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Seized caliper

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Gazz
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Seized caliper Reply with quote

Bought a bike which I suspect had been sitting for a while. The brake lever was coming back and touching the handlebars. Managed to trace it back to the pistons not moving when the lever is pressed.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a quick fix for this even if it is just a temporary fix.

If you hold something between the other 2 pistons, the pressure forces the stuck one(s) out. Then when you push that one down another one pops up, etc but they don't appear to want to all move outwards at the same time. ( I hope I've described that better than I think I have).
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NJD
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for a rebuild.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds.like it needs.bleeding.
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cresad
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I've been going through a similar problem with my new bike , ended up sending them away to get them refurbished £ 55 a caliper , gives it shot blasted , repainted , new seals and new pistons. Can't get the parts and do it myself for that , found then on the #bay.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Sounds.like it needs.bleeding.


Tried that, I posted a thread on here a while back thinking that was the issue but there is definitely no air in the system.

Some also suggested changing the master cylinder which was also done.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

cresad wrote:
Hi

I've been going through a similar problem with my new bike , ended up sending them away to get them refurbished £ 55 a caliper , gives it shot blasted , repainted , new seals and new pistons. Can't get the parts and do it myself for that , found then on the #bay.


The caliper looks really good for the year (2005). I've had a look on ebay and they are wanting £165 (Sprint ST 1050) for a rebuild kit, that's why I was hoping to find an alternative to doing a rebuild just now.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Sounds.like it needs.bleeding.


Tried that, I posted a thread on here a while back thinking that was the issue but there is definitely no air in the system.

Some also suggested changing the master cylinder which was also done.


If the lever has full travel, or most of, then either there's air in the lines that's squashing, rather than the piston moving; there's no fluid in the lines, or the fluid is escaping...

If the brake was just a bit spongy, maybe you could use a quick-fix or bodge.. this sounds like something far more dire, and time for an overhaul.

I would start with a fluid-flush and bleed, make sure that there REALLY is no air in the lines. But cutting to the chase, I would likely pull the calipers and strip, expecting to renew both pistons and seals and bleed nipple(s), because when the pistons get old and manky and start sticking, its usually a sign that the surfaces have gone and they are dragging crap into the seals and chewing them up...

Your call, but I would say that you are probably way beyond and quick-fox bodgery here, and the things need a thorough going over... I mean, brakes DO tend to be pretty important at the end of the day..
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martin734
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMHO I never think it is a good idea to try quick or cheap fixes when it comes to brakes. If the brake calipers are seized then there is corrosion in there somewhere and that corrosion is not going to go away without stripping, cleaning and rebuilding the caliper. If you don't do a thorough job they will seize again or the seals will fail and you could well end up with brake fluid all over your discs and pads.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Seized caliper Reply with quote

Gazz wrote:
Bought a bike which I suspect had been sitting for a while. The brake lever was coming back and touching the handlebars. Managed to trace it back to the pistons not moving when the lever is pressed.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a quick fix for this even if it is just a temporary fix.

If you hold something between the other 2 pistons, the pressure forces the stuck one(s) out. Then when you push that one down another one pops up, etc but they don't appear to want to all move outwards at the same time. ( I hope I've described that better than I think I have).


I don't think you understand hydraulic systems as well as you think you do.
Brake fluid can't be compressed so if you can pull the lever back to the bar without all the pads moving then there is something compressable or in the case of brake hoses expanding.

Yes the calipers probably need cleaning but that isn't your problem, the pistons are a symptom of your problem which is the fluid isn't pushing them out for some other reason.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Seized caliper Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
I don't think you understand hydraulic systems as well as you think you do.
Brake fluid can't be compressed so if you can pull the lever back to the bar without all the pads moving then there is something compressable or in the case of brake hoses expanding.

Yes the calipers probably need cleaning but that isn't your problem, the pistons are a symptom of your problem which is the fluid isn't pushing them out for some other reason.


Yes, I had a picture of balloon animals in my mind...

Could the hoses be original? Shocked
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should have mentioned that the lever only comes back and touches the bar on the first press.

The previous owner had just fitted new discs and pads and it had blue fluid in the reservoir.

I first assumed that there was air in the system so I bled it. The problem was still there.

It was suggested a couple of times that it may have been a faulty master cylinder as they are a known fault on these bikes. I bought 2 by mistake fitted one and the same problem existed.

It was also recommended that I check for seized pistons. Checked them and they don't all move until they are manipulated.

I'll try and find a video of the lever.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are only 2 things it could really be, air in the system or duff master cylinder seals.

I'm leaning towards master cylinder seals as every vehicle I've had niggling brake problems with I've changed the master cylinder for a brand new one or done the seals and they have worked perfectly.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the pistons aren't moving, the lever should be soild.

If it isn't, there is a leaky seal or air in the system.

But hang on. What EXACTLY is happening? You say only on the first press? Does that mean it then firms up on subsequent presses? Does the brake engage then? What then, do you ride it a bit and it goes loose again? Because that can be a sign of warped rotors.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 15 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, sounds like pad knockback. Check runout on disc(s).
What bike? 2010 Sprint?

If you're rebuilding, due to sticking pistons then you might be able to salvage the pistons and just change the seals.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164015584664
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope this works :

https://vimeo.com/397859043

Its been like that since I bought the bike. Pervious owner said that he had just fitted new discs and pads and put new fluid in it (blue stuff) so he obviously knew that there was some sort of issue and tried to rectify it before reselling the bike on to me.

