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| Dan Man |
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 Dan Man L Plate Warrior
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| Monkeywrenche... |
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 Monkeywrenche... Nearly there...
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| Dan Man |
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 Dan Man L Plate Warrior
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| Dan Man |
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 Dan Man L Plate Warrior
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| doggone |
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 doggone World Chat Champion

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| Dan Man |
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 Dan Man L Plate Warrior
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| MCN |
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 MCN Super Spammer

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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:39 - 29 Jul 2019 Post subject: |
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2006 will be an electra-X yes?
In answer to your question. Yes it can be normal to burn that much, especially if it's being ridden reasonably hard.
It's also probably less of a problem than you'd think.
Pretty sure you normally check them with the engine off and cold.
MCN. Bullets do have a seperate oil tank but it's integrated into the engine with internal oilways. All the scavenge goes to the top end then runs down under gravity. They CAN wet-sump but only when not running. You'd usually get a load of blue smoke on startup if it was and the thing to do is leave it to clear before moving away. The scavenge pump is man enough to shift it. Solution to them wet sumping is to park them on compression. If the crankpin is UP, it's higher than the oil level. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| Dan Man |
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 Dan Man L Plate Warrior
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| ThunderGuts |
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 ThunderGuts World Chat Champion

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| doggone |
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 doggone World Chat Champion

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| The Shaggy D.A. |
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 The Shaggy D.A. Super Spammer

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| MCN |
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 MCN Super Spammer

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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:53 - 30 Jul 2019 Post subject: |
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If it's a standard pre-unit 500 then I'd consider than much oil withing the range of normal useage.
Also yes, check level on the mainstand with the engine cool. The level in the timing chest will be artificially high and a lot will be hanging about in the rocker area if you check after running it. There is a 6mm hole for the oil to run back into the tank through.
Couple of things worth knowing.
One is that they have no valve stem oil seals so the can and will burn oil on the overrun, especially if ridden hard.
The level of oil on the dipstick is generally accepted to be rather on the high side. Some bikes will "settle" with the oil towards the bottom of the dipstick but will rapidly burn off anything over that level.
It's a dry-sump engine so oil LEVEL isn't as critical as on wet sump bikes. There needs to be enough oil to cover the feed pump pickup. most of the oil volume is to keep enough circulating to keep it cool so dropping off the bottom of the dipstick isn't the end of the world.
There IS an issue with them though. Standard 500 pistons are well known for being made of melted down rupees mixed with elephant dung (or a material with similar physical properties). They are then half sawn-through behind the oil control ring lands before being fitted. If you sit at 55mph all the time, this is fine. If you push it to a 65-70mph cruising speed, the crown of the piston will start to collapse front and back after a few thousand miles.
Early symptoms of piston collapse are a slight loss of power and compression. Later signs are an increase in oil consumption as the oil control ring gets pinched and a more serious loss of power and compression. Late symptoms are an abrupt seizure and the piston being ripped in half round the level of the oil control ring and (if you're unlucky) a conrod appearing through the front of the barrel.
Solutions include taking it easy, changing the piston regularly as a service item or blowing your wad on a forged accralite piston, an American made high compression piston or (if you can find one) an original NOS Reddich one (heppolite).
Or go mad and get a 535 piston and barrel. Or go utter full retard and do a 612 conversion for more than double what the whole bike cost you.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BrmVosfKRUVzWwVNqiwNrXl6DR67WKqhRVMN1_Z2A6a6l00TFBG5LK-vnQQjpO74RXoMBtgNt5v6usiNnWzQcc0K4nsqcRHiHc3cMpzzVQ9J6II5CtGvNSFcxy4KKmvd8aT6-tQIkQ=w960-h720-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| Dan Man |
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 Dan Man L Plate Warrior
Joined: 29 Jul 2019 Karma :  
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 Posted: 21:53 - 30 Jul 2019 Post subject: |
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| stinkwheel wrote: | If it's a standard pre-unit 500 then I'd consider than much oil withing the range of normal useage.
Also yes, check level on the mainstand with the engine cool. The level in the timing chest will be artificially high and a lot will be hanging about in the rocker area if you check after running it. There is a 6mm hole for the oil to run back into the tank through.
Couple of things worth knowing.
One is that they have no valve stem oil seals so the can and will burn oil on the overrun, especially if ridden hard.
The level of oil on the dipstick is generally accepted to be rather on the high side. Some bikes will "settle" with the oil towards the bottom of the dipstick but will rapidly burn off anything over that level.
It's a dry-sump engine so oil LEVEL isn't as critical as on wet sump bikes. There needs to be enough oil to cover the feed pump pickup. most of the oil volume is to keep enough circulating to keep it cool so dropping off the bottom of the dipstick isn't the end of the world.
There IS an issue with them though. Standard 500 pistons are well known for being made of melted down rupees mixed with elephant dung (or a material with similar physical properties). They are then half sawn-through behind the oil control ring lands before being fitted. If you sit at 55mph all the time, this is fine. If you push it to a 65-70mph cruising speed, the crown of the piston will start to collapse front and back after a few thousand miles.
Early symptoms of piston collapse are a slight loss of power and compression. Later signs are an increase in oil consumption as the oil control ring gets pinched and a more serious loss of power and compression. Late symptoms are an abrupt seizure and the piston being ripped in half round the level of the oil control ring and (if you're unlucky) a conrod appearing through the front of the barrel.
Solutions include taking it easy, changing the piston regularly as a service item or blowing your wad on a forged accralite piston, an American made high compression piston or (if you can find one) an original NOS Reddich one (heppolite).
Or go mad and get a 535 piston and barrel. Or go utter full retard and do a 612 conversion for more than double what the whole bike cost you.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BrmVosfKRUVzWwVNqiwNrXl6DR67WKqhRVMN1_Z2A6a6l00TFBG5LK-vnQQjpO74RXoMBtgNt5v6usiNnWzQcc0K4nsqcRHiHc3cMpzzVQ9J6II5CtGvNSFcxy4KKmvd8aT6-tQIkQ=w960-h720-no |
Thanks that's very helpful .. |
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| Dan Man |
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 Dan Man L Plate Warrior
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| ThunderGuts |
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 ThunderGuts World Chat Champion

Joined: 13 Nov 2018 Karma :    
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 169 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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