Chain Breaker/Riveter

[LustyLew]

Hi all,

My chain on the CB500x has too many tight spots for my liking, so it's coming off for new.

Opinions on split link chains are 50/50, so looking to get a rivet link and just bite the bullet and the get splitting/riveting kit.

Any recommendations on which kit to get?

Budget isn't particularly huge.

I've seen Draper, Sealey and BikeIt's offerings. They all look the same. Probably the only difference is the quality control. But they look very straightforward to use.

Ideas?

[ThatDippyTwat]

Cheap DID tool clone, but with a genuine DID pin. Both available online. Works, lasts, cheaper than a full DID tool.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[Hong Kong Phooey]

Don't bother pushing the pin, a hacksaw goes through the chain nae bother.

I bought a cheap clone and the ball bearing end was knackered after one chain.
Now I just borrow one from a mate, not sure which his is though.

To make life easy, do the rivet at the back sprocket rather than struggling at the middle of the free chain run like wot I did once.
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'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8

[Confusion]

[Nobby the Bastard]

You only need to flare it enough that the plate cannot pull off. The flaring doesn't add any additional strength.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[kgm]

If you have a set of calipers or micrometer you can be fancy and measure the width of the flare and plates to ensure its as specified by the manufacturer.

As for rivetting tools the whale is the best but expensive. I've used a DiD clone which did the job absolutely fine with some care taken. I've also used one of the other generic type ones with shitty pins. They work as long as you go slowly, I found the best way to avoid breaking pins is to add a little pressure and back it off slightly before adding more pressure. Add too much at once and the pins just break.

I've also read the AFAM ones are decent.

Just take a Dremel or grinder to the old chain. If you need to split some links off of the new chain either buy a decent splitter or use the backing off method above.

[Pigeon]

Try and get the [ style, rather than the 2 halves you have to keep joining /re-joining.

Because you make so many 1/4 -1/2 turn adjustments to get the correct plate width and flare.

I've used this very cheap one as well as this slightly more expensive Bergen one

The £12 tool did 2 chains and i then bent a pin. But it was probably my miss-use to be fair.

The Bergen one (£20), the pins seem slightly better perhaps.

Ultimately though, was happy to use the £12 set. If it only last 2-3 chains, not a massive expense given the cost of the chain and the mileage in between changes.

Get a cheap chinese digital micrometer too.

EDIT: I ground down pins as per peoples recommendations. Wouldn't want to press a pin out without having done so.

EDIT2: I meant a Vernier Caliper, not micrometer
As per Islanders post.

[Islander]

I have the Draper tool and it's fine for occasional use which is all the majority of riders need anyway.

Cut through the chain or grind the heads off of the rivets on the master link as advised and take things slowly when you rivet the new one - it's better to slightly underdo things rather than overdo them. You'll feel the head deform as you tighten the tool and that's the time to stop and check.

A vernier caliper is far more useful than a micrometer for general use and is the preferred tool for measuring rivet head diameter anyway.

[sickpup]

[Fisty]

[LustyLew]

Hi all,

Thanks for the advice...

In the end, a mate came round with one of the Sealey riveters... Yes, it bent!

Luckily we managed to get the chain on and it seems secure.

I will save up for a DID one I think!

[Pete.]

I always rivet the solid pins with 2 hammers. I use a digital caliper to measure the spread to be sure it won't pull out.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good