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Valve shim lapping

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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Valve shim lapping Reply with quote

Since all the valves on the Aprilia are on the tight side, one out of spec, I figured on just lapping them down.

Any of our resident gurus have any sage advice/tips? I've done a bit of lapping before so not completely green to the process.

I know in the past some manufacturers have given specific warnings against damaging the shim surfaces, is this still a thing?
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Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 14:08 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know about Aprilia but I've resurfaced valve shims on car engines by using a surface plate (or chunky sheet of glass, aluminium etc.) and very fine grades of wet+dry before finishing with micromesh. Significant scoring or wear can't be removed as they tend to be case hardened. Go through the hardened layer (no deeper than a few thou') and your shims won't last very long at all.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I figure they'd at least be case hardened. If I just lap the underside, the bucket side, and not the top face then at least that's not stripping away the area that needs it. Having the cam faces burring away the shim top wouldn't be a great thing.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I would lap the face with the size printed on it, then the next person won't get caught out. The main requirement is that they stay very parallel as the bucket turns in use. If you lap even a small taper (which you will without a jig) the shim won't rotate and you might get wear issues in the shim or the bucket.

We have a local bike shop that does exchanges for a few quid a shim. You might have too.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a decent bike garage at my work so I'll pop them in some zip bags labelled up and see if they're game.

The more I think about it the less inclined I am to the notion, like you say without a jig it's a gamble for the sake of 40 quid for new shims. I just like the idea of being able to dial in an exact measurement rather than having to go with the usual 0.05mm increments.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no exact measurement, just in tolerance and out of tolerance, but I know what you mean. If I absolutely had to do it I would turn up a small holding block that the shim sits flush in and lap it on a stone.

Have you checked the shim sizes you have? You might be able to swap some about and only buy a few.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

spoil the ship for a ha'penny worth of tar...

these things are really cheap ...

and your bodge would do jizzbunny / Bodywank proud...
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're 30mm diameter, 3 are 3.8mm and one 3.5mm. Awkward size, can't seem to source any and the only places I can find that stock them model specific only go up to 3.1mm.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you're not far from Malton you could try John at JW Motorcycles. If he doesn't have shims he might suggest where to get them.

Otherwise, a lick on a surface grinder would do the job. Local engineering firm?
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be worth a pootle up to see him, they're the UK distributor for Rapid Bike Racing modules which I rather fancied as an alternative to the PCV I have fitted.

I'll put a shout on the Aprilia forums, see if anyone knows a source or has swaps.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADSrox0r wrote:
They're 30mm diameter, 3 are 3.8mm and one 3.5mm. Awkward size, can't seem to source any and the only places I can find that stock them model specific only go up to 3.1mm.


probably cos the valves want re-seatin and much further would cause contact with piston.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 18:01 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wemoto sell shims,but at quite a price

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/aprilia/pegaso_650/95/picture/valve_shim_2.55_mm/

Luckily there are only four to sort out...or is it five?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thickest shim they list is 2.90mm though and he needs thicker.
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Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 18:29 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copycat73 wrote:
ADSrox0r wrote:
They're 30mm diameter, 3 are 3.8mm and one 3.5mm. Awkward size, can't seem to source any and the only places I can find that stock them model specific only go up to 3.1mm.


probably cos the valves want re-seatin and much further would cause contact with piston.


If the valves weren't fully seated then the clearances would have increased out of tolerance. The OP is after a reduction in shim thickness not an increase so re-seating the valves in the head would only exacerbate his current issue.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see what you're saying; the valve seats have built up over the years and bigger shims have been put in to compensate. Lapping the valve seats would put the valve stem higher (or back to original height) meaning a thinner shim, or more to the point a shim of the 'regular' sizes available would be needed.

Let's just say for shits I went balls deep and lapped the seats, and forgive the ignorance, how do you then determine what size shim is required once re-assembled?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't shims get tighter (i.e. you have to put thinner ones in) rather than looser as a rule?

If you relap the seats, then they will get tighter still, requiring an even thinner shim.
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Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 21:35 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADSrox0r wrote:
I see what you're saying; the valve seats have built up over the years and bigger shims have been put in to compensate. Lapping the valve seats would put the valve stem higher (or back to original height) meaning a thinner shim, or more to the point a shim of the 'regular' sizes available would be needed.

Let's just say for shits I went balls deep and lapped the seats, and forgive the ignorance, how do you then determine what size shim is required once re-assembled?


Not sure if this was aimed at me but if so I think you may have misunderstood. I was pointing out why 're-seating' the valves couldn't possibly solve your current issue. I was not saying that poorly seated valves are a likely cause as I don't know what thickness shims are normal for your engine.

As to how to determine what size shim is required post lapping... You would measure your valve clearances in exactly the same way as you have presumably done so (in order to determine that they are incorrect). You may of course find that your current shims give you a clearance of less than 0. In that case you would either need to assemble with no shims or ideally with a set of shims that you know are thinner that you are likely to require. These needn't be hardened of course as you'd only be using them to allow you to calculate your final shim size. This kind of job is always a faff as a one-off.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 06 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If his clearance is less than 0 shims are the least of his problems. He'd be looking at burned valves etc.
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Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 00:45 - 07 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
If his clearance is less than 0 shims are the least of his problems. He'd be looking at burned valves etc.


Not really. As it wouldn't have been running in that state.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 04:38 - 07 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

An engine HAS to be running for a valve to get burnt. They don't pop like a fuse.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 04:59 - 07 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Pete, what he means is that after lapping the valve seats if I were to put my current shims back in it would be likely that they would be too thick to give any clearance to be able to determine...well, clearance. A thinner set of shims would need to go in before you would be able to measure anything at all. For those purposes I guess I would just lap the shit out of the existing ones to get them down to be able to measure, then order a set once the clearance is known and bin the temporary lapped ones.

Sounds like a fuckload of effort for an old machine though.

I'm tempted to just lap the existing ones, get her running and sell it on and move on to the next project. Parts and wotnot have been a royal pain in the arse for the Pegaso.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:08 - 07 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah right yes I got the wrong end of the stick.

What you should do before pulling the head and doing valve work is a leak-down test. If that gives a good result just do the shims and crack on.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 05:25 - 07 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little internet-fu reveals that Aprilia lists shims up to 4mm, the range being between 3-4mm so I think this is indicative of mine being 'normal' rather than original suspicions of 'bodged in bigger uns'. https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5692864/pegaso-650-pegaso-650-pegaso-650-1992-1996-pegaso-650-all/valves-t

Typically though, I still can't get hold of any in stock unless I order from out of the country and pay exorbitant delivery fees.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 06:23 - 07 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

As an aside for musing; would it be reasonable to say that a leak down test would be a useful indication of timing being off if you'd fluffed the cams on re-assembly? The given being of course you'd tested it at known tdc beforehand and no appreciable loss was present.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:30 - 07 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, leak down is only done with both valves shut.
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