Lexmoto XTRs 125 / My Doer Upper Blog

[NutsyUk]

Hi this is my first post so bare with me...
I'm having my midlife crisis... I got a Bike!

I just got a XTRs for a really great couldn't be ignored deal. I think the bike in its current state is worth a lot more than I paid I know there are plenty of Chinese bike haters out there, but I'v been reading a lot about them and I think its fair to say Lexmoto have been a little better than most? With good parts support...
6000Kms on the clock...

Anyway The bike needs a little work;
Back brake isn't triggering the brake light.
Horns not working.
Downpipes a bit rusty but savable for now, I think I could give it a gentle sand/clean then give it some anti rust high temp paint. I know I can buy a new stainless downpipe for 50 quid but im now broke so everything as cheap as i can go :p
Rev dial is fairly slow to catch up with actual rev.
Accelerator grip has too much play before the cable pulls...
Needs new tires, back would normally take 100s but been reading 110s fit fine too...
And some of the wiring could do with being redone and sealed.

Aesthetically the bike look to be in amazing nick. No real rust issues on the frame. Just a couple of spots in screw holes and one weld bubble... Easy to clean up and fix. One thing that MUST change is the break light. Its a clear plastic one with a red coated bulb. The red light looks like it was dipped in cheap ink, the inks cracked and the light comes out bright pink...

Now I admit I'm no bike expert and I havnt even taken my CBT yet. My motor mechanic days where when I was in school Im 33 now :p So its going to be a learning experience for me.

The acceleration seems a little slow according to my brother who has an aprilla 125, but as far as I can tell everythings stock lexmoto (apart from indicator lights). I assume it just needs a cleaning and oil change at this stage. Maybe new spark plugs?

Anyway now the questions

Just so I dont miss anything, anyone got a good comprehensive check list for servicing these bikes? I plan to do it myself...
If its allowed, does anyone know where I can get a downloadable copy of the haynes manual? I think I need the generic Chinese motobike manual 4871?
As for the acceleration, I'm not a racer and tbh the bikes only to get me from A to B but I wouldnt mind a little more acceleration response but still remain learner legal, does anyone have any tips for that?
Its a 8.5Kw engine according to google thats 11 horsepower I think learner legal limit is 14? Is there anyway to squeeze out a little more power form this bike? A new carb? Sprocket calibration change? New CDI?

I realised when getting this bike there are limitations. Its not going to be as powerful than a Honda CBR but any tips would be really appreciated.

Also what is a little strange is when I did the checks on the bike the HPI checks report claimed that its only had 1 owner. But i'm certain its had more. As the guy I got it off got it from a second hand dealer who got it from some where whoever.... And the guy I got it off didnt do any work on the bike as he only got it to work on as a project but didnt get to do any work on it. Hence the after market indicators gives it away that he wasn't the first owner.
Everything legally checks out, had the v5 paperwork MOT logbook (which was empty because its never been MOTed too new)
Just something strange I noticed.

So yeah, thats me Hi

[Evil Hans]

[Alan1986]

Hi,
When you say it was a good price I hope it actually was as lexmoto's are relatively cheap brand new,

Sorry I can't help with your questions though,
Hopefully it doesn't need too much work to at least get it decent enough for on the road
____________________
Cbt Done, Currently wobbling around on a Cbf125 and love it
DAS some time soon

[charlie74]

Haynes Chinese motorcycles £18 halfrauds

[NutsyUk]

I got it for a very good price, I realise this model goes for 1199 new. i think in its current state its probably worth about 500 to 700 quid. I paid a lot less than that... i dont want to give an actual figure as I feel a little bad only parting with so much money.

It was a totally fair deal and the seller was happy with it, but my morals do feel a little like I should have told them it was worth more...

The expected cost of doing everything up still doesnt reach anywhere near the bikes value when I add what I paid...

In this case, while it sounded too good to be true. It turned out to be true.

