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Front Brake Binding On New Pads Only

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Falco
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 01 Feb 2017    Post subject: Front Brake Binding On New Pads Only Reply with quote

So the issues with my brake have morphed into something new. This morning I removed the calipers, replaced the original seals (they were fine but I'd originally thought I'd change them anyway) and took out the dust seals in case they were causing problems with the pistons retracting. No luck, still binding.

However putting the old pads back in the binding has mysteriously gone! Thinking The pistons were more of less spotless with only a couple of marks that I didn't feel rough at all.

Is it possible the new pads are slightly over-sized and will wear in or is there something stopping the piston from retracting properly when the pad is bigger?
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 01 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

New pads can bind slightly while they bed in, shouldn't be really bad but it'll be noticeable when you spin the wheel by hand.

Make sure your pistons are pushed all the way back in as well.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 01 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

tom_e wrote:
New pads can bind slightly while they bed in, shouldn't be really bad but it'll be noticeable when you spin the wheel by hand.

Make sure your pistons are pushed all the way back in as well.


Unfortunately the binding with the new pads is quite bad. With the old pads the wheel will spin 1-1.5 times, with the new pads the wheel will barely make it 1/2 of a revolution.
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davethekwak
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 01 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Binding can also be caused by discs. Warped or ridged can create binding on new pads until the pads have worn past this point.
If the binding is consistent throughout and entire revolution of the wheel then unlikely to be warped disks, could still be caused by ridges.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 16:18 - 01 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the definitely the Right pads?

My TDM uses FA319/2 on the rear NOT FA319

FA319s are for FJR1200s and are about 2mm too thick.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 01 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

davethekwak wrote:
Binding can also be caused by discs. Warped or ridged can create binding on new pads until the pads have worn past this point.
If the binding is consistent throughout and entire revolution of the wheel then unlikely to be warped disks, could still be caused by ridges.


Yeah the binding is consistent throughout the revolution, no obvious ridges but I'll have a closer look at the discs next chance I get.

chris-red wrote:
Are the definitely the Right pads?

My TDM uses FA319/2 on the rear NOT FA319

FA319s are for FJR1200s and are about 2mm too thick.


They look to be the right pads (though they are quite old- from 2011), they are Goldfren AD 104s which are fine for er5 C1's. The inner pad is very slightly too thick compared to EBC pad dimensions (its 0.4mm over).
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 01 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given that they are correct pads, and made to the right specs regarding size and shape, are all the mating surfaces in the caliper body etc completely clean? Pads can resist full retraction back to the correct position if there is the slightest crud in the tiny crevices and corners. Even badly applied paint on the corners of the metal pad backing can have an effect - I have in the past frequently had to sand away blobs of paint from the corners of the pad metal. Also best to ensure that on all the moving parts only grease is (sparingly!) applied and copper grease only applied between the back of the pads and the caliper. I read somewhere years ago that copper grease can degenerate into tiny balls of copper and thus no good for moving parts.
HTH
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 01 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

OP, go for a short ride and don't use the brake in question. Then touch the brake disc/s in question. If piping hot, then you have a problem. If cold or mildly warm, then it's just a matter of time till it settles on its own.
Also, IF you can roll the motorcycle, then the brake binding is not as bad as you are describing it.

To speed things up, I used to go for a ride and slightly applied pressure on the brake lever/pedal while keeping the throttle open. That would wear the pads quicker. DO NOT over do this, DO NOT put more pressure on the brake lever/pedal then it's necessary. IF it's the front brake, then too much brake + throttle equals you crashing the motorcycle. Also, DO NOT overheat the brake.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 00:36 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petemate wrote:
Given that they are correct pads, and made to the right specs regarding size and shape, are all the mating surfaces in the caliper body etc completely clean? Pads can resist full retraction back to the correct position if there is the slightest crud in the tiny crevices and corners. Even badly applied paint on the corners of the metal pad backing can have an effect - I have in the past frequently had to sand away blobs of paint from the corners of the pad metal. Also best to ensure that on all the moving parts only grease is (sparingly!) applied and copper grease only applied between the back of the pads and the caliper. I read somewhere years ago that copper grease can degenerate into tiny balls of copper and thus no good for moving parts.
HTH


Thanks for the tip, I cleaned the whole thing while it was off the bike. The insides were spotless as were the pistons, the outside was as clean as I could get it with rags and a toothbrush with brake cleaner.

