

Return to mender.

[R1stu]

[Raffles]

Get drilling.
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[Old Git Racing]

Try banging an oversize torx bit in, shouldn't be that tight if its in the yoke.

OGR
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[bugeye_bob]

typically you can hammer a Torq bit in to remove,
If this has been done you could pop a nut over the top of the bolt and tack weld inside the nut to the bolt and remove with a spanner/socket.

hth

[Snowdonia Rider]

If the garage has rounded the head I'd take it back and tell them to sort it. A garage cross threaded my tank bracket before and tried to hide it. They should just be honest and say "sorry mate we've fucked up ______. We'll put it right for you", instead of trying to cover things up.
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[chris-red]

+1 on hammering a torx bit in, it has never failed for me.
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[stinkwheel]

If the torx bit doesn't work, drill the head off.

I've rounded out plenty before myself (before I bought an impact wrench). They drill out very easily and the stump that's left unscrews with fingers. Especially if it's been out recently.

Remember to order a new one.

If the seal blew that quickly, it was either torn as it went in, you have pitting on the stanchion or you have exessive play on the bushings. So check those bushings.
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[Islander]

Spline bits are often more effective than torx bits as they come in a wider range of sizes.

[R1stu]

[stinkwheel]

[kramdra]

If the seal is just leaking, I suggest a couple of things that have always worked for me. I have replaced several sets of fork seals. I used genuine parts. They *never* seal perfectly first time so I always do the following.

Seal mate tool. Its a cheap thin piece of plastic that you slide under the seal, but there are free alternatives. It resets the seal lips

Apply a small amount of grease around the seal, under the dust seal and stanchion. It doesnt need much.

Pull brake and pump the forks. It will be sealed perfectly in 10-20 bounces.

My stanchions are perfect and my cbr6 is still on original seals at 70k miles.


This will avoid needing to drill the bolt.