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kawasaki zephyr 550

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rtcabal
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 25 May 2007
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PostPosted: 05:37 - 25 May 2007    Post subject: kawasaki zephyr 550 Reply with quote

hi there. this is my first post on this forum. any help would be greatly appreciated...

i've had a '91 kawasaki zr550 for a little time. man, is it quirky! long story short, i had a bunch of work done on it before i put it in storage for the winter. it ran like a champ at the end, though it took them all summer to finish. now, i try to get it running for happy spring time and i can't get it to idle. maybe i'm just using poor cold start procedures, so, like i said, i'd be grateful for any help.

i can get it fired up with the choke on, but that's it. it revs high (about 5k), and it will only stay running with the choke on full. i let it get warm like this, trying to coax it to idle, but nothing.

thanks for looking,
taylor
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 05:58 - 25 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

like most bikes that have been sitting for a while,
do the basics first,
drain the float bows, check that the oil hasn't got any petrol in it from faulty float valves letting the fuel past, (probably best just to drop the oil an way)
change he plugs,
once its basically running check that its firing on all cylinders.
you might be running on 3 and thats why it not idling properly.

try all that and go from there

good luck Thumbs Up
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rtcabal
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PostPosted: 06:17 - 25 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the help. that's the kind of answer i was hoping for.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 06:22 - 25 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

no worries mate, keep us posted Thumbs Up
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 14:34 - 25 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pilot jets are gunked up.
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 25 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel shouldn't go off in 6months, mine was standing nearly 8 months and started first time.
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bish777
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 27 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

could just be rusty gunk has settled and blocked things, even if the fuel isnt stale.

It is worth replacing the air filter as well as its most likely blocke dby damp.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 27 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

bish777 wrote:
It is worth replacing the air filter as well as its most likely blocked by damp.

Blocked by *damp*????????
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bish777
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PostPosted: 00:31 - 28 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

After wringing the water out of a mates VN750's air filter after a lay up, Its a pretty serious possibility. Condensation can get in anywhere, and paper air filters are pretty vulnerable.

Itll cause the thing to run far too ruich and flood, therefore preventing the poor thing from starting especially if the person uses the choke.
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rtcabal
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 01 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, i'm going over there today to check the plugs and the filter. should have done this first, but it ran very well about 6 months ago.

i'll let you know what i find. if the plugs look fine and the air filter checks out (which i think is not paper, in fact, and is relatively new), then i'll drain the bowls.

thanks for the help.
-t
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 20:52 - 01 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be worth putting some fresh fuel in anyway. I dragged my H100 out today for the first time in a couple of months and it ran like a bagowank until I'd got some fresh fuel in there. Couple of miles on from the filling station and it was ringing away like a good-un.
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 02 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a zephyr 550 and my pal still has one and we both had the same problem in the past.

You need to either replace the choke cable or force WD40 down the cable by purchasing a device which allows you to do that as crap/rust particles can eventually make the cable become sticky. Once it's like that cable choke will stay partly on as it doesn't have complete free movement.

Forcing down WD40 down the cable is easier otherwise you'll need to know what you're doing, as you need to tape the new cable to the old one to feed it through otherwise the fuel tank will need to come to get access.

You canb get that device from any good bike & accessories shop

Good measure also my bike had only got past the MOT with the choke fully on - phew! - a week later fuel was coming out the overflow pipe when the bike was stood up upright even when the engine was off i.e. the float valve within carb finally became stuck and the only solution was to remove the carbs from the bike and spray some carb cleaner inside after opening the float bowls at the bottom of the carbs plus spraying a pressurised can of air bought from maplins electronics.

-- Don't ever remove the caps on top of the carbs because it's a bugger fit back rubber diaghram into the grooves.

Fit a fuel filter to the fuel line to prevent any crap/rust reaching the carbs.

You could try meantime spray some carb cleaner into the bike's air intake to help prevent doing whats mentioned above !

Also, if the bike has been on it's side stand for several months over the months then rust from the fuel tank or crap in the fuel can eventually make the float valve stick and cause fuel to out through the overflow pipe at bottom of the bike. It happened to my Zephyr as I didn't have a garage to put in for safe keeping over th winter and it only has a bike cover to keep it from the elements.
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rtcabal
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PostPosted: 00:54 - 07 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks alot.

the #2 spark plug was fouled. i pulled it, cleaned it, then couldn't get the damn thing to start at all.

if its not firing in that cylinder, what should be my next order of business? i want to avoid taking the carbs off, as they are a major pain to get back on, sandwiched between the airbox and the motor like they are.

the choke definitely needs coaxing; i'll try lubing it and see if that helps. but when it ran before, poorly, i had to hold the choke all the way down. it wouldn't run otherwise.

i also drained the bowls and the gas that came out looked really nice.

i really want to solve this problem. i have a factory manual for it. was going to test the ic coil, as its easy with a multimeter. after that, not sure where to go with the ignition.

i appreciate all the help.
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 10 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you tried switching spark plugs around to test it? If test multi-test shows nothing wrong then try replacing spark plug(s) but if defective check connection blocks for contaminiation and clean with WD40 in case electrical charge is not reaching spark plug
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 04:12 - 11 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

rtcabal wrote:
thanks alot.

the #2 spark plug was fouled. i pulled it, cleaned it, then couldn't get the damn thing to start at all.

if its not firing in that cylinder, what should be my next order of business? i want to avoid taking the carbs off, as they are a major pain to get back on, sandwiched between the airbox and the motor like they are..

