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The ZX-7R is misbehaving already! Start damn you, start!!!

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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: The ZX-7R is misbehaving already! Start damn you, start!!! Reply with quote

Went for a lovely spin on the bike, just shy of 90 miles in all with a mix of straight line A road speed and some twisty B road action, and it was faultless bar the rider making n00bish mistakes on a few corners Brick Wall

I did have some severe deja vu as when in the middle of nowhere the bike refused to start after I stopped to have a little walk about Mad

The bike is a little fiddly sometimes to start with a combination of the clutch and side stand switch, but the engine turns freely and sounds strong, there is just a delay in the vroom and start Eh?

After a dozen or so attempts, I checked the fuses and petrol, I could hear sloshing but turned the tap to reserve just in case. Still nothing, but just as I was about to break out the mobile for some road side assistance, the bike turned and caught.

So off I go to fill up with some more jungle juice, went off to pay and again refused to start first time!

Even being a little down hearted, I still decided to randomly ride with no sense of purpose other than because I wanted to and to charge any deficit in the battery.

Just down the road from me is a bike garage so popped in to ask how much for a basic 'pre winter' service as its just too much like hard and messy work to dismantle half the bike to change the oil filter, and again the bike refused to start for 3 or 4 times?

The engine sounds strong but it seems to hate starting when warm?
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Cigaro
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it an automatic choke?

Sounds like that could be at fault, at a wildly uninformed guess.
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheBassJunky wrote:
Is it an automatic choke?

Sounds like that could be at fault, at a wildly uninformed guess.


Nope, manual choke.

Does have a whiff of fuel / air mixture problem maybe, or even a didgy plug / HT lead.

Saying that, I have just changed a fuse for the horn and to test it the bike had to be started. 3 or 4 times first press of the button, but the bike has been standing for 90 minutes or so, so cold.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

welcome again to the wonderful world of kawafuckensaki Very Happy
i had a spot of bother with mine as well, it turned out to be a dodgy lead at the coil end, just one dodgy ht lead will stop 2 cylinders from firing, and it was only when the bike was hot Very Happy
try that Thumbs Up
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 18:11 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:
welcome again to the wonderful world of kawafuckensaki Very Happy


Its like a fly in a nice glass of Chardonnay, its the small things that spoil something so good.

Is it trial and error, or is there a way of testing them?
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

your best bet is take the tank off un screw the ht leads 1 at a time cut about 1cm from the end of each cable and push them back into the coil and tighten,
do it to both ends, or buy some new ht cable its about £5 a meter and you will need 2 meters. https://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=501838 (£3 a meter)
if by some slim chance you have silicone leads, then rip them out and replace with copper leads, siliocone breaks down quite quickly,
and we all know that copper is the best conductor of electricity,(with the exception of silver)
have fun Very Happy
may as well chuck in some fresh pugs while you at it Very Happy
hopefully you still have you stupidly skinny sparkplug socket Very Happy
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Faldo
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry Whosthedaddy, mine starts first time every time, but while the Kwakheads are looking I've got a quick question if i may:

Mine is never happy at 20-30MPH for more than 5 mins. The temp needle is quickly buried into the red. I've never heard the fan cut in once.

So my bike went in for a clutch / service today and I mentioned it to them and asked them to find out if there was a problem. They rung me up and said they couldn't find anything wrong. The guy told me that most Kwaks have to be virtually at boiling point before the fan kicks in, and says that he regularly used to see GPZs etc with modified manual fan switches. Think this is the way I'm going to go, any hints on the best way to do this and if this is a common problem?

Sorry Whosthedaddy for the hijack but hopefully an answer will be beneficial to us all. Hope you get your starting problems sorted out, I know how annoying it is! Praying
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol, that is a super common problem, my fan doesnt cut in until 102'c and by that time its far too hot to cool it back down,
i have just disconnected the wire from the fan switch(bottom left of rad as you sit on bike)
lifted the tank, pulled the wiring back up, and out through the same hole as the wiring for the handle bars, and then connected it directly to a small switch,
i did have it wired in parallel, at first, but i always have my eye on the temp gauge, so in the end it was pointless.
best mod ever for a hot quaker Thumbs Up
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Faldo
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers hmmmnz, glad it's not just mine then! Cool

I'll get my bike back tomorrow so now I'll have a little project to do if I'm bored at work! Very Happy

TBH, it's not often I ride at 20-30mph so although I knew the problem was there I did sweet FA about it, but I joined in a massive procession type ride through my home town with over 1000 bikers and I had to keep finding a space to accelerate hard to 60 ish and brake hard just try and cool the damn thing down. I looked like a right nobhead! Mr. Green I gave up in the end and had to find a dual carrigeway quick and cane it! Oh well! Laughing
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah they are bastards like that, i can't even get into town in peak hour traffic with out it getting hot,
with the fan on it'll stay at a constant temp, Thumbs Up
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:
lol, that is a super common problem, my fan doesnt cut in until 102'c and by that time its far too hot to cool it back down,
i have just disconnected the wire from the fan switch(bottom left of rad as you sit on bike)
lifted the tank, pulled the wiring back up, and out through the same hole as the wiring for the handle bars, and then connected it directly to a small switch,
i did have it wired in parallel, at first, but i always have my eye on the temp gauge, so in the end it was pointless.
best mod ever for a hot quaker Thumbs Up


Its a common topic over on the FZR forum as well.

Like you the simplest option is to bypass the original connections to a switch on the tank or bars and just flick it on when in traffic.

Its all summation here, but I think that my fans are on all the time, there seems to be an 'induction of air' noise from the front?

