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What chain to go for

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Travis Bickle This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

Skudd
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 25 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The most important bit is split link or rivet link.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 25 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Travis Bickle wrote:
Thanks. What's the difference / which is best?


One is frowned upon for anything up from a 125, the other has a thousand ways to hurt your thumb.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 25 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

o-ring chains on bikes with open chain.

Non-o-ring chains 'should' have a cover over them.

O-ring chains do not need a cover as they are more resistant to shite getting into their 'workings'.

125 split link would work but I prefer the feeling of security of a riveted pin masel. Cool
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P.
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 25 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

On what bike... because that is a fairly sizable change.

Edit - YBR125.... I wouldn't go 'up' on the rear of a YBR. you are going to starve the shit out of it and its top speed is going to plummet.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 25 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fairly standard O ring chain from Tsubaki for £62.11 is what you want.

Reason for wanting +4 on the rear sprocket?
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 25 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a 9bhp 125. Anything half decent. Pretty sure I has a RK Tsakago on mine when it was sold to the local training school. About £45 all in for front, rear, chain and locking tabs.

Just make sure you clean and lube it.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 26 Jan 2019    Post subject: chain Reply with quote

If its under a 250 ( so not that powerful then eh !!!! bike dependant ) wemoto do a swallow chain non o ring which are quite good, also they do good sprockets as well.

How wealthy are you ?
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G
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 26 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: What chain to go for Reply with quote

How about a cheap chain and spending the savings on a chain oiler?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 26 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

-1 on the front and +4 on the rear will be unrideable. The first gear will be useless, and the top gear will be the same as the gear below was, meaning you'll just have a bike that is slower than it started.
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G
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 26 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
-1 on the front and +4 on the rear will be unrideable. The first gear will be useless, and the top gear will be the same as the gear below was, meaning you'll just have a bike that is slower than it started.

That would give a reduction ration of 0.87.
If the bike was originally geared for 70mph and he can only hit 56mph, it shouldn't harm his top speed - the new theoretical top speed will be 61mph.
Potentially it may even increase it slightly, depending on the power curve etc - ie if previously 4th gear went up to 50mph and 5th gear up to 70mph as standard, then having a 4th go up 43 and snicking into a much lower 5th may be enough to make better use of the increased torque at the back wheel.
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garth
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 26 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a DID chain, don't fuck about.

My last DID o ring coupled with an oiler needed adjusting twice in three and a half months, or 13,000 miles, and half of that was off-road, loaded with camping gear.

It wore out a front sprocket before it needed adjusting.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 26 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

garth wrote:
Get a DID chain, don't fuck about.

My last DID o ring coupled with an oiler needed adjusting twice in three and a half months, or 13,000 miles, and half of that was off-road, loaded with camping gear.

It wore out a front sprocket before it needed adjusting.


Wow, that`s about 40,000 a year, also what bike and tyre lasted at least 13,000 miles ??????????????
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garth
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 26 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
garth wrote:
Get a DID chain, don't fuck about.

My last DID o ring coupled with an oiler needed adjusting twice in three and a half months, or 13,000 miles, and half of that was off-road, loaded with camping gear.

It wore out a front sprocket before it needed adjusting.


Wow, that`s about 40,000 a year, also what bike and tyre lasted at least 13,000 miles ??????????????


4PT XT600E, mefo explorer lasted 8.5k, changed to a kenda after that I think.
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G
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 27 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Travis Bickle wrote:
Reduction would be 0.83 not 0.87 so new theoretical top speed of 58.1mph but yeah I agree with your maths! Thanks I hadn't considered working it out that way

(13/48)/(14/45)=0.87
Oops, I'd done -1/+3, with -1/+4...
(13/49)/(14/45)=0.85
14/45 was what came up as the standard sizes when I searched for YBR125 sprockets.
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 27 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

on a 125 4t I'd say stick with a 428 and non O ring. Bigger chain= more power loss and O ring chain also means another 0.5HP gone!
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 06:37 - 28 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Travis Bickle wrote:
Oh really?! Ok that's interesting I hadn't considered that. Thank you. Didn't realise the O ring ones were heavier.


The O rings fit between the outer plates and the inners and are not totally squashed. That means longer inner pins to hold it all together. Extra length equals extra weight.
The 0.5 HP loss reminds me of V belts and pulleys - some serious losses with V belts on engines.
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