kawasaki er5 1999

stupot · L Plate Warrior Joined: 25 Jul 2019 Karma :

Has been standing for a while. I bought it and it ran fine for a few thousand miles . It was hard to start on damp mornings, would run on one cylinder for a few mins. Today it has begun to backfire when i open it up and the revs will not pick up intermittant. O.K. at low revs but in every gear it will not pick up cleanly and splutters. I am thinking diry carbs jets or sticking points.
I am not to experienced in mechs so bow to superior knowledge and ask for what do you think. Thanks, S.

jaffa90 · World Chat Champion Joined: 06 Apr 2016 Karma :

I would check the fuel flow from the vacuum fuel tap to the carb, if ok then service the cv carbs (i suspect the carb diaphragms). After that try and fit an inline fuel filter just in case the tank is rotten.

If you think ignition leads then check for visible external sparks in the dark.

stupot · L Plate Warrior Joined: 25 Jul 2019 Karma :

I put my bike in Kawasaki for a sprocket and chain re: It was ONLY when I got it back that I found the problems? I now suspect some bad workmanshipp. I had a closer look and it looks as though the screw to the right hand side panel has been moved. So now I am trying to find out about the simpler ,,,, air and fuel screw adjustment. I undrstand the fuel but not about the air. Got a good start and tickover but when it opens up it backfires. could b short of air?
Their r a number of very unproffessional proffessionals around Huh!

jaffa90 · World Chat Champion Joined: 06 Apr 2016 Karma :

If you suspect foul play like something put in the tank then as my first post.
The fuel air screw is for low revs.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

There is a high chance the needle valves are badly corroded and are sticking in their seats due to ethanol corrosion. Seen it on other EX500 derived bikes. The solution is to replace them with modern, viton tipped ones which are ethanol proof.

Check your airbox isn't full of fuel, the last one I saw was and there was convincing meltiness suggesting it had been on fire with me riding it. Presumably put itself out again.

Do not fiddle with the fuel air screw. I 100% garauntee this is not your problem unless someone else has moved them. And I'd suspect on a '99 bike that's been sitting for a while, that would be too much like hard work, the heads of them probnably shear/burr the instant you tried to move them.

EDIT: also check the main power connection from the main fuse. It's a big fat, (usually white) wire running from the 30A fuse holder to the ignition switch. It's located on top of the starter solenoid. Follow the big fat wire from the battery positive to find the starter solenoid. On top of it is a red cap covering the 30A fuse with wires coming out of it. Take the top off, inspect the fuse and terminals for green powdery corrosion and wiggle the wires going into it. Do not be surprised if one comes off in your hand.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

stupot · L Plate Warrior Joined: 25 Jul 2019 Karma :

This is top of my list here before I get sidetracked. The Fellah that I spoke to prior to me putting it into the shop, definately sucked me in. He did this by talking me out of doing the job myself(sprockets chain replacement) "Are you sure that you will get the sprocket off. You need a special tool to rivet it in, ect". Then as soon as I got it back the problems wee there. I have ridden it for three thousand trouble free miles before giving it to the shop.
I suspect something to do with the Carb setup because the tickover is higher than when I put it in?
On reconsideration of the conversation we had before the work, A lot of unecessary things were said. In short. It stinks of a Set-up.
The bike goes but on opening up it will splutter but picks up on opening. I reckon that it is only one cylinder which is playing up?
The other seems to b doing all the work. Is there an Air screw on it please?

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

sickpup · Old Timer Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :

stupot · L Plate Warrior Joined: 25 Jul 2019 Karma :

that the air filter had been purposefully blocked. Plugs were running rich. Air filter blocked ect ect. Its running fine now.
Next.
The Front Brake. I have had this attended to numerous times at lots of cost. Anyway, the complete seals were replaced (by an ameteur it seems) Did not work right from the first day back. Now, in the morning it needs to be pumped up from touching the Handlebar. Pressure builds and its o.k. until I leave it to settle and again , back to the Bars. Pumps up again.
Interested to know what you think?

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Was the master cylinder rebuilt too or just the calliper seals?

If it's losing pressure without moving, there is a leak. If fluid isn't coming out, it's leaking back into the master cylinder.

If you're having to pump the lever after having moved the bike, it's more likely you have a warped rotor.

Out of interest, what was the air filter blocked with?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.