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Opinions on "fixing" pitted chrome

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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 04 Nov 2019    Post subject: Opinions on "fixing" pitted chrome Reply with quote

This is one of those topics I'm starting to hit information overload...

There's the old coke/vinegar + tin foil trick, a succession of finer abrasives + polishing, rust converters (which I would think were more useful for rusty steel than chrome plate) and some "magic stuff" like Quick Glo (a combination of abrasive, polish and wax - all in one - what could possibly go wrong?!)

Any other techniques I may have missed?

After that, what are people's opinions on maintenance: keep polishing or a coat of lacquer? The latter seems like a low maintenance option but when lacquer starts to go it looks bleedin' awful.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 04 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Money

Just spend lots of dosh and it will look fab
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 04 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are delaying the inevitable.

You could bodge with araldite and sanding it down smooth. Rolling Eyes


The stanchion needs rechroming and it's time con$uming work.

Start a fork fund now. Thumbs Up
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 04 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get it re-chromed...
Nah - honestly are you going for a mint look or everyday canny looking bike?
Long ago in the olden days (turning into Tef..) I would just keep on top of the rust spots with tin foil. It just means more in depth cleaning so to speak but it's easily done.
Another is get the rust out and bleb some oil onto those exposed steel parts (in moderation!) though what will happen is dust will stick to all of that and make it look worse.
How about plastidip on the rims? Paint? 'Galvy spray'?
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 04 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this cosmetic stuff or fork stantions?

If the pitting is through the chrome plating you are always going to get rust coming through the pit. That means you have to keep on top of it but the real problem is if the rust gets under the chrome plating, then it's only a matter of time before it comes off in flakes. Then it's time to get it re-chromed.

I haven't had a bike with much chrome on it for donkeys years. Back then it was Solvol Autosol and elbow grease.

I have no idea what fancy concoctions are available nowadays though.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 04 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pitted chrome is pitted chrome, stop putting off the inevitable and get the parts re-chromed.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 04 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
If the pitting is through the chrome plating you are always going to get rust coming through the pit.

Yep, mine were rubbed down twice over a few years and didn't look too bad but eventually the tiny pits were enough to let oil past. I had the stanchions rechromed (£175/pair) but still got through several fork seals and a bush set before the MOT guy declared that the chrome must be a fraction too thick. He dealt with it by fitting K-Teck fork seals which are apparently "a bit softer" than stock. He also had a local machine-shop sort out some damage on one stanchion where the lower bush sits. Total cure! Maybe I was unlucky but next time I'd try some aftermarket stanchions from Wemoto at around £130 each.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:21 - 05 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just the rims on the old DT, the forks are fine. The annoying thing is the front rim now looks brand new but the rear is just starting to go: odd patches of pitting here and there but so far no flaking.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 07:40 - 05 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paint/damage the better one to match the sh*t one?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 05 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sister Sledge wrote:
Paint/damage the better one to match the sh*t one?


Lol... that's definitely not an option I'd considered Smile I've got some 400/800/1200 grit papers, gonna try that first.

If I get the chrome looking reasonable does lacquer help keeping things from getting worse or just stick to regular polishing?
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A100man
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 05 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:


Lol... that's definitely not an option I'd considered Smile I've got some 400/800/1200 grit papers, gonna try that first.

If I get the chrome looking reasonable does lacquer help keeping things from getting worse or just stick to regular polishing?


Waste of time IMO - might as well just spray on ACF or equivalent during winter and polish/wax in summer.

OR

Earn your spurs and rebuild the wheel with stainless spokes and a new rim.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 05 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Waste of time IMO - might as well just spray on ACF or equivalent during winter and polish/wax in summer.


Aha! Good shout Smile Almost forgotten I have plenty of ACF50 kicking about Thumbs Up
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 05 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay so with just polishing I had this:

https://i.imgur.com/CR50m3W.jpg?1

And then I went over with a succession of fine abrasives + a final polish with ultra fine Scotch Brite:

https://i.imgur.com/T8UROZT.jpg?1

I *think* that's the same area but TBH it turned out better than expected Smile
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 00:29 - 06 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's an improvement. Thumbs Up

Now you have become a slave to maintaining that standard. Smile
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 06 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
That's an improvement. Thumbs Up

Now you have become a slave to maintaining that standard. Smile


Thankfully there's not too much chrome on the DT: headlamp glass surround, indicators, rims, clocks... all easy to get to for cleaning when it's rebuilt.

If one were doing such things on a regular basis it might be better to get a mega selection of Dremel polishing bits Smile
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