I just think I got really lucky on it. The guy brought it as a project to do it up (it had less to do up than he thought) and he just never got round to doing anything so decided to sell it.

However there is one question mark. he was told the bottom end needed work. But from our early inspections it seems alright, though if it does need more work the costs of that still wont bring the cost to the value of the bike when done up...

[Evil Hans]

[NutsyUk]

Tbh Im only guessing based on the prices of what ive seen on gumtree and ebay and autotrader.

Its a good doer upper... There is just so little need doing :p

[Rogerborg]

I wouldn't spend one penny more on it than you absolutely have to, as you'll never see it back. Bear in mind that if you see an advert asking £500, it's because nobody has paid that for it yet.

The XTR uses a low compression pushrod engine that's a copy of the 1970s vintage CG125 lump. You're not going to get any more speed out of it. Just keep it running right with regular servicing - it'll take any 10W40 oil, the cheaper the better (OK, maybe not Poundland ).

https://hondacg125.awardspace.com/ is a decent resource for the engine, much of the other processes will apply as well, and YouTube should provide the rest.

The rear brake will most likely be actuated by a pull-switch. Have a look at the pedal, find a wire attached to it running upwards and follow it until you find something like this:

https://images.wemoto.com/full/ELECTRICAL_STOP/10025051.jpg

It'll either need adjusted (move it upwards using the nut on it) so that it trips when the pedal is pressed, and/or removed and cleaned.

Any universal 12V horn should work, although if yours has a screw in the middle of it, try adjusting that to see if it springs back into life.

I'd ignore the rev counter until everything else is done.

The accelerator cable should have some sort of adjustment mechanism on it - it'll be no more complicated than adjusting pushbike brakes.

The wiring is likely to be fragile. If you don't have a multimeter, I'd strongly suggest dropping £5 on one.

Why does it need new tyres after just 3700 miles?
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[NutsyUk]

Hi just read the post and already up there with you...

The break switch seems dead, been testing it with my multi meter (already own one though cant show accurate volts as batteries low), glad its just the switch and not he wiring.

The horn seems dead, I used a 12v line off a psu I got, still nothing beeped... The horn circuitry seems fine (multi meter again)

Ill have a go ad loosening the middle bolt on the horn see if that makes any difference.

Pulled the spark plug out, wasnt even tightly screwed in. Rather black, so ill prolly need to tweak the carb. Though its not been properly ridden for a while.

As for the tires, its the factory tires. The bikes 6300kms on the clock so about 4500 miles? The treads not so much the problem. the rubbers cracking a fair bit around the sides. Its not blown yet but i very much doubt they'll pass a MOT.

Though currently the most troubling thing is the back light running light doesn't come on when the headlights are on. Going to have to do some more deeper investigation on that one.

I plan to get a better quality spark plug. 110 tires for the back. But after I got used to this bike in its current config, considering a bigger (still legal) carb.

Oh one other thing, I need to get a new rubber/plastic chain guard. A longer one as the chain does seem to touch some of the back wheel rod(is it called?)

[Evil Hans]

[Rogerborg]

[NutsyUk]

Hehe dont be sorry its my first bike It was really only a hypothetical, can it be tweaked up kinda thing. Tbh im just really happy i got it so cheap. Just wish the insurance was too. (struggling as i have some history, best to not go into detail. My fault tried to do the right thing after)

But what I meant by tweak the carb was just change the air mixture as it seems to be burning too rich if the sooted up spark plug is anything to go by.

The geek in me wants to install digital speedos and rev counters :p But it seems pointless really on this bike. When I get a big boys bike maybe

And yeah the pad on the swing arm... It might be too slack. Will see what I can do there. But my dad says its happened on his and my brothers crossers and its not too much to worry about.

Funny thing, i realise the chinese bikes arent loved much... When I went to pick up the bike, we had to go bout 40 miles for it. On the way back we stopped at a mcdonalds that seemed to have a motorbike meet up going on... Im not telepathic but I could almost hear what people were thinking... SHITE BIKE! :p

But Im happy with it so far. Its cheap, cheap to run (for me not cheap to insure But nothing will be) Going to be a very simple job to get fully up and running. And the main reason for it is to get from A to B without having to rely on dad at age of 33 After moving back home into the country.