You're not going to like this bit:
Take the carbs off, pull the float bowls, floats, float valves, mains, pilots, blow a bit/lot of air thru the orfices, clean ALL the parts you removed. Make sure the slides actually slide (you can do this without popping the carb tops off) Reasemble & fire it up.

Which is what ya should have done after I told ya the pilots are gunked back on May 25th... Wink


With the tank off the bike:
Pop the intake boots back INTO the airbox, but not all the way. Do NOT loose the spring thingies.
Remove the front brake lever (just the lever part)
Loosen the clamps on the intake mainfolds
Pull carbs backwards out of the manifolds
Pick up the piece of metal plate that I'm about to tell you about below* & slide it between the manifolds & the carbs to make it a LOT easier to:
Swing the carbs out to the right side of the bike.
Take the 2 screws out of the righthand handlebar switch cluster & pull it apart (now ya see why I told ya to take the brake lever off?)
Pop the cable ends out of the throttle housing
Pop the other end out of the carbs & put the carbs on the bench.

Now go the hardware store & buy 32 M4 Stainless Allen bolts & a 4mm allen key. You want the allens to be 14mm long, so thats M4x14mm. While you're there buy what is called a "split pin remover" which looks like a buggered screwdriver with a curvy pointy tip.

Now go back to the bit where I said "you won't like this bit" & do what I said.

* bit of thin (1mm or so) aluminium or steel etc approx 3in wide & 15in long.

I guess you can figure out how to pop the choke cable off without me having to go out into my backyard in the pitch black & look at the one I've got leaning against the wall?


& now that all time favourite line from Kawasaki manuals:
"Assembley is the reverse of disassembley" Wink

The "buggered screwdriver" looking thing is to help ya get the boots back onto the back of the carbs.


Any questions?
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 02:22 - 12 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apparently "no" is the answer to the any question enquiry then?

Or have you been stunned into immobility? Wink
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rtcabal
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 25 May 2007
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 18 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i went through the ignition system yesterday. everything checked out except the ic igniter. since the bike would only start reluctantly, then only run at 6k rpm this makes sense to me, as it controls the spark between the ic coil and the ignition coils.

any experience with this? basically, there's a chart in the manual with a list of resistances that you measure between the pins. many of them failed. this thing costs $450, or else i'd have ordered one already.

once again, i don't think this is carb related as the gas that i drain from the bowls looks really clean, and the carbs were rebuilt before it was parked last winter.

thanks for the help.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 00:12 - 19 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

rtcabal wrote:
once again, i don't think this is carb related as the gas that i drain from the bowls looks really clean, and the carbs were rebuilt before it was parked last winter.
thanks for the help.

The colour of petrol drained out of the float bowl drains is NOT going to tell you anything about the pilots being blocked. ZR550's (& several other Kaws) can gum up their carbs in 2 weeks, sometimes less.

How many cylinders are actually firing? Put your tongue on the headers & lemme know how many times it sizzles. Or just touch it with a wet rag if yer chicken...

One dropped cylinder is fuel or a duff plug, 2 dropped cylinders is ignition, either 1 & 4, or 2 & 3....


By all means go piss away 450quid if you want. Wink Does it have new plugs in it & a fully charged battery?
You're still going to do what I told ya tho if you want to get it running on all four..
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rtcabal
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Joined: 25 May 2007
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 19 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

the ic igniter failed the tests in the manual. when it did start and run it would only do so poorly, at 6k rpm and with the choke open all the way. doesn't that sound like messed up spark timing?

has anyone ever experienced a fried ic igniter?
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 01:36 - 19 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You stated earlier it wasn't firing on #2, so thats either a plug or fuel. NOT the ignitor.

However, It's been about a week since I told you how to fix it & almost a month since I told you what the problem is. At this point I'm done. Go do whatever the fuck you want with it. Rolling Eyes
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bish777
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 00:26 - 20 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ignition unit is very very unlikely to fail.

Strip and clean the carbies, and check your HT leads and caps.
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rtcabal
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PostPosted: 07:28 - 20 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow.
thanks for the help.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 14:39 - 20 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

rtcabal wrote:
wow.
thanks for the help.

WTF? are you a really slow reader???
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Beena22
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 20 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 09 Jun 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what was the outcome on this then as i've just bought a Zephyr 550 and it wont idle either? I have booked it in with a mechanic to get the carbs cleaned as I believe that is the likeliest suspect.

Just in case anyone else was having the same problem then it may be worth noting that it was the pilot jets clogged up and after a good clean and soak it idled fine.
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newellphillip...
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 20 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 20 Jun 2016    Post subject: Kawasaki zephyr 550 Reply with quote

I have just brought 1993 550 zephyr non runner
bike has no pipes whatsoever on carb Keihin CVK3O i need help with what pipes go where as i cant seem to find picture or diagram any where
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The last post was made 9 years, 234 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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