ER-6F Electrical Issue

Eki · Derestricted Danger Joined: 23 Nov 2019 Karma :

Hi everyone. I'm hopeful someone here can help me before I give in and take my bike to a garage and get charged an arm, leg and probably a kidney.

I recently replaced my headstock bearings/races on my ER6 (2006), it took a while because every time I ordered a tool I found out I needed another tool, then a tool that actually worked, but I got there in the end.

I've put my bike back together and now only the indicators/hazards work, no other electrical activity. The idiot lights come on and blink, the indicators come on and blink, but that is it, no other lights. Not even the clock on the dash works, nor the horn or plate lamp. (front+rear indicators work)

I've checked all the fuses, all are good.

I'm not really sure where to go from here, it seems obvious that I did something when I was changing the headstock bearings but I have no idea what nor no idea how to even start to find out where the break in the thing has occurred resulting in a complete lack of power, except in the indicators.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you.

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

Something has either become disconnected or wires broken.

Obviously look around the headstock to make sure you have routed the wires correctly after putting the front end back on but the first thing would be to check everything is connected properly.

Is it the F or N version?

https://www.classiccycles.org/media/DIR_1653304/DIR_1667004/40841264b60c8a9fffff84ecffffe41e.JPG
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

Eki · Derestricted Danger Joined: 23 Nov 2019 Karma :

F version. I have been looking at the wiring diagram in my Haynes and the only thing that seems to jump out at me is the key/ignition. If my memory is right, after On is Park, Park should allow the hazards to flash so you can have the hazard lights on when the key is removed. If I flip the key to Park though the indicators switch off/no hazard lights. Could it be that?

jaffa90 · World Chat Champion Joined: 06 Apr 2016 Karma :

Does the bike have any security / immobiliser device?
Also did you disconnect the battery before starting the work?
Can you post / attach your wiring diagram?

Eki · Derestricted Danger Joined: 23 Nov 2019 Karma :

The bike does not have security built in, as far as I know, this is the 2006 model too which I think doesn't have the thing built into the key, where you need to replace the CDI or something if you swap the key.

I did not disconnect the battery, I have however replaced the battery, it was the first thing I thought of.

As for posting the wiring, it's from the Haynes manual so there would be copyright issues so sadly I'm unable to post that, sorry.

Looking at the diagram, the grey wire goes from the signals into the signal/hazard, then around to the fuse box and then up to the ignition switch. It appears to be the only wire that uses the fuse #4. Fuse 1/2/5/6/7/8 all hook into the brown wire to ignition switch, fuse 3 is a white wire to the ignition and hooks into Parking.

I'm sorry if that isn't clear, but it's the best description I can manage.

Ste · Not Work Safe Joined: 01 Sep 2002 Karma :

There won't be any copyright issues from posting the wiring diagram. Thumbs Up

Eki · Derestricted Danger Joined: 23 Nov 2019 Karma :

There was one on this forum already, the link being:

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=3796680#3796680

It's black and white but does seem clear.

jaffa90 · World Chat Champion Joined: 06 Apr 2016 Karma :

"""I did not disconnect the battery, I have however replaced the battery, it was the first thing I thought of."""

Everybody learns by there mistakes including me.

The bike should have a live feed to the ignition switch (this is why you should disconnect the battery) and when switched on should give a live feed to the fuse box /fuses.

From what you say / state do you know an electrician that can help?

Eki · Derestricted Danger Joined: 23 Nov 2019 Karma :

I dont no, I guess it'll have to be taken to a garage. Thanks for all the feedback guys Smile

MCN · Super Spammer Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Karma :

I was all packed up, primus stove, pots, pans, 1 shot Moka pot, spare stove, torches, schlepping bag, renters, folding chair, folding water bottle, and wind-breaker (mitt poles).
I pushed the hoowur off the centre stand and leaned it on the side stand.
I noticed the lights went out.
I found the key was at the on position so turned it to ignition position and nothing...
Fuck... I was catching a bastirt ferry at 06:00 next day.
Checked battery connection good.
Started troubleshoot the harness.
After about 1/2 of panic mode I found that a multiplug had fell out the receptacle under the steering brace thing.
Pushed it back in and bingo. Normality restored.
I pulled the bastirt out again, put a blob of EvoStick on the side and plugged it back in.
It's been fine since then.

You need to check cm by cm cause you have fuctup somewhere in the assembly.
I'm sure you'll find it.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

sickpup · Old Timer Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :

jaffa90 · World Chat Champion Joined: 06 Apr 2016 Karma :

For safety reasons (sparks/arcing/shorts) when playing around with live wires and switches.
Also your reply has been mentioned.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

I'd suspect ignition switch. It makes two seperate connections in the on position. The old ER5s were notorious for them partially failing. So you could have engine and no lights, lights but no engine, starter but no ignition etc. etc.

Here's one for you to try. Does the "pass" button make the headlamp flash? It's on the "other" circuit to the actual headlamp along with the flashers and brake light. If this is the case, it's almost certainly either the switch itself or the wiring going to it. This would make sense because you either have had to disconnect it or leave the top yoke hanging off the wire to change those bearings.

You can sometimes get the switch back by squirting a load of WD40 in the switch and wiggling it about but they tend to fail again soon after.

Got a multimeter? With the ignition switch ON you should have continuity between the white and brown wires AND between the red and white on red wires at the ignition switch connector block. None between any other pair.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

sickpup · Old Timer Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :

Eki · Derestricted Danger Joined: 23 Nov 2019 Karma :

Quick update, my new ignition switch arrived today (technically a switch for a Ninja 250 because £20 instead of £200), put it in and it all works perfectly.

Conclusion (for anyone else that has this issue). It's either the ignition switch failing or the ignition switch not properly plugged into the harness (under the fuel tank).

Thanks for everyones help Smile