Without going into detail about the previous owner, (that's for another day to discuss) I'd just like to get the issue sorted so that I can finally use the bike.

Firstly I bled the brakes, thinking that was the issue, then bought and fitted new master cylinder (2 of) , rebled, exact same issue there.

Checked pistons, some of them don't move; but all move when you hold the one down that moves freely and pump the lever.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Yes, sounds like pad knockback. Check runout on disc(s).
What bike? 2010 Sprint?

If you're rebuilding, due to sticking pistons then you might be able to salvage the pistons and just change the seals.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164015584664


2005 with ABS.

I was hoping for something a little cheaper than the full kit at £165.

I'll wait and see if anyone can shine some light on the issue before attempting to remove them.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was out at the bike this morning for a bit.

Cleaned the pistons (didn't remove them completely just moved them out a bit) and the inside of the caliper.

As I may have mentioned before; The calipers are near spotless and so are the condition of the pistons by the looks of things. Bled the brakes again after I had finished and the problem still exists.

Brake lever only stiffens up on the second pull.

All pistons move just not in unison with each other when the lever is pressed. Don't know if this is normal or not.

Any other suggestions?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Yes, sounds like pad knockback. Check runout on disc(s).


Really??? How have you come to the conclusion the discs are warped when nothing has been mentioned to suggest they are and lots has been said to suggest it isn't that?


No, really??? How is this post abusive? Too many question marks?!
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Yes, sounds like pad knockback. Check runout on disc(s).


Really??? How have you come to the conclusion the discs are warped when nothing has been mentioned to suggest they are and lots has been said to suggest it isn't that?


First pull of the lever is ok, but after that the rotor is pushing the pads out so second pull requires longer lever throw, on an internet forum without sight of the bike, that sounds feasible no? Pad knockback doesn't necessarily have to be warped discs.

Also ABS bleeding is a bitch. There's a function in TuneECU to trigger an ABS bleed.

IIRC blue brake fluid was phased out/ banned a while back as its not DOT4.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at your video and the use of one finger with ease tells me the master cylinder seals are not sealing. Which has been mentioned.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
First pull of the lever is ok, but after that the rotor is pushing the pads out so second pull requires longer lever throw, on an internet forum without sight of the bike, that sounds feasible no? Pad knockback doesn't necessarily have to be warped discs.


No it isn't feasable. All discs suffer from uneven wear, you actually need it to a small degree to stop the pads binding on the disc but any uneven wear/warpage large enough to knock the piston back far enough to require more than one pull on the lever would be felt while riding.

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Also ABS bleeding is a bitch. There's a function in TuneECU to trigger an ABS bleed.


No it isn't, excusing Harleys which have a normally closed system as far as I am aware every other manufacturer uses a normally open system so bleeding should be no different to on a normal system.

The TuneECU setting is to flush the ABS pump.

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
IIRC blue brake fluid was phased out/ banned a while back as its not DOT4.


The blue brake fluid was banned in the USA at least because the blue colouring was carcinogenic but a quick google says it is still available here and is indeed DOT4 under the name ATE TYP200
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with sickpup on this. I've had a bike that had a distinct pulse when pulling the (non abs) brake due to the disk not being true but it was never spongy and the brake lever never even close to going back to the bars.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
First pull of the lever is ok, but after that the rotor is pushing the pads out so second pull requires longer lever throw, on an internet forum without sight of the bike, that sounds feasible no? Pad knockback doesn't necessarily have to be warped discs.


No it isn't feasable. All discs suffer from uneven wear, you actually need it to a small degree to stop the pads binding on the disc but any uneven wear/warpage large enough to knock the piston back far enough to require more than one pull on the lever would be felt while riding.



Ok, I'll bite. To what degree do Brembo machine in this uneven wear on brand new discs?
I did also state that warped discs might not be the only cause.

sickpup wrote:

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Also ABS bleeding is a bitch. There's a function in TuneECU to trigger an ABS bleed.


No it isn't, excusing Harleys which have a normally closed system as far as I am aware every other manufacturer uses a normally open system so bleeding should be no different to on a normal system.

The TuneECU setting is to flush the ABS pump.


Flushes out what exactly?
https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/abs-bleeding-breaks.14130/

sickpup wrote:

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
IIRC blue brake fluid was phased out/ banned a while back as its not DOT4.


The blue brake fluid was banned in the USA at least because the blue colouring was carcinogenic but a quick google says it is still available here and is indeed DOT4 under the name ATE TYP200


Not just US. I believe if you can get it, it's old stock. Probably marked not for road use too.

"Description
In our opinion, this is the best brake fluid on the market! This product has superceded the old racing blue brake fluid ATE TYPE 200 Amber Brake Fluid is designed to excel within the extreme demands made on a race vehicle or by high performance drivers and exceeds all DOT4 standards."
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Ok, I'll bite. To what degree do Brembo machine in this uneven wear on brand new discs?
I did also state that warped discs might not be the only cause.

Flushes out what exactly?
https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/abs-bleeding-breaks.14130/

Not just US. I believe if you can get it, it's old stock. Probably marked not for road use too.


In order.

I have no idea.

Brake fluid. Your link actually states that the brakes can be bled without the software. Think of it this way when the bike is switched off the brakes still work. Obviously on a Harley the brakes never work Wink

The blue stuff is/was only non-compliant to DOT standards due to the dye, it was still DOT 4.
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