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| Gazz |
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Gazz
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| Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
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Riejufixing
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 Posted: 23:27 - 08 May 2020  Post subject: |
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He wants plate, possibly pollished 2P, but he'll have to say what. Mind you, only £38 + post from a fireplace shop seems to show it's just sheet. |
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
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| Posted: 23:30 - 08 May 2020 Post subject: |
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Or have you tried calling your local steel stockholders?
I'm always surprised how tolerant my local one is of selling me relatively short bits of random metal and by how cheap it was.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| Pete. |
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Pete.
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| Posted: 23:37 - 08 May 2020 Post subject: |
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He says he wants plate but for that price it must be sheet.
I'd start by looking for local laser cutters then give them a call. Some will do cash jobs for simple parts.
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Bhud
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| Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing
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| c_dug |
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c_dug
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
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| Posted: 13:11 - 09 May 2020 Post subject: |
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| Riejufixing wrote: | [ no RSJ pieces, which I would have liket to have a bit of to hammer things on. |
Be better with a small, solid steel block. I'm pissing about with a bit of forging and you don't need a big one but the more mass you have in it, the better for rebound purposes (forges both sides at once instead of just the side you're hammering). I tried with a big piece of steel plate mounted on a wooden block and it's rubbish.
If you look at the flat area of even a large anvil, it's usually only 4 or 5" across so unless you are working huge pieces of steel, you don't need a large footprint.
I bought a 4x4x4" steel billet offcut off ebay for under £30 delivered. Just need to round the edges off a little, mount it to a base (a log) and I have a really functional striking block. No horn but you don't absolutely need one, you can forge stuff like that off the edge of the block, I may radius one edge for this purpose.
From reading round, this will be more effective than a cheap small anvil or a bit of railway track/RSJ because it has a lot of centered mass under where you are striking. The hammer will rebound when struck.
The one thing it's missing for it to be a proper striking block is a hole for tools/drifting.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| Gazz |
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Gazz
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Riejufixing
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Riejufixing
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| Posted: 13:59 - 09 May 2020 Post subject: |
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| Gazz wrote: | Looking for something around 5mm thick. It's for removing the ash tray at the bottom, to prevent that section of hearth being scratched. I have one at the moment which has the odd scratch on it but I don't know if I am cheaper just to buy a new one instead of buying metal polishes, etc. I currently don't have any metal polishing stuff. |
5 mil!! If the one from the fireplace shop is 5mm, that seems a good deal! I would enquire of a local steel stockholder or fabricator if not.
Thought: If what you have now has the odd scratch on it, won't a new one end up looking exactly the same? You won't easily polish out scratches on this stuff, and if you have experience of having a new, shiny stainless steel kitchen sink, you will know that when they have been used for a month, they look terrible, but after a year, they're uniformly "re-finished" and look OK. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 41 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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) and folding it, but real RSJs are hard to find, and commonly UBs are now referred to as RSJs which they are not, and UBs are 
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