The temperature gauge was constantly just above the bottom red that is until I was at some lights for an age or in 2nd revving and trying to get my knee down and then it'd start to creep up, a quick blast down an A road soon cools thing down again.

hmmmnz wrote:
your best bet is take the tank off ...may as well chuck in some fresh pugs while you at it Very Happy
hopefully you still have you stupidly skinny sparkplug socket Very Happy


Yep, aint they a pain in the ass to get at Mad

I remember trying to attempt to look and change the ZXR's spark plugs. You have to dismantle half the body work and seats* just to get at the screws for the tank, then move the tank and slide out of the way only to find that the spark plug socket was too damn big Rolling Eyes

Hope it is something nice and simple as new HT leads as it is a cracking machine and I don't want to have the 'will it start or wont it' in the back of my mind.

I'll try and give it a go Thumbs Up





*Of course I might as well start the cleaning process, another reason why I don't want to do it, I hate washing the car and thats big enough. A bike is damn fiddly!!
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bugsy46
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the bike is running fine with no mishaps when riding then I would knock the HT leads on the head right away. If the ignition sytem cant cope with turning a bike over then its common sense that the bike isnt going to run well or at all under load. I would check things that would lead to poor starting in hot conditions. These would be fuel mixtures first off, checking that the choke is DEFINATLY returning. Also check for dirty wiring around the starter system ie clutch, sidestand
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugsy46 wrote:
Also check for dirty wiring around the starter system ie clutch, sidestand


Damn cleaning!!!

When out and about its fine, its when you stop and turn the key then try to start again is a Praying, or first thing when the bike has been on its side.

There is plenty of gunk around the side stand switch, and with the seller telling me its a little hit and miss sometimes.

How does the side stand switch stop the bike from starting, I thought that it just cut out if 1st was engaged?

I haven't had the chance to give it the once over, but should have some time to in the next day or so, be able to give all cables a good lubing and the like.
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bugsy46
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats right, the starter system can also prevent the bike from starting if there is a break in the loom etc as they are usually all linked. The fuelling though would be my first port of call and the wiring a last resort
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 17 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

in my case it was the ht leads, and had the exact symptoms he described, it may not be his cause, but i think for the sake of £6 and a half hour of time its worth the small effort,

a sure fire way to see if your fans are on is get a bit of a4 paper and while the bike is on, slap it on the front of the rad, if the paper sucks to the rad, then fan is sucking, Very Happy
under fast riding the zx shouldn't get much above 3/4 (75'c)
and really should sit somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4

let us know how you get on Mr. Green Thumbs Up
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Marah
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 18 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yellowninja - My fan kicks in when the temp gets half way on the dial, no where near the red. It still gets really hot though on my commute to the city centre (I know not the best commuter) but never in the red and I can do a good 20-30mins 20-30mph speeds.

WTD - I had a problem with the 'on position' on my fuel tank which caused my bike sometimes not to start and run a bit rough I now leave it on reserve all the time no problems Thumbs Up Need to be careful though Very Happy Halfords sell a long plug tool thats a bit of a squeeze but it does fit.
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bish777
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 18 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whosthedaddy wrote:


Like you the simplest option is to bypass the original connections to a switch on the tank or bars and just flick it on when in traffic.



Aye did this to my GPz 750.

Id either renew your HT leads and caps or just fit a set of Dyna coils and leads.

You may also have summat worn and leaky in your carbies, perhaps you have a leaky float valve, this can make the bike a pig to start.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 12:18 - 18 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it could well be easier than everyone else here thinks.

Check the clearances on the inlet valves.
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 18 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore all of the above.

The problem is with the vent from your fuel tank. Its blocked!

I've seen this soooo many time on the 7, and lots of others have had it too.

If it starts on the button first thing in the morning, but not when hot, even if left for just a couple of minutes, then its the fuel tank vent.

Also, if the spark plugs have not been changed for a while, change them.

The side stand switch was faulty, it would still start.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 01:31 - 19 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barry_MC21 wrote:


The problem is with the vent from your fuel tank. Its blocked!



Why does it only affect the bike when its warm and you are trying to start it and not when running?
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 19 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has nothing to do with being warm or cold, its to do with the pressure in the tank. When the breather hose is blocked, the tank cannot release the build up of pressure fast enough. And the more pressure there is in the tank, the harder it is for fuel to flow out along the fuel line.

It might help if you reliease pressure by opening the fuel cap to release the pressure, but you need to do this before you kill the engine, or you'll still just get the same problem.

I've seen this loads of times on 7r's and this has been the fix in the majority of cases.

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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 19 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barry_MC21 wrote:


It has nothing to do with being warm or cold, its to do with the pressure in the tank. When the breather hose is blocked, the tank cannot release the build up of pressure fast enough. And the more pressure there is in the tank, the harder it is for fuel to flow out along the fuel line.



Yes I know all of that it just doesn't explain why it only affects start up does it?
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 11:42 - 19 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your right, it doesn't. And I dont know either. But thats always been the fix of the problem in the past, clear out the blockage in the vent.

I had exactly the same problem with my 7. Stop for petrol after even just 5 miles, come back out and try to start after just a couple of minutes and it wouldnt' have it at all. The reason it ok after leaving it for long periods is that the tank will eventually release the pressure build up via the cap, or slowly past the blocked (or partially) pipe.
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Faldo
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 19 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right then, I'm trying to add a switch to my 7R for the cooling fan as mentioned above.

I've taken the two wires that go on to a sensor on the radiator (On the left as sitting on bike) and joined them.

The fan should come on now right with ignition / engine on ?
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 19 Sep 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

yellowninja wrote:
Right then, I'm trying to add a switch to my 7R for the cooling fan as mentioned above.


Why in gods name would you want to do that? Confused

Those two wires are live at all time's, ign on or off. If the fan doesn't come on when they are shorted together, then your fan is f**ked!

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