I'll have a look at the back of the pads to see if there is anything out of place. There is red rubber grease on the sliding pins and on the seals to get the pistons in. Coppaslip goes on the end of the pad retaining pin that goes into the blind hole and the R clip that holds it.

RhynoCZ wrote:
OP, go for a short ride and don't use the brake in question. Then touch the brake disc/s in question. If piping hot, then you have a problem. If cold or mildly warm, then it's just a matter of time till it settles on its own.
Also, IF you can roll the motorcycle, then the brake binding is not as bad as you are describing it.

To speed things up, I used to go for a ride and slightly applied pressure on the brake lever/pedal while keeping the throttle open. That would wear the pads quicker. DO NOT over do this, DO NOT put more pressure on the brake lever/pedal then it's necessary. IF it's the front brake, then too much brake + throttle equals you crashing the motorcycle. Also, DO NOT overheat the brake.


I did just as you suggest last night, the ride was maybe a mile in total, stopped after 0.5 mile and checked it and again at the end. It was warm to the touch but not hot, however it was pissing with rain so I wonder if the spray was taking some of the heat out of it.
The bike can be rolled (though reversing it feels like going uphill) but the resistance can be felt.

Cheers for the tips, I have run out of time for this week, but I am planning to put the new seals back in next weekend, so I will put the new pads in at the same time and do as you suggest to see if it can be freed up.
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 08:43 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If they're just a little warm after a mile then I'd say they're fine, if they were properly binding even with the rain you'd burn yourself on the disc if you touched it for more than a second or 2.
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TUG
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Joined: 12 May 2007
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Falco wrote:
Petemate wrote:
Given that they are correct pads, and made to the right specs regarding size and shape, are all the mating surfaces in the caliper body etc completely clean? Pads can resist full retraction back to the correct position if there is the slightest crud in the tiny crevices and corners. Even badly applied paint on the corners of the metal pad backing can have an effect - I have in the past frequently had to sand away blobs of paint from the corners of the pad metal. Also best to ensure that on all the moving parts only grease is (sparingly!) applied and copper grease only applied between the back of the pads and the caliper. I read somewhere years ago that copper grease can degenerate into tiny balls of copper and thus no good for moving parts.
HTH


Thanks for the tip, I cleaned the whole thing while it was off the bike. The insides were spotless as were the pistons, the outside was as clean as I could get it with rags and a toothbrush with brake cleaner.

I'll have a look at the back of the pads to see if there is anything out of place. There is red rubber grease on the sliding pins and on the seals to get the pistons in. Coppaslip goes on the end of the pad retaining pin that goes into the blind hole and the R clip that holds it.

RhynoCZ wrote:
OP, go for a short ride and don't use the brake in question. Then touch the brake disc/s in question. If piping hot, then you have a problem. If cold or mildly warm, then it's just a matter of time till it settles on its own.
Also, IF you can roll the motorcycle, then the brake binding is not as bad as you are describing it.

To speed things up, I used to go for a ride and slightly applied pressure on the brake lever/pedal while keeping the throttle open. That would wear the pads quicker. DO NOT over do this, DO NOT put more pressure on the brake lever/pedal then it's necessary. IF it's the front brake, then too much brake + throttle equals you crashing the motorcycle. Also, DO NOT overheat the brake.


I did just as you suggest last night, the ride was maybe a mile in total, stopped after 0.5 mile and checked it and again at the end. It was warm to the touch but not hot, however it was pissing with rain so I wonder if the spray was taking some of the heat out of it.
The bike can be rolled (though reversing it feels like going uphill) but the resistance can be felt.

Cheers for the tips, I have run out of time for this week, but I am planning to put the new seals back in next weekend, so I will put the new pads in at the same time and do as you suggest to see if it can be freed up.


If it's an ER5 then the caliper may not be returning correctly on the slide, failing that it might be missing a retaining spring for the pads which my last ER5 had missing causing some binding.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 10:23 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plate above the pads? AFAIK it only stops the pads rattling, nothing else.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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Baffler186
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PostPosted: 10:45 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

They also sound ok to me. My brakes were binding on the Hondamatic, they were red hot to touch even after a 2 minute ride in freezing rain. I would leave them for now and check regularly. Even check them after 15 mins next time it's dry, but if they're binding to any serious extent then you wouldn't be able to touch them.
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