Oil change problem

[6r4h4m]

Drain plug stiffer than a stranglewanked out politician.

Eventually unscrewed the bastard. Small chunk of metal came off with it: about 4mm worth. The plug head had got stuck fast to the base of the bike, and this small segment of its 'seat' has come away and partly disintegrated. So now I won't have a seal when I screw the plug back in.

(No idea what's happened to the washer, but I guess that's academic at this point).

Any suggestions for a fix? Even a short term one? Is there a product I could use to rebuild the disintegrated section, that's not going to be dissolved by the oil?

Thanks!

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

Buy a new sump plug from your dealer. Or get a magnetic one off of eBay depending on which is cheaper. It's just a generic bolt to be fair, so not too tricky to pick another one up. I wouldn't dick around trying to glue it back together.

The crush washer is either mashed onto the sump plug or stuck to the bottom of the sump (or the monkey that last changed the oil didn't use one).
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[Nobby the Bastard]

Are you saying that a chunk has come away from the engine casing?
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[6r4h4m]

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[Nobby the Bastard]

What bike?
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[6r4h4m]

[Nobby the Bastard]

if it's a CG125 copy your fucked. They don't have a separate sump. You can try building up the broken bit with chemical metal (oruse it to glue the broken bit back on) but I wouldn't hold out many hopes.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[janner_10]

Replacement engine on eBay £100

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/kymco-pulsar-125-engine-/232133366776?hash=item360c3a13f8:g:7wwAAOSw8w1X8-zR

Easiest solution for less time.

After that flog it and get something Jap
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[Azoth]

I would try drilling out the sump plug hole. Making it bigger but round. Then self-tapping a bolt into there, along with a copper crush washer and an ordinary rubber washer, for use as the new sump plug.

Not saying it would work. Just saying I would try it.
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[Beehive Bedlam]

I agree with janner_10 a replacement engine is your best course of action.

Also for future reference forget magnetic sump plugs from ebay I bought one for my Varadero and the head of it parted ways with the thread. Luckily it wasn't tight and I was able to remove the remnants with a screwdriver.

[RhynoCZ]

I also advise against the magnetic type of sump plug. Although there are many happy owners, there are also quite a lot of cases the ebay plug causing more trouble than benefit.

Sump plugs are not expensive, and it's not like you change them ever year either. Get a original one. Copper crush washers are like 30p per piece.
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[6r4h4m]

[Dave....]

Use a helicoil insert.You will need to buy kit and correct length of insert.Another one I have used before is https://www.threadrepairkits.co.uk/EZLOK%20inserts.htm which you drill then tap oversize with standard tap, unlike Helicoil which requires specific tap.
The latter is better if hole is way oversized for Helicoil.
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[Nobby the Bastard]

A piece of the casing has broken off. a helicoil or similar will nor replace tha mating face for the copper crush-washer.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Dave....]

Updated my post with alternative.
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Honda Africa Twin

[Nobby the Bastard]

[Dave....]

Another alternative, what size is original thread?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BGS-Tools-Brake-Thread-Repair-Threaded-Inserts-M12x1-25-12mm-long-for-BGS-8651/291756434666?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38661%26meid%3D039c4df711454225935f4aae8e9125fe%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D381623939461

or reface casing with a counterbore drill?
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[Nobby the Bastard]

I'm not convinced that a thread insert is the solution. You're just replacing 1 thread that the oil can leak out of with two threads that the oil can leak out of. Trying to get a good oil-tight seal between the casing and the insert will be down to luck and you'll only get one attempt.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Azoth]

[Beehive Bedlam]

JB Weld or similar isn't going to work.

The mechanic is going to tell you to buy a new engine/bike.

[stinkwheel]

This thread is useless without pictures.

The advice contained within this thread is pure guesswork without pictures.

Several possible solutions present themselves to me off the top of my head but I couldn't say if they were feasable without seeing exactly what the damage is.
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[ajag]

From the post it seems like it is not the thread but the matting that has come off, but pictures are required. if it is the matting, wouldn't one of those washers with the rubber in the middle (dowty/bonded washers) help?

Probably don't have enough rubber to make up for the missing piece of metal.

[qarka]

I fixed a bit of crankcase on my chinky 125 with chemical metal and it lasted the life of the bike (another 4 years). However it wasn't in an area that would be disturbed by routine maintenance so I wouldn't be confident in your case.
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[Nobby the Bastard]