You see I lived in London and pushed biked everywhere. In the country everything is so far away... :p

Oh one Minor Fail... I managed to scratch the fairing around one side of the fuel tank , with the fuel tank when removing it to get to the electrics under it... Hopefully some t cut and maybe a spot of black paint would clean that up.

[NutsyUk]

Yay more fun... Do the chinese have any kind of standards in wiring?
Ive taken the side back fairing off to see if theres any obvious reason for the night running light isnt turning on...

Again my electronics is a little rusty...
But since when was Green Live (+)
and Red was Neutral (-) ?

Also the said green is not just any colour of green but earth wire green. But without a yellow line.

Also it seems while Red is neutral off the battery but Yellow is neutral in other areas... as is brown and blue and some other colours. Though while multiple neutrals are useful if your running a switch off the neutral side of a light.
One other oddity I found with the wiring for the back lights. One indicator shared the positive line with the numberplate light, while the other indicator has its own line.

I would have thought the night time running light would be powered off the same line as the numberplate light.

Anyway Im struggling to find where the fault lies... Cant be in the light control switches? I mean they work...

Anyway yeah... Its looking like im going to have to buy that haynes manual Bleh more money going out of a already depleted current account... I hope it has the wiring loom circuit diagram in it...

[Rogerborg]

That's unusual. You're certain that there's a big red line coming off the -ve terminal and running to the frame / engine earth point?

The Haynes manual is a generic one for these bikes, it's unlikely to have a specific wiring diagram for the XTR.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Meatybeaty]

Only Lexmoto diagram i got

[NutsyUk]

Tis odd, about to go back in and fit the break switch back on managed to get it working...

Ill take a look at the map of the london underground when i get back

Thanks while i realise the look might be a different design than the one you posted might still give me some clues...

[NutsyUk]

Fixed the peddle break light. The switch worked...
Still trying to figure out why the rear running light isnt working when the headlights are turned on...

I need to check but a friend mentioned that the break light might have 2 filaments in it. One for running light one for break... one could have burned out...

Will check a little later... Trying to comprehend how fekked we are now, after voting to leave eu

[Rogerborg]

[Meatybeaty]

This one as well

[Rogerborg]

[NutsyUk]

Ohh that diagram is good I guess there might be slight revisions between the none s and s model... but still that helps.

Out of curiosity is there a way with this setup to install a gear selected indicator?

[WD Forte]

Brake not break !
/grammar nazi

One of my lads currently has an Arrow
Having sorted a few of these far eastern bikes out
they're all pretty much of muchness under the plastics
and styling and quite simple to work on.

Wiring diagrams abound on tinternet so never had any need to buy one and all the ones I've worked on had the usual colour conventions
Green for ground etc
previous owners 'improvements' can be challenging

I advise you to forget fancy clocks and such and just treat it as
what it is, a low powered commuter.
Reliability and economy are what you should be aiming for.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[NutsyUk]

[WD Forte]

Basically JFGI
That's what I did for the Arrow wiring diagram

In my experience, bike makers follow the same colour conventions
across all models so even if you have a slightly different model diagram, you can stilll get useful clues.
For instance, Green for ground.
( BMW use brown BTW its a euro thing)
cba to look it up right now but as I recall
Suzuki and Kawasaki use black/white and black/yellow for ground

A glance shows me that Lexmoto use a very similar convention to Honda
Green - ground
Black - power out from igntion switch ie switched live
light blue and orange for R&L flashers
and so on

Get googling and buy a meter as well
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[NutsyUk]

God a meter and making good use of it :p Though even though i just replaced the battery on the meter its still showing the wrong volt level Anyway still working to show me a feed...

Anyway today is cleaning the chain and sprockets day.