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1984 v30 magna carb idle issue , i need help please

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Magnaman
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Joined: 22 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 22 Dec 2018    Post subject: 1984 v30 magna carb idle issue , i need help please Reply with quote

what would cause idle to be 4500 on v30 magna? i got some carbs
off ebay, cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner, installed new low jets, could see thru main jets and tubes, ive cleaned every hole i could find, with carb cleaner, i put carbs back on, bike starts up first or second time turning over,. but it goes strait to 4500 rpm. ive tried lowering rpm with idle knob ( between #2 and #4 carb but turning it doesnt have an effect on the idle, whats up with this think now? thanks,
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 22 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

At 4500 rpm all the chokes could be on or the vacuum operated main jet needles are lifting or not seating. Call a plumber.
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.Chris.
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 22 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you haven't got any air leaks. What sort of condition are the carb rubbers in?
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 08:17 - 23 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be an obvious question but are the cables adjusted correctly?
Are the outer sleeves of the cables sitting in their respective seats?
Are the cables routed along the correct route?
Those cables might be pulling the throttle body up.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 23 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the things in the thread so far are worth looking at.

If you rev it, do the revs drop back down to 4500 quickly or slowly?

If they drop down quickly, then it sounds like the choke is stuck on.
If they drop down slowly, then I would be looking for air leak.

Of course, if the cable routing is putting tension on the cables, then it could be pulling on the throttle and/or the choke.

You also didn't mention the mixture screws in your original post, I assume these have been set to whatever the factory setting is. Maybe an extra half turn out, seeing as older bikes tend to like that.
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Magnaman
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 23 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys for all those possibilities.
ive checked cables,
i have even loosened cables up and checked to make sure they wasnt hangin up... i assume they are routed right, ..ive never honestly ever seen a diagram of how theyre suppose to be routed, other than the way they are routed. ive had the carbs rebuilt back in 2010 , theyve worked fine the way ive hadem routed since then. but i will double check the routing.

2) Yes Robby, the screws are 2 1/2 turns out

3) i did not rev the motor, as its only spose to idle at about 1200, i started it and when it went to 4500 rpms i shut it off.so not to damage the motor or overheat it. . ..since the black idle screw wouldnt let idle back off any

4) .. now one thing i DID notice when i was cleaning these carbs is one of the diaphrams was slower to drop then the rest of them when i raised them with my finger.
id hafta look at them again to see which 1

is it possible the outside of the vacuum slides need cleaned ?
i wiped them off when inchecked diaphrams for holes but i did see any pblm with rubber on diaphrams but i didnt know what to do about the slides. other then wipem off.

well im gonna take them off one more time but if i cant see whats wrong then i am about ready to just find someone i can afford, who wont gouge me too much and just sendem off an letem clean them professionally an go over them and make sure everythings set right so when i getem back they ll just be boltngo Smile thatd be nice..thats where i gotem rebuilt before was a guy named keenan out in california and they was actually called boltngo
wish i could locate him again....
thanks e1 for your input. an Merry Christmas!!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 23 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I presume you put the airbox and filter back on over the stacks before trying it? Haven't tried it but I'd imagine it would run like a bag of shite without the airbox on.

But yes, I'd also be looking for air leaks, those V4 carb banks take a bit of force to clunk back in and a magna isn't exactly new so the rubbers wil be stiff.

So did they go back into place with a final, satisfying clunk? If not, they might not be seated in the stubs properly. I generally apply a light smear of red rubber grease to the inside of the inlet rubbers on my VFR750 to get the carbs back in properly.

Choke mechanism can also get sticky, make sure it's returning to off properly.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 01:22 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also are there any volatile additives in the fuel?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Stinkwheel says, stiff carb rubbers/poorly seated carbs is a good place to look. Getting V4 carbs mounted onto old carb rubbers is an absolute pain in the arse.

One of my jobs for the bike I'm restoring is getting the rubbers soft again, using a mix of wintergreen essential oil and alcohol. The internet says it works. You can temporarily soften them by letting them sit in hot water for a few minutes.

Another idea that has just struck me, while you're in the area. Have any of the blanking screws/caps for the carb balancing ports come off? That would give you an air leak with a high idle.
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.Chris.
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the carb rubbers are cracked or excessively hard, David Silver sells new ones for £10.68 apiece.
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1985 Kawasaki Z550F
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 24 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:

One of my jobs for the bike I'm restoring is getting the rubbers soft again, using a mix of wintergreen essential oil and alcohol. The internet says it works.


It does. Don't do it in the house (stinks the place out for days afterwards) and wear nitrile gloves because it can be absorbed through your skin and can have some nasty effects on